Manual Focus Lenses

[kfrog]

<p>Over the past months I have picked up several Asahi Takumar manual focus lenses for use with my K10D. I enjoy their optical quality, superb construction and smooth operation. However when it comes time for family gathering photography I tend to fall back on my FA50mm f/1.4 for it's auto focus and speed to get those spontaneous shots.<br>

<br /> Well I'd like to use my wide/short Taks (28/3.5, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8) for interior photos and my more tele Taks (85/1.9, 105/2.8) for exterior photos in these situations. Any tips on speeding up my focus techniques and general Tak usage?</p>

[andrewg_ny]

<p>Well, I don't do this myself much but you can shoot these in Av mode which you may or may not find quicker than M(anual) shooting mode. You could also try using trap focus, where you use AF.S, keep the shutter pressed while focusing and and the shutter trips at the moment AF is confirmed.</p>

[jpo3136b]

<p>That Tak has a distance scale on the focus ring. Look at your subject, guess the distance, dial that in. Then refine focus based on appearance. Often it will only take a slight motion to fix up the image.</p>

<p>Estimating distance to subject is a skill that's getting lost. I was photographing beside a videographer who was raised on digital equipment; the computer always solved that problem for them. A little practice on the task can be fairly effective.</p>

<p>I find that thinking in meters helps.</p>

<p>Distance estimation and angle of view estimation can help you more later; it can help you get away from keeping the eye in the viewfinder all the time. As your skills solidify, you will be able to do more and more non-reflex preparation. This has the advantage of keeping you aware of your topic area. You won't have to find subsequent pictures through the lens. You can see them with your eyes, and then direct the lens where and how you want it to go.</p>

<p>Strangely, I find that this sometimes coincides with managing lighting or studio setups. Somehow it ends up being related to an overall management of the situation.</p>

<p>A good practice exercise might be setting up the camera to make the photo without looking through the viewfinder at all. Then check and see what you've got. You should be able to set up a static photo to about 80% solution or greater with a little practice; maybe a minor adjustment in framing or focus needed.</p>

[michael_kuhne]

<p>As John says. You can pretty well get your focus ahead of time by maximizing your depth of field and using the DOF scale on the lens. Then work within this distance. Being that looking through the VF is with wide open aperture, after you get yuor setup it will still appear that things are not in focus which actually are. The DOF preview can confirm. More effective, of course, with less telephoto and more wide angle. Also pumping up ISO to use smaller apertures will help this process. </p>

[michael_elenko]

<p>Hey Douglas,</p>

<p>I totally understand using an AF lens as a go-to for social happenings. I favor that approach too in family settings, we're just hanging out. AF works well.</p>

<p>To answer your query, to me it's a matter of eye-to-hand-to-finger coordination. Steady exercise and practice if speed of capture is one problem. You almost have to get into a Zen-like frame of mind. If quicker focus is the problem, strongly consider a Katz-eye split screen. I've been using one for the past year. Very bright, and the split really works. You just train you eye and hand. Prior to that I used a Chinese split screen for a couple of years and that worked pretty well too. Cheaper, not as bright, and no anti-blackout function, but still better than the kit screen.</p>

<p>I'll echo Andrew's recommendation to use AV, but I think you do that already. That's a nice collection of Super-Taks you have acquired and it sure seems like you know how to use them.</p>

<p>ME</p>

[les_lammers]

<p>ME,<br>

Do you find that the metering is 'off' with the KatzEye?</p>

<p>Doug,<br>

For interior shots I would use the wider lenses simply because you have greater DOF and focusing can be a bit off and you will have a good pic. I don't have a KatzEye but I did replace the stock screen with this <a href="http://www.pentaximaging.com/accessories/LL-80_AF_Divided_Matte_Focusing_Screen/">http://www.pentaximaging.com/accessories/LL-80_AF_Divided_Matte_Focusing_Screen/</a> *I* like it.</p>

[michael_elenko]

<p>Les,<br>

Re: metering, nope.<br>

ME</p>

[laur1]

<blockquote>

<p>Any tips on speeding up my focus techniques and general Tak usage?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>One generic tip - practice. You must be able to focus on static subjects reliably before getting to moving subjects. With moving subjects, try to anticipate where they'll be, prefocus, and shoot when they get in focus. You can also try burst shooting while focusing.<br>

I use the Pentax magnifier loupe to improve the magnification of the viewfinder and help me with the focusing:<br>

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Pentax-Magnifying-Eyepiece-O-ME53-K10D/dp/B000R90IM4/">http://www.amazon.com/Pentax-Magnifying-Eyepiece-O-ME53-K10D/dp/B000R90IM4/</a></p>

[kfrog]

<p>Thanks for the responses ya'll. </p>

<p>LC - I have the magnifier loupe already. It certainly helps.<br>

ME - Just loving my ever expanding collection ;-) I looked into KatzEyes focus screen. One thing I read about them on the K10D is that the red focus point disappears. Any truth to that?<br>

AG - I pretty much use AF.S and Av mode. I do use manual mode also but mostly in static situations.<br>

Seems for the most part guys that for me I just need to practice and try some of your pre-focus suggestions. Thanks.</p>

<p>Have a Happy New Year everybody!</p>

[michael_elenko]

<blockquote>

<p>I looked into KatzEyes focus screen. One thing I read about them on the K10D is that the red focus point disappears. Any truth to that?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Nope. Red light(s) work dandy.</p>

<p>ME</p>