heaver Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 <p>I'm taking photos and scanning them in with me Epson V700, and using Silverfast Ai Studio. <br>Scanning my negs in 64Bit HDRi and was wondering if any one had some advise on non-destructive editing techniques for inverting the negative, sharpening and colour corrections?<br>I know you can purchase aditional plugins for PShop, but which ones work best?<br>I also know that PShop also has some automatice functions, but I've read that these can be quite distructive.<br>Any advise please?</p><p>Regards<br>Mark</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heaver Posted February 5, 2010 Author Share Posted February 5, 2010 <p>Just a note to add, Silverfast Negfix does not operate in HDRi mode, hense why I'm looking at the best method for editing.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benny_spinoza Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 <p>I'm a bit confused by your last post. The SilverFast Negafix tool is available on raw scans. Once the 64Bit HDRi raw scan is made with SilverFast Ai, you then just open it up with HDR Studio. All of your usual tools are now available. Here is some advice: Even though you are scanning negatives, create an icc profile for a IT8 slide target. Then this profile is used as an input profile for your raw scans. When processing your raw scans using Studio, make sure you use your transparency icc profile as the input profile. I mention this because I've discovered that Vista screws things up, but when using MAC OS, I realized that the IT8 generated icc profile is the correct one to use. Using Adobe or some other device independent profile will give inaccurate colors.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karl_fermedfor Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 <p>SOT, analog gain is undestructive. IDK if your scanner supports it, but the best way to avoid noise in the scan is to get the proper level of scan "exposure" to start.<br> Think of it like timing an optical print on an enlarger (B&W). You could tone or bleach density in or out, but, in all but the most extreme cases, it was best to just get the density right to begin with.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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