PME 90 Metered Finder Or Hand Held Meter

[non1]

<p>Which readings could be better the one out of the PME 90 Finder of a hand held meter, would the PME 90 only give spot metering or it could also give partial readings ?</p>

<p>Wound it be better to use a spot hand meter for landscape ?</p>

<p>Thank you</p>

 

[terry_dent1]

<p>The PME-90 gives a centerweighted average and a partial reading. The partial reading, which some call spot, covers the area inside the crosshairs on the focusing screen. Don't forget the prism also allows for incident readings with the white dome on top. I find incident readings to be the most accurate although they take a little more time.</p>

<p>Terry</p>

[kens]

<p>I find the hand-held spot meter more useful and flexible. For example, with the camera mounted on a tripod and positioned, who wants to move the camera around for more light readings, then re-position it again?<br>

On the other hand, with filter factors, extension tubes, and the like, the PME saves the mental compensation and possible mistakes.</p>

[non1]

<p>Thank you dear Terry and Ken, I will take both the minolta spot meter and the sekonic analog meter, plus I do have the PME 90 on the camera, I do not intend to take any digital camera this time with me , it is a long drive from my country to Al Fuerah and I do not like to carry a lot of equipment with me .</p>

<p>Thank you and all of the best for both of you.</p>

[scott_murphy_photography]

<p>Honestly, I think the simple answer to this is <em>both</em>. There are times when an incident meter will be clearly superior to an onboard camera meter. Backlit images are just one.</p>

<p>Plus, if the batteries in your camera meter die, you always have a backup</p>

 

[john_a5]

<p>My PME 90 worked a bit longer than the 45, but neither was ever reliable and I paid almost 1/2 the cost of a new 45 to have it fixed only to not use it for too long and when I did, it was way off again! Anyway, buy a good spot meter--less money and more accurate and flexible! (For the same money, you can buy one each of the spot and an incident meter--I carry both. The incident is great to get that quick reading if I am out shooting people on the street)</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

<p>With te PME90 on the camera, all you need more is a spare battery.</p>

<p>You get spot, integral and incident metering, all in that single PME90. What more could anyone want?</p>

 

[q.g._de_bakker]

<p>With the PME90 on the camera, all you need more is a spare battery.<br>

 <br>

You get spot, integral and incident metering, all in that single PME90. What more could anyone want?<br>

 </p>

[non1]

<p>Dear John, I have and for a long time the Minolta spot meter I also have another minolta meter but thats very complicated one, it is studio and ambiant meter which I never used.</p>

<p>The seckonic meter I have it had a dial ring which changes from incident to refelected light, that it is easy to use, it had a companition of reading relevent f stop and shutter speed, this one I will take with me and also the minolta spot meter, which one please is better to use on landscape ?<br>

Dear Q.G. the PME 90 I have 4 batteries for it, they look unusual ones for the size, they are fat batteries, I ordered them from adorama last 2 weeks, I do not think these batteries avilalbe at normal stores here or even in Dubai, the PME 90 is on the camera, I do not know for sure if it ok calibrated or not, may be I just give it a try to see the different between the other meters and the PME.</p>

<p>Thank you dear John and Q.G both.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>I don't have a PME-90, but I do have a 205TCC with a built-in spot meter, a PM-51 prism with a built-in center-weighted meter, and a hand-held Sekonic L-508 spot/incident/flash meter. It's largely a matter of convenience which meter to use. Each has its peculiarities, advantages and disadvantages, and is accurate if you use it correctly. Whenever possible, however, I prefer to use the Sekonic.</p>

<p>Center-weighted readings only work as-is about 70% of the time. You have to be fully aware of the sensitivity pattern and the nature of the subject. The PME-90 pattern is centered, whereas the PM51 pattern is nearly all in the top half of the FOV. Even so, you have to judge whether the subject is "average" and compensate if there are unusually bright or dark areas. Spot readings are more predictable, but you have to know where to point the meter and how to interpret the results. Incident readings taken at the subject are nearly 100% reliable, asuming you can reach the subject or hold the meter in the same kind of light.</p>

<p>As for convenience, the prism meter is there whether you use it or not, whereas you have to make a conscious effort to carry a hand-held meter. If you take closeups or use filters, particularly polarizers, exposure factors are automatically handled by TTL metering. On the other hand, it is often easier to use an hand-held meter, especially if the camera is on a tripod. You can move it to the subject (or light) easily, and point it quickly at several areas of the scene. The L-508 can also be used to measure flash exposures, for which the camera meter is useless.</p>

[stever_max]

<p>I have a 45º angle PME which is very reliable and does a great job for most of my work. I carry a Nikon F-100 with a 28mm to 200mm Nikon zoom lens that I use in the spot meter mode for spot readings.</p>

<p>I did not get the 90º PME because it can interfer with some backs and makes others less convinient to change.</p>

<p>Steve</p>