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How would you spend $6,000 in medium format


marco_v1

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<p>What'cha gonna use this stuff for?</p>

<p>Some cameras are better suited for certain types of photography.</p>

<p>I love Mamiya TLR cameras! I've got several of them. I'm using a C3 today. They have interchangeable lenses, great optics, great quality camera bodies.</p>

<p>I just bought a Mamiya C33 from KEH for $120.00, plus 9 bucks for freight.</p>

<p>Wonderful machines!</p>

<p>Not very suited to action or photojournalistic photography. <br /> And if they don't work out for you, they are heavy and make excellent doorstops.<br /> HA! Smiles! Just kidding.<br /> Check out Mamiya TLR's!<br /> Cheap & wonderful.</p>

<p> </p>

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If I ran the zoo...

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$2K for a dedicated scanner, probably the Nikon. (For another $1, you can probably find a used Imacon.)

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$2K (+) for a 6X17 kit.

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That leaves a little less than $2K, which will buy damn near any 6X6 ~ 6X9 system you like. Or you can buy one of each at ~1K each.

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Spend a few hundred for developing equipment. If you intend to actually USE any of your toys, at-home developing will save you plenty.

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The fact that you don't know what you want, much less need, does worry me a little. All this smacks of the "Should I upgrade?!" anxiety the Pixel Peepers and Gear Dweebs are famous for. Before blowing umpteen grand, you really should get some hands-on time with several systems.

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<p>Do like I did, get a mint Mamiya 645 AFDII with 80mm lens and back for about $1500 U.S. It is a wonderful camera to shoot with and handles much like a large 35mm camera. The optics are incredibly sharp. Then add a few lenses (used) like the 35mm or 45mm for wide, the 120 f/4 for macro (extension tubes are great with the 80mm although a bit limiting as far as distance from subject goes), and maybe the 105-210 zoom for tele. You may still have enough left over to buy a Nikon Coolscan 9000 for scanning color film, but I definitely recommend darkroom printing for black and white, it's too fun to ignore if you are shooting film to begin with.</p>
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<p>Why not go digital? <br>

Last year I bought a mint Mamiya AFDII with a ZD back and the following: 35/3.5, 45/2.8, 55/2.8, 80/2.8, and 150/3.5, 3 extension tubes, 5 batteries, and a cable release. I got the entire set for $7,000, and that price has no doubt dropped since then.<br>

You could also get a Mamiya AFD with a Kodak DCS PRo back 645M. It's a bit slower in operation than the ZD back, but the output is as close to velvia as I have every seen from a digital camera. When I post images to various photo forums many people assume they are medium format film images, and not digital. The Kodak backs for Mamiya bodies are a bit hard to find, but an AFD with digital back and 80mm lens set can usually be found in the $2,500 - $3,000 range. That leaves a lot of money left pover for travel, AND you won't spend any time scanning. </p>

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<p>Why not go digital? <br>

Last year I bought a mint Mamiya AFDII with a ZD back and the following: 35/3.5, 45/2.8, 55/2.8, 80/2.8, and 150/3.5, 3 extension tubes, 5 batteries, and a cable release. I got the entire set for $7,000, and that price has no doubt dropped since then.<br>

You could also get a Mamiya AFD with a Kodak DCS PRo back 645M. It's a bit slower in operation than the ZD back, but the output is as close to velvia as I have every seen from a digital camera. When I post images to various photo forums many people assume they are medium format film images, and not digital. The Kodak backs for Mamiya bodies are a bit hard to find, but an AFD with digital back and 80mm lens set can usually be found in the $2,500 - $3,000 range. That leaves a lot of money left pover for travel, AND you won't spend any time scanning. </p><div>00VjyU-219447584.jpg.b003ba23495ba95901c5bb6b0debd688.jpg</div>

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<p>I like the square format and would be tempted to spend your dollars on a Hasselblad 503 and a used CFV 16 digital back for it. Or use the $6000. as a down payment on the CFV 39 back. Jeff L has a nice square image posted from his Mamiya digital, which could be a very nice way to go as well. If you have the time, rent some of what you think that you might like before you buy.</p>
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<p>these are my top picks. i would at least get one rangefinder and one slr.</p>

<p>rangefinder:</p>

<ul>

<li>fuji gw690iii or gsw690iii</li>

<li>fuji gf670</li>

<li>mamiya 7ii</li>

<li>bronica rf645</li>

<li>fuji ga645i</li>

</ul>

<p>slr:</p>

<ul>

<li>pentax 67</li>

<li>mamiya rz67 pro ii</li>

<li>hasselblad 501cm</li>

<li>rollei 6001 or 6008</li>

<li>hasselblad h1 or h2 of fuji gx645af</li>

<li>contax 645</li>

<li>pentax 645nii</li>

</ul>

<p>tlr:</p>

<ul>

<li>rolleiflex 2.8f or 3.5f or rolleiwide or tele-rollei</li>

</ul>

<p>viewfinder:</p>

<ul>

<li>hasselblad swc</li>

<li>alpa 12</li>

</ul>

<p>panoramic:</p>

<ul>

<li>fuji gx617</li>

<li>linhof technorama</li>

<li>ebony 6x17</li>

</ul>

<p>technical:</p>

<ul>

<li>linhof super technika 6x9</li>

<li>linhof technika 70</li>

<li>horseman vh</li>

<li>plaubel 69w proshift</li>

</ul>

<p>view:</p>

<ul>

<li>arca swiss 6x9</li>

<li>toyo 23gx</li>

<li>linhof technikardan 23s</li>

<li>linhof m679</li>

<li>ebony 6x9</li>

</ul>

<p>of course, that's almost everything out there...</p>

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<p>Buy a good scanner and an inexpensive MF camera and a few lenses to test the waters. The Bronica ETRSi (or a Bronica SQ if you like square) is very good, and inexpensive. It's small and light enough to carry about, and the leaf shutter lenses sync at all speeds. Gain some experience with it and then decide if you need something else.</p>
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<p>Marco, the Contax is a good choice if you can squeeze it in at that budget. The Zeiss 120/4 Macro is second to none including with super high resolution digital backs ... but that lens is not inexpensive. The other (hard to find) great lens is the Zeiss/Contax 55/3.5 ... one of the hidden secrets of that system IMO. For film look for the vacuum film back which sucks the film flat to the pressure plate to mitigate the film curl issue. </p>

<p>Contax 645 takes most every common digital back out there ... but IMO the best is the Phase One which looks like it was designed specifically for the C645 and integrates the battery with-in the back so it doesn't hang off the bottom like with Leaf, Hasselblad CFs, and Kodak Probacks. A Phase One P25 can easily be had for well under $10K ... and unlike a square sensor back provides good WA coverage with a scant 1.1X lens factor rather than a 1.5X like a ProBack 645C does. </p>

<p>The Contax 645 isn't state of the art AF, but it's faster AF than a Hassey V ... LOL!</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Lots to be said for spending about a third of this on actual gear...a third on materials...a third on travel/getting to locations - but these suggestions, no matter how well meaning, may well be moot - as you did not mention if this 6K is your total budget available for photography....or just for the hardware side of photography. </p>

<p>If 6K is indeed your total budget for everything photo-related, and if you sink all of this into equipment, then just be aware of the dangers of being "all dressed up, and noplace to go." </p>

<p>That said...you also need to think about output. In other words, are you thinking digital or analogue...or both? Color or black and white..or both? </p>

<p>If I had 6K which I absolutely had to spend on one MF system (camera gear only), prioritizing film use (got to assume this at 6K, unless you want a scanner) - with your listed requirements, then I'd go with a Hasselblad 501CM, plus 50mm CF-FLE, 80mm CF, 120mm CF, and 180mm CF lenses... waist level and PME-90 (metered) prism, 32mm extension tube, two A-12 backs plus 645 frame/mask set for the occasional 645 photo with an A-12 back - and a photo gadget bag and/or backpack. And if you're a smart shopper, you should still have enough left over for a Gitzo carbon fiber tripod with a nice magnesium head, and a few filters. </p>

<p>If you want to go the film/scanner route...you can subtract the 180 lens and PME-90 finder from the above, and have enough for a Nikon 9000 series scanner. But then this would assume that you have other necessary tools of output - like a computer/software/printer setup capable of making the most of your investment in camera hardware. So my parting words would be to be very careful to identify potential weak links in your total imaging system...and consider how you can achieve the appropriate component balance to realize a maximum return from all the bits (and perhaps bytes) and pieces. </p>

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  • 3 weeks later...

<p>I shot this pic to illustrate my response to a different post in the forum, but it fits here as well. I have an extensive 35mm tool set on hand, both film and digital. I have used Hasselblad gear since the late 60's (lucky kid who's Mom was working for Paillard back then). I still use 6x6 gear from time to time when weight is a major factor, but for me, the ultimate in medium format drool factor and flexibility is the RZ67 series. I don't care for the RB so much as it can't handle RZ lenses and updated accessories, while the RZ can do it all. The polycarbonate side panels also save a half pound of weight at no cost in durability, and having the film advance and shutter cocking take place with a single lever stroke, as opposed to "press this, wind that" makes the RZ the choice for me.</p>

<p>That said, the RB is still an awesome 6x7 camera. Anyway, the RZ67 series is fully modern, in current production as a minor update to accept new Maniya digital backs, has very reliable up to date film backs, finders, and a full suite of other accessories, including several digital backs for older RZ cameras available. Aside from needing to match digital backs to series vintage, all versions of the RZ67 series accept the latest versions of lenses and all system accessories without modification or adapters. RZ lenses are optical jewels, and stand tall compared to any other major system lenses on the market, including Hasselblad.</p>

<p>The big difference is that Mamiya RB/RZ had such tremendous market penetration among Pro photo users over the years that even lenses that are in current production, and sold for insane prices new can be purchased used for a song and a dance.</p>

<p>This is my pick for a well rounded starting kit in 6x7 film. The RZ67 body, waist level finder with the "checker pattern" focusing screen, a pair of 120 "II" series film backs (you can add 6x6, 6x4.5, 8x8 image on 4"x5" sheet film packs, Polaroid, and other backs later). A neck strap really makes a world of difference in handling.</p>

<p>The lenses I picked for a basic kit are the 110mm f/2.8 W (standard lens), 65mm f/4 L-A wide angle floating element lens (32mm equiv in 35mm SLR format), and the 180mm f/4.5 W-N mid tele lens. They are all current production "best in class" lenses that can be found used in perfect condition for shockingly low prices. Teamed up with the focusing system on the RB/RZ cameras, they also cover most needs from macro to landscape, to portrait of any style, and beyond. Don't worry though. Over time, I found a "need" for a couple of APO tele lenses, an ultra-wide, a 1.4x tele-converter, and I'm sure more "needs" will pop up :).</p>

<p>There are various grips, motor drives, a handfull of finders, including AE prism finders, other focusing screens, electronic triggers, and you name what else available in the syatem, but the layout pictured below will get you well on the way, and if you shop smart, you can put it all together with EX grade components from a place like KEH for under $1500. That leaves plenty to spare for a proper tripod, a high end film scanner, film, lens hoods, another lens, extension tubes, etc.<br />Good luck! <br /><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2791/4405231235_6594a5800a_b.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="768" /></p>

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