Nikkor EL-63mm question/UVIR

[adam_cohen2]

<p>Hello Ladies/Gents,<br>

I've read from several sources including Bjorn's site there has been some success with the EL-63mm 2.8 for photographing in UV. I was contemplating one for purchase and was wondering if anyone could help me out with some info ..<br>

1. What is required to get this lens to focus out to infinity? I've never endeavored to use one of these enlarger lenses attached to an SLR.<br>

2. I've noted that a number of photographers get fractional second exposures with these using a variety of flash outfits, but if one were to say photograph a landscape; what can be reasonably expected in terms of an exposure time with a full spectrum DSLR?<br>

And finally, if anyone knows of cheaper alternatives to Coastal Optics or the 105mm UV-Nikkor, such as older quartz or fluorite lenses I'd be interested to know about the attainability of said. I don't mind spending a few hundred or even a thousand to get the job done, just that 4500 is a bit pricey for such a dedicated application.<br>

Thanks in advance,<br>

Adam C</p>

[leicaglow]

<p>Adam, While I haven't tested this specific lens on a camera, I have had success using 50mm and 80mm enlarging lenses with a bellows at closer distances. I don't think I've been able to use these at infinity, but I'm not sure I've tried, either. Also, are you using the lens on film or digital? Another alternative I know of, but also not cheap, is the Hasselblad UV lenses. If you are interested in digital, the Fuji UV cameras may be more affordable: http://www.dpreview.com/news/0707/07071304fujifilmispro.asp</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>The cheapest, not to say easiest, way to experiment with something like an enlarger lens on a camera is to homebrew a bag bellows. You can make one from any light-tight bag - the black bag from a box of enlarging paper is perfect.</p>

<p>Cut holes for the lens and lens mount. I use a jam nut already supplied with the enlarger lens. The lens mount end uses a T-mount adapter for your camera mount. Once assembled, you just handhold the lens and squiggle it around to focus. Best done with a tripod mounted camera.</p>

<p>An alternative involves two pieces of foamcore board with holes for the lens and lens mount. Use rubber bands to hold the halves together. This also allows for some shifting for perspective correction. Minor adjustments for focus can be done with shims between the foamcore boards.</p>

<p>If the results seem promising, then you might consider a better solution such as a modified macro bellows unit. I've used these homebrewed solutions a few times to experiment with enlarger lenses. While the results were successful, but a bit awkward, I haven't used enlarger lenses on a camera often enough to warrant a permanent solution.</p>

[Robert DeCandido PhD]

<p>http://nikongear.com/smf/index.php?topic=21956.0</p>

[akira]

<p>First of all, the EL63mm that is capable of UV is NOT the newer f2.8 version, but the elusive older f3.5 version. If you are lucky enough to find L39 to Nikon F adapter originally made a part of Multiphot, you can achieve infinity focus with 63/3.5 (you need to loosen the lens a little in the mount, though).</p>

<p>As for the camera, the cheapest but very good one is D40. You don't need to modify the camera to use it in UV. With <a href="mailto:EL63/3.5@f8.0">EL63/3.5@f8.0</a>, D40 and an appropriate UV-pass filter (such as Baadar U, U2, Hoya U-360/Shott BG40 combo, etc.), the exposure time for landscape should be several seconds on a sunny day.</p>

<p>Actually, the older EL105/5.6 (black barrel/chrome base) is quite good a performer in UV and much easier to find and far cheaper than EL63/3.5.</p>

[bjørn rørslett]

<p>I made a focusing adapter for my EL 633/3.5. The parts were taken from an old Canon 16-25mm focusing extension that I modified to fit the Nikkor. Not that difficult. The lens focuses to infinity and has a near limit around 0.8m, so if I need close-ups, I have to add extension. The interesting fact was that the 63 EL not only did well in UV, it also perfomed well for infinity-type landscape work. I even found a space to put a "G"-type programmed CPU in the lens. Before its fame skyrocketed, nice samples of the 63 EL could be found for $50 or less. I purchased several of them at that time.</p>

<p>These days my 63EL is replaced by the CoastalOpt 60mm f/4 APO which is a better performer, but in an entirely different price bracket too. I kept the 63EL for nostalgic reasons.</p>

[oskar_ojala]

<p>I've seen some info indicating that nearly all el-Nikkor lenses have some UV transmission, so in light of that the special status of the 63 seems a bit overrated. To your questions:<br>

1) M39 to Nikon F adapters are plenty on eBay. You do need a means of focusing though. The easiest off the shelf solution is a M39 to M42 adapter, M42 mount variable length extension tube (these can be had in various sizes) and a M42 to Nikon F adapter. Personally, though, I wouldn't be so keen on using an enlarger lens for landscapes.<br>

2) About 4 secs, f8 on sunny conditions with relatively basic equipment.<br>

El-Nikkors are the cheap alternative. Someone's selling a 60 mm UV-Rodagon along with SB-140 UV flash in Europe for a meager 4000 euros, so you can assume that people know what is worth something. Everybody interested in UV reads at least Bjørns pages, so consider that minimum info. Incidentally I bought a Nikon E 35/2.5 to play with for UV and it works for some basic experimentation. Very cheap, the filters you need end up costing a lot more.</p>

[kelly_flanigan1]

<p>As as hostorical note the 2.5 inch enlarging lens came out for the Bantum Format in the 1930's; ie 828 film that is a 28x40mm image on 35mm film without the two sprocket holes.<br>

<br /> 63mm /25.4= 2.48 inches.<br>

<br /> A 63mm lens also is used for 4x4cm Baby TLR; and also for microfilm aperture cards; ie 35mm microfilm held in a computer punch card.<br>

<br /> 63mm was also usd in some check sorters that used microfilm.<br>

<br /> There are many 63mm variants too; some that are optimized for different ratios; ie large ones. Our old Durst 138S had a 63mm Componon variant made for blowing back 35mm aperture cards to 30x42 prints from 35mm microfilm.<br>

<br /> variants for industrial usage are often full custome and not well doctumented; thus use caution about assuming.<br>

<br /> I once picked up a wierd optical gizmo at C&H sales in Pasadena that had a 63mm Componon; but it only had a few fstops; it was not LTM;a dn not the other smaller mount either; it had a flange.<br>

<br /> The 63mm is a common len in cine work say for 16mm.<br>

<br /> Some guy on the bay now has a 3.5 63mm lens; its a grand; abit a steep price. I have no interest in this auction; I just mention a data point for what one is asking for the UV variant.</p>

[vahe_sahakian]

<p >I bought my EL 63-3.5 about 30 years ago, the literature calls it a Fax lens (do not know what that means), it was an expensive lens costing about four times the price of my standard EL 50-2.8. I used the lens for enlarging large B&W prints from slow fine grain films, it is the sharpest enlarging lens that I have come across and is capable of producing large prints with 4x5 quality.</p>

[adam_cohen2]

<p>Hi all,<br>

Thanks for the insights. I referenced Bjorn's site and indeed it is the 3.5 I was thinking of, not the more commonly available 2.8. As was the case, I looked on the bay and saw the auction for a copy going for shy of a grand, a bit steep.<br>

It seems from the comments here and anecdotal evidence there are a number of ways to do it, ie helicoid, stepping rings or bellows, the larger challenge is actually getting a copy of the lens!</p>

<p>As long as we are here, let me pose this question .. I have a fascination with shooting UV landscapes .. not that many photographers do it .. the 63mm focal length seems well adapted to this .. does anyone know of an off the shelf solution sub $1000? Ie. purpose built or can be modified without drilling or machining that is more readily available?<br>

I agree the 60 mm CoastalOpt would be the ideal thing, but 4500 for a lens is tough to stomach. I have lenses more expensive than that, but I use them in my professional work. Its difficult to justify something with a price tag like that for something I won't do on a routine basis.</p>

<p>PS: If its of interest ... I am shooting with a Nikon D90 converted for full spectrum use (the hot mirror was replaced with a clear glass and I shoot IR with Hoya R72, R90 etc on the lens).</p>

<p>Thanks again,<br>

Adam</p>

[waldemar_giers___kitchener]

<p>Hello Adam,<br />May I steer you in the other direction then 63mm nikkor? It is good lens but very overpriced. There is another alternative and you will not have to make focusing attachment to it. It is Novoflex Noflexar 3.5/35mm macro lens. It comes with M42 or exakta mount. To be able to focus to infinity you will need to unscrew existing mount and attach nikon replacement. Trick is - 1mm needs to be machined off before nikon mount is installed otherwise it wont focus all the way to infinity. I think Bjorn did it first. I made this change also and it works like charm. Noflexar can focus very close (it's macro lens) and UV transmission is great. You can easily (but not everyday) buy it on auction site for about $200.</p>