Flash Meter

[tara_behmer]

<p>I am fairly new to the photography world and have just purchased the Promaster SystemPro Advanced 3-Head Studio Flash Kit. I'm starting to do more indoor portraits and would like some suggestions on if I should purchase a flash meter? Do these meters actually trigger the lights or just set your camera to the most appropriate settings?<br>

Thank you for the help!!</p>

 

[reflectedglory]

<p>Tara,<br>

as a rule, flash meters do not trigger the lights - they just measure the incident light when you trigger them yourself.<br>

If you have a DSLR, you probably won't benefit too much from a flash meter as you can see your results instantaneously. I own one, but rarely use it these days.<br>

As long as you are in the habit of checking the histogram on the camera and train yourself to be sensitive to the relative light levels within the shot you should be fine.<br>

Dave</p>

[Spearhead]

<p>Plenty of flash meters can trigger lights - it's a useful function to look for in a flash meter. At least one (Sekonic L-358) can also trigger wirelessly instead of with a PC connection using an attachment.</p>

<p>Whether or not you need a flash meter depends on how you shoot, e.g., are you setting up the lights once and leaving them that way) and what your setup is. I stopped using a flash meter when I started shooting tethered to a computer - I can get far more out of doing measurements on the screen.</p>

[tara_behmer]

<p>I am setting up my lights once and leaving them there. I just need something to trigger my studio lights. Right now I am currently using my 580EX flash to do this, but I would like to just shoot in Manual mode and disable my flash. What would you recommend doing? If I don't need to purchase a flash meter, I would rather not. </p>

<h1><br /></h1>

[Spearhead]

<p>Ah, you can't use a flash meter as a trigger for the camera on the lights. What you can do is either use a PC cable or get a wireless system. Given that the system is inert, you should be fine with one of the inexpensive wireless flash triggers that you can find on eBay. Just search for "wireless flash trigger" there. You don't need a lot of channels unless you're going to use it on location.</p>

[tara_behmer]

<p>It looks like a flash trigger was supposed to be included with my lights and it was not, so that's where I was getting confused. I just could not figure out how to trigger the lights! They are sending one to me now, so I should be set. Thank you for your help! I currently have 2 flashes with umbrellas and a reflector disk, would you recommend a back light or anything with my setup?<br mce_bogus="1"></p>

[steve_levine]

<p>When you use a flash meter to trigger lights, it is independent of the camera. It is only for measuring your light's intensities. What you need is either a sync cord to run from the camera's sync socket. To the lights, or a radio slave system to do this wireless. I assume your lights must have built in optical slaves? Since you mention using the camera's flash to trigger your lights. You could continue doing this, if it isn't to inconvenient?</p>

<p>Lights that are to be placed once and always used in that position. Can be "balanced" for various ratios of light by using a tape measure. Just learn the inverse square law, and remember that halving or doubling the distance of a light equals 1 f stop.</p>

<p>Google "Joe Zeltsman" portrait lessons online. he explains basic classic portraiture. His lessons cover lighting, and placement of lights etc. Also right here at PN in the LEARNING tab there are studio tutorials on lighting.</p>

[Alan Marcus]

<p >Light placement and the intensity differences between fixtures are the keys to the kingdom. The classic set-up is a three light lash-up. One lamp is placed high and generally off to the side to simulate afternoon sun. This lamp called the "main" or "key". You place it to enhance your subject. </p>

<p >Enhancement is the goal. Long nose, adjusts so the nose shadow is short. Short nose, lengthen the nose shadow. Oval face, lamp is placed more frontal. Round face, lamp is more to the side to place one cheek in shadow.</p>

<p >The classic look creates an illusion of one light source. This natural look is a hand-me-down from the grand masters oil on canvas. If portraiture is your game, you need to study art portraiture because replicating this look sells best and wins contests. Do not take me wrong, you are free to chase your dream any way you want, what I am talking about is portraiture that puts a jingle in your pocket.</p>

<p >The one light illusion is difficult because the human eye has enormous dynamic range. Film and digital fall short in this department. What happens is the shadows go dark and detail in the shadows is lost. The resulting image is too contrasty. </p>

<p >We supplement the main light with a "fill" lamp or reflectors. The idea is to illuminate the shadows but not eliminate them. If a fill is used it is best to place it so it softens shadows from the camera's viewpoint. Fill placement is at lens height close to an imaginary line, camera to subject. </p>

<p >To preserve the one lamp illusion the fill is adjusted subordinate to the main. If they are equal, the one lamp illusion is lost and the image will be flat and lackluster. The classic look is, fill 50% of main at subject plane. To accomplish we measure with a meter. We measure with only the main on, and then we measure again with only the fill on. </p>

<p >We can use distant, math, trial-and-error, or estimate but the meter is best and affords repeatability. After this technique is mastered, make the effort to try reducing the power of the fill even more and gain a more contrasty image. </p>

<p >Main and fill equal = 2:1 lighting that is flat and uninteresting.</p>

<p >Fill 50% (1 f/stop ) subordinate as compared to the main = 3:1 lighting "bread-and-butter" lighting.</p>

<p >Fill 25% (2 f/stops) subordinate as compared to the main = 5:1 lighting is somewhat contrasty.</p>

<p >Fill 12 1/2% (3 f/stops) subordinate as compared to the main = 9:1 theatrical lighting. </p>

<p >The third lamp is used to illuminate the background. </p>

<p >No meter - this all becomes difficult - not impossible and likely tricky to repeat with accuracy. </p>

[kevin_delson]

<blockquote>

<p>I'm starting to do more indoor portraits</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Yes...get a flash meter. It need not be overly expensive.<br>

Since you are doing more portraits and it also appears you do not have a lot of experience, a flash meter will prove it's worth in short order.</p>

<p>Like Jeff, I no longer/rarely use a flash meter since I've done my setups a gazillion times and know my strobes well. In other words, if I set one of my strobes at a power level of (II), I know what f/stop this= at (X) feet. You will too after you shoot a few thousand times.</p>

<p>A flash meter will teach you many things such as:</p>

<p>f/stop with a 30" umbrella at 10 feet..15 feet..<br>

A 40" umbrella at 25 feet etc...<br>

Setting up various ratios will be far easier for you w/ a meter.</p>

<p>While meters capable of triggering strobes are a great convenience, they are not mandatory.</p>

<p> </p>