jkaufman Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 <p>Greetings All,<br> I typically eschew shooting nature without a tripod. However, there are situations in which a tripod is either remarkably impractical or simply forbidden. For example, I made the shot below handheld while recently visiting the "Domes" in Milwaukee. Although I am sufficiently pleased with the shot, it would undoubtedly have been crisper had I been able to use a tripod. What are your suggestions for keeping handheld shots as sharp as possible?</p> <p>Thanks,<br> Jason<br> <b>Signature URL removed. Not allowed per photo.net Terms of Use</b>.</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
images_in_light_north_west Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 <p>Image stabilization, fast shutter speed, maybe higher ISO's, wide apertures, steady hand, if its landscape not much will help, when the light is good its low in the sky and iso 100k still wont cut it.<br> Ross</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric merrill Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 <p>I set my camera to continuous shooting and squeeze off three or four shots. Out of 4 shots, chances are the 2nd and 3rd will have slightly less movement caused by pushing the shutter button. </p> <p>Don't jab at the shutter button. Gently roll your finger. Practice squeezing the trigger so that you can't visibly see your finger move.</p> <p>Brace your camera against something.</p> <p>Brace yourself against something.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkaufman Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 <p>Gentlemen,</p> <p>Thank you for the suggestions, especially for Eric's recommendation to shoot handheld on rapid-shot.</p> <p>Regards,<br> Jason</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcstep Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 <p>If you continuous shot and you're third shot is steady, but the first is not, then you're shaking the camera when you release the shutter. Try rolling your index finger onto the shutter. Let your focus point show on the screen and practice shooting with the AF point on a small subject and try to hold it there as you practice releasing the shutter. With a little practice you want need to shoot bursts.</p> <p>Of course, IS is wonderful at helping out in these situations.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stemked Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 <p>Ever heard of a string tripod? It is basically a string that you attach to the mount screw. The other end has a loop that you can step into, It is said to give you another stop or two.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pictureted Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 <p>I try putting my elbows firmly against my chest, left hand under lens, right finger squeezes the shutter. If you can control your breathing that also helps. Shooting a camera or a gun requires the same attention to detail. I try to remember and employ the same discipline the army made me use.</p> <p>I also will tend to shoot slightly shorter focal length lenses since they magnify vibration less, plus they tend to be lighter, faster and easier to shoot.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcstep Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 <p>Of course, shooting shorter lenses will limit your subjects severely.</p> <p>I shoot a lot of wildlife, so I see the impact of a long lens on handheld shots quite clearly. Bracing oneself is something not mentioned so far. If you can lean agaist a tree or wall it's very helpful. With a long lens you can see any movement in the viewfinder; therefore, practicing with a long lens will improve you technique with all you lenses.</p> <p>Still, IS is an incredible aid. Spring for the extra money whenever it's an option.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary_c4 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 <p>I recently starting using a power pack on a 50d, never tried one before and can say it really helps with creating a steady platform</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock-Photos Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 <p>1.) Bean-bag camera support, 2.) hold breath while releasing shutter, 3.) lean against a firm object, tree or fence etc.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mart_e Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 <blockquote> <p>1.) Bean-bag camera support, 2.) hold breath while releasing shutter, 3.) lean against a firm object, tree or fence etc.</p> </blockquote> <p>It's worth experimenting on what works best for you regarding breathing. I find a slow gentle exhale as I squeeze a few shots off works best (for some reason it always feels as though I'm trembling slightly when holding my breath - even for a very short period of time).</p> <p>I also find kneeling sometimes helps - it reduces the height and therefore the amount of 'sway' - best is kneeling and leaning against a firm object.</p> <p>Martin</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_thompson Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 <p>Eric has been helping me get sharper pictures and I found his suggestion to roll your finger took a little time and practice until I thought of the movement similar to the one used in finger printing. That helped my a good deal.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcstep Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 <p>Breath control requires practice, but is worth a bit of effort. As a wind musician (trumpet), I've done a lot of work in this area. First, don't breath in and then hold your breath with your lungs pressurized, as this actually adds tension. Instead, take a breath in and then "release" it (don't push it out, but let your rib cage do it's natural thing, which is to seek it's resting position), holding your breath when the pressure is neutral. Your lungs will be newly oxiginated and you won't be stressing your diaphram by either having your lungs in positive or negative pressure.</p> <p>In our normal breathing, as we sit at our desk or watch TV, the lungs are constantly going between light positive pressurization to light negative pressurization. This is natural and comfortable. We want to momentarily stop breathing without adding stress.<br> There's no need to hold your breath long. Take this breath right as you prepare to shoot, not seconds before. After the shot (or multi-shot burst) then breath naturally again. With just a little practice, this get pretty natural. Many people over pressurize their lungs, which will increase stress and increase the likelyhood of rushing, tensing or shaking.</p> <p>Speaking of breath control, aren't the winter olympic bi-athletes amazing? They sky like crazy and then hit tiny targets with rifles. It takes amazing control. It is a sport that mimics the real life skills required of a solder at war.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chad_goldman Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 <p>Try not to set your elbows on your knees, too wobbly. Rest them instead on the meat of your thighs. that is if your crouched down.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangoldman Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 <p>keep your elbows in, especially your left one. Having your arms out like wings is not conducive to a steady platform... I support the whole weight of a telephoto rig on my left arm, under the balance point of the lens. My right hand is merely to aim a little and to push the button. As stated, dont mash down on the button, keep it smooth. I sometimes like to keep both of my eyes open, once i've focused, as i think that helps to stead myself as well. As far breathing, most of what i've heard and experienced has taught me to not hold my breath, but to slowly exhale instead.</p> <p>I don't have the luxury of a multiftame burst or IS half of the time (IS none of the time, actually) because i shoot film a lot of the time, so i try to make the best of my technique and often use a monopod with my 400mm F4.5 lens.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_bedore Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 <p>One option to using a tripod is to brace the camera aganst some solid obect which is there anyway. You can simply hold the camera against a railing, tree, etc. If you do this regularly, and you find this keeps your fingers away form some control, you can improvise a bracket to brace against. For example, take a 1/4-20 bolt a few inches long, and a wingnut. Thread the bolt loosly into the tripod threaded hole on the camera, and tighten it with the wingnut. (Don't tighten the bolt alone into the threaded hole, if you really torque it down, you might damage the bottom of the hole.) Now you can brace the camera on top of a wall and still get your fingers around it. Want to brace against something to the side of the camera? Drill a 1/4 inch hole in a flat stick several inches long, and attach it to the camera with the screw and wingnut discussed above. Now you can brace against the side of a tree, etc.<br> I sometimes use the 2 second timer to eliminate any shake resulting from my pressing the shutter button.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangoldman Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 <p>one thing i've also noticed happening is shaking the camera during the exposure because i took it down from my eye too soon... follow through with the shot, dont move the camera till you can see the image in the vewfinder again...</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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