AF on D3/D700 vs. D90 -- does this justify buying FX camera?

[bikealps]

<p>How much better is the AF system on a pro D3/D700 vs. a consumer D90? Does the D3 or D700 track moving objects better?<br>

Last weekend I was at a bicycle race and was shooting alongside a newspaper photographer who had a D3 and a 70-200/80-200 f2.8. His images were consistently tack sharp. Mine varied. I was using a D90 + 70-300 f4.5-5.6 EDIF AF-S VR.<br>

He explained two techniques he uses:</p>

<ol>

<li>He uses a button on the back (either AF-ON or AF-L/AE-L) to focus with one finger and shoots with the other. I just press down the shutter halfway and then shoot. He claims my D90 can do the same thing with the AE-L/AF-L) button, but I didn't really understand why this is an advantage.</li>

<li>He uses the AF sensor selector to pick focus zones. My camera has this, too.</li>

</ol>

<p>dpreview.com claims D3, D3S, and D700 have MultiCAM 3500 FX and D90 has MultiCAM1000. I've heard the D3 automatically tracks the closest moving object and the D90 does not. Is this true?<br>

So, is there an appreciable difference here? Do any of you shoot bicycle races? Have you noticed a difference?<br>

and is there any real difference in lenses? I care about AF speed and accuracy. Does the 70/80-200 f2.8 focus faster than my 70-300 f4.5-5.6? Does the 70-200 VR II $2400 focus faster than the 80-200 $1100 lens? Is my 1993 300mm f4 EDIF AF fast enough if I had a faster AF in the camera? (Generally, 300mm is too long for a bike race, especially in DX.)<br>

I had really been planning to wait until 2011 (D4 intro? maybe I win the lotto first!) to justify a FX camera.<br>

Thanks to everybody for your help!<br>

Allan</p>

[Matt Laur]

<p>You might want to simply look at a D300 (or D300S). Same AF module as the D3/D700, and the 51 AF points actually cover the frame <em>better</em> than on those more expensive bodies. If you're out in good light, you don't really need the stop-or-so better high ISO behavior on the FX bodies, and if you stick with DX, you can maintain the lens reach you're used to.<br /><br />Yes, the 70-200 is very nimble when it comes to AF speed. If you stick with the DX format, though (via the D300), you can stick with the 70-200/2.8 verion I, which you should be able to find for a lot less $ than its newer version. Is the 70-200 better than the 80-200? I'm going to say yes, because you can use it (with its VR) in a lot of other shooting circumstances.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Technique and the lens are major factors. I was very impressed with the ability of the D90 and slowpoke variable aperture 55-200 VR to track customers walking around in a local camera shop, with lighting around EV 6 to EV 8. I'd feel comfortable using it for some PJ assignments with a faster lens and the appropriate AF settings. But for sports or serious action photography, naturally a higher end dSLR, DX or FX, will have a significant advantage.</p>

<p>But you can't fairly compare the D90 with a slowpoke variable aperture zoom against a higher end dSLR with an f/2.8 lens. It's not a reasonable contest, even in good lighting. And chances are the PJ has much more experience with action oriented photography. Technique is just as important as the equipment.</p>

[kevin_delson]

<blockquote>

<p>D3, D3S, and D700 have MultiCAM 3500</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>As does the D-300 and D-300s. And yes, It makes a difference.</p>

<p>My specialty is not sports photography, but like many, it's fun when you get some special access.<br>

I own both the D-300 & the D3. I've shot some fast moving sports with both..soccer..football..triathalon events..Long story short?..No difference that I can detect when the same lens occupies both cameras.</p>

<p>In some ways, the D-300 is better suited when set to 21 point C-AF as more focus points occupy a greater percentage of the view finder. I rarely use 51 point, so I reserve comment on that one.</p>

<p>I see no reason why you can't achieve excellent results with the equip you currently have.<br>

The 3500 focus system does do a lot of the heavy lifting for many, but by bettering your technique with a (Lock & Load) approach, you too will see great results...These results were achieved long before AF was born.</p>

[breogan_gomez]

<p>Something you have to keep in mind is that the apperture of the lens matters a lot. Your lens, when wide open, is close to f/5.6 which is the minimun apperture where the AF module can give good results. However the 70-200m has a maximun apperture of f/2.8 which means that 4 times more light is geting into the AF module for focus evaluation. My guess is that a 80-200 f/2.8 will help the AF module to work better but I can not not comment on how good it may be on a sunny day.</p>

<p>One thing you can try is to set your AF mode to AF-C (continous) so the camera will continously reevaluate the focus. And then set the priority to focus so your camera will not fire unless the picture is in focus. I use this with my daughter and works, and this kids can really put the AF module to test! ;P</p>

[Matthew Brennan]

<p><strong>D300</strong> & D700 share the same auto focus servo mechanism- I've used both bodies, very pleasing AF pickup and tracking, esp. with the AF-S Nikkors.</p>

[elliot1]

<p>Achieving accurate AF with any camera is a matter of in-camera settings and technique. While there is no doubt that there are faster/better AF systems that the one in the D90, it does not mean that the D90 cannot AF fast enough for your needs. You just need to set your camera up properly (settings) and use it properly for the application you are shooting.</p>

<p>Technique one is a matter of personal preference and does not have any affect on the camera's AF speed. As far as technique two, I would disregard this and only use your camera's center AF point as it is the fast focusing and most accurate in your camera.</p>

<p>In good lighting, there is really very little a D90 can't do compared to cameras with more advanced AF modules. AA faster focusing lens will help but I would master your setup first to see if you even need to upgrade.</p>

[waltflanagan]

<p>The way you activate AF is a personal preference. I use AF-ON or AF-L/AE-L to activate the AF. I have set the shutter release to not try to AF. </p>

<p>The other key setting is the shutter release mode. I forget the exact option names but on focus release the shutter will not fire until the camera thinks the image is in focus. I have it changed to always fire the shutter when I press the shutter button whether the image is in focus or not. During an action burst you may get some out of focus images but the camera won't pause because it is trying to focus. </p>

<p>I find this setup is also useful when shooting something relatively static and using VR. I can focus manually and then half press the shutter to active VR but not have to worry about it refocusing. I could of course use the AF-L button or the AF-L button on some lenses like the 70-200 but that's more buttons to push at the same time.</p>

<p>Again, it's all a personal preference, I find this works for me. </p>

[john caetano photos]

<p>I have no problems with the AF speed on my D90, it's super fast. But sorry can't compare to others...</p>

[fernando_scherer]

<p>for movement, use always af-c. so, disable the focus delay, (if d90 has it) so the body doesnt stop for the defined time to refocus. on off, it keeps correcting. so when you fire it, the system should have aqquired a good focus. also, put on single point af, the center one. because it is the most accurate (as others said.). but with this, you cant reframe things, making all subjects on center. that is when the af-l button comes in.. you hold it and the af will stop what it was doing, so you can reframe. of course if the subject is comming toward you, this will make picture blurred, so you better not use, and just reframe in pp. i have a d300 and 70-300vr(same as yours).. i noted it makes good results, but not so many keepers as a pro lens should. of course it costs 1/4 of one. if you want panning, you can use af-d still, because it locks on, and subject moves horizontaly, not needing so much focus adjustments.. and its easier because you dont need to push so many buttons.. also if trying to follow something that goes behind things, you may wanna keep your hand close to the focus ring, so you can give a little help to af.<br>

remember, people have done wonderfull pictures of races and whatever well before af came.. just everything needs a proper technique.</p>

<p>good luck.</p>

[bikealps]

<p>ok, sounds like there are three separate issues here:</p>

<ol>

<li>camera -- MultiCam3500 on D3/D700 may be better than MultiCAM 1000 on my D90. D300 also has MultiCAM3500, but (according to one unmentionable website) may not have enough CPU power to make decisions fast enough</li>

<li>lens -- f2.8 lenses give more info to AF sensor (not sure I understand the science of this, but seems to be pretty well accepted) -- my f5.6 lens is probably much slower -- how much difference is there between a screw drive lens (like the $1100 80-200 f2.8 or my 300 f4) and a modern SWM lens (like the 70-200 f2.8 VRII)?</li>

<li>pilot (me) -- I've photographed a lot of bike races and had good results in full frame (28mm lying down in the gutter in 1993, hyperfocal distance, stopped down, FujiChrome 100), sitting on the back of a Ninja motorcycle (in 1993, had to use AF because left arm is required to hang on to driver and helmet restricts view through camera), using a Minolta x700 with Sigma 70-210 f3.8 zoom (I could focus manually when I was a kid and see the sand grains on the riders faces), and using 12-24mm DX lens (2009, cyclocross in Belgium), but never had much luck with longer (traditional roadrace approach) lenses (105mm micro in 1993, I've heard that micros are slow, dumb choice for action, and 8008s may not have been the world's best AF system) and now mixed results with 70-300mm f4.5-5.6 G (last weekend).</li>

</ol>

<p>Clearly the right approach is a faster lens, like a 70/80-200 zoom. If f2.8 makes a big differnece with the AF sensor, I'll buy a new lens. How much difference does SWM vs. screw drive make? and I can try out some different AF techniques. I could probably sell my 300 mm f4 and 70-300 f4.5-5.6 G and get enough cash for a proper 70-200 f2.8 lens. The 300mm f4 lens is generally too long for bike racing anyway. Pity, it is such a beautiful piece of metal and glass. Maybe I should rent a D3 for the weekend and see how it performs vs. my D90. any thoughts?</p>