Very Very novice question

[glenn_matchett]

<p>Hello I really hope you guys can give me some basic info, I have bought my first camera 503cx 80mm lense and back now the reson I bought it was to learn and understand true photogprahy rather than shoot off a whole load of image and with the law of averages at lest have one good image.<br>

My simple question ishow does this camera work, I have the bright screen in the view finder but I find thatw ith the magnifying section down I am struggleing to see a sharp image I really am not sure what I am doing wrong, so so far I now relise that understanding photogprahy is going to take some time but I am looking forward to it, but if any one can give me hints tips on how to get going that would be a great start, as I would love to get a roll of film ina nd see what happens.</p>

<p>hope you can help thanks inadvance</p>

[neilambrose]

<p>Your camera has a waist level finder. It's designed to be viewed normally (without the magnifier) held roughly in the region of waist height. You glance down and, seen from a distance, it should be quite easy to see the image reflected on the focusing screen so you can judge focus in good light. The image should appear clear and sharp.</p>

<p>Sometimes you need to see more detail - especially in low light or low contrast - or when you want to be sure of critical focus. This is when you use the magnifier (also sometimes called a loupe). The camera should be held at chest height and you peer into the loupe with your eye right up to the glass. This will give you a 4x magnified view of the focusing screen, allowing careful focusing. But your angle of view is restricted to the center part of the image only. When you've established good focus, flip the loupe to the collapsed position and use the finder at waist level to compose your image.</p>

[ken_kuzenski]

<p>Glenn, I don't know about the 503--my own camera is much older and more primitive--but I find these days that I need to compose my image, then snap the magnifier into place in the viewfinder. I pick the spot where I want perfect focus and get it in focus with the magnifier in place, then snap the magnifier back out of the way and look at the frame again before shooting. My eyes aren't that good these days, and without the magnifier up, I can't tell if something is in good focus or not. So if I understood and you can't see a sharp image with the magnifier down (out of the way)--that's normal for me, at least. <br>

That's a superb camera you have, and once you get the knack of using it, I bet you'll love it! Good luck!</p>

[glenn_matchett]

<p>Thank you both very much - I thought that the image looked in focus with the Loupe in the collapsed position but I was not sure then when I looked through the Loupe I was not sure if it was in focus I am just going to have to learn and I look forward to it.<br>

So as you both have been kind enough to help me with that question, do I then just set the film speed and apature etc on the lens then and I then should be on my way. Do you suggest that I use a light meter, I have not got one yet I bout a poloroid back for £15 as a means to see if I have the right exposure but I am guessing I need a light meter.<br>

Ken - I feel that this type of photogprahy is what photography is about rather than the shooting 100 frames and getting a good image in one I really am learning the fundermentals of photogprahy and I am looking forward to this thanks for the good luck.</p>

[tim_ludwig2]

<p>www.butkus.org/chinon/</p>

<p>Great place to download free manuals</p>

 

[steve salmons]

<p>Hi Glenn,<br>

Money will be well spent on a light meter and learning how to use it. It need not be expensive for outdoor work but should be reasonably accurate. Bearing in mind that it is unlikely that any two cameras or meters will deliver exactly the same reading a good idea would be to compare a reading from your digital camera with a reading from a prospective meter set at the same ISO setting. As long as they are within 1 stop over an average scene the meter will be usable for film work. Polaroid/Fuji instant film is a very,very expensive way of assessing correct exposure.</p>

[bethe_fisher]

<p>If your final result will be on film rather than Polaroid/Fuji, then a light meter is a great investment. Instant film will not respond exactly the same as regular film. You will need something to give you what to set on the lens as it doesn't sound like you have a meter prism. <br>

I have the 503cxi and tend to compose without the loupe, check my focus with it, then double check the composition before making the exposure. I've also found that it's much easier to use on a tripod than handheld. <br>

Also, find somewhere with good pictures of how to load the film - it's easy to do it backwards (with the backing paper out instead of the film). <br>

Congrats on getting a great camera!</p>

[glenn_matchett]

<p>Thank you all so much... this forum is really a great source of info, in actual fact I just poped on again to put another question on here regarding the meter.</p>

<p>So then all you gurus what is a good meter to use I have been looking at them and I dont really want to go down the route of buying somthing that is ££££ or to you guys in the USA $$$$ I want somthing that is easy to use that I can use for portrait work more so but stillw ant to be able to take landscape shots, I am biting at the bit to get some fil run through this camera.</p>

<p>Bethe- I am on the look out for a sturdy tripod as well so fi you know of any good ones that you can suggest Ia m all ears.....</p>

<p>thanks again everyone</p>

[david_held1]

<p>Glenn:<br>

Try to pick up a Gossen Luna Pro SBC (or in Europe, the Profisix SBC). You can usually find them for a reasonable price. They are accurate and best of all, take a regular 9v battery.<br>

Dave Held</p>

[vick_vickery]

<p>"The Hasselblad Manual" by E. Wildi is the definitive book on the care and feeding of Hasselblad equipment. A copy is well worth having.</p>

[dave_wilson7]

<p>Do you wear glasses, or have eye needs? You might need to change the diopter in the magnifier. Nice equipment you bought, should prove out well. </p>

[joseph_krause]

<p>Glenn:<br>

Good choice with the 503CX. Having used many different cameras over the years it is now the one I use on a regular basis. A few thoughts. First, several years ago I replaced the waist level finder with the Hasselblad NC2 Prism. It makes a big difference at an inexpensive price, giving you a 45 degree view with 3X magnification. You can proably find one cheap on KEH.com. Second, you have in your hands a camera that was specifically designed for flash photography. For pretty much faultless results I would also recommend a Metz 45CT-4 flash and a Metz SCA 390 module. For the last ten years I have taken great pictures of my family and of friends with this set-up. Bonne chance!</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p><em>You glance down and, seen from a distance, it should be quite easy to see the image reflected on the focusing screen so you can judge focus in good light.</em></p>

<p>Dream on! It takes a magnifier with a diopter correction to match your vision and a lot of concentration to focus an Hasselblad accurately at full aperture. Maybe if you hand-hold at 1/30 second nobody will notice if the focus isn't accurate. The DOF is only half that of 35mm at the same aperture and field of view.</p>

[glenn_matchett]

<p>Thanks everyone I dont wear glasses but after looking in it I thought I should maybe have a test, maybe the Loupe still has the glass in for some one that had an eye sight problem .</p>

<p>I will give it another go tommorrow during the day and see how I get on because I have had to be testing it out at night in the house, I will keep you all informed and when I run my first film through I will let you all know how I get on, either a roll of sharp images or completley blured and over exposed LOL</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

<p>You could indeed focus a brightly lit subject without the loupe. But never as precise as with. Being brightly lit, the small error will be reduced by DoF, even though that is smaller, compared to the one you get on 35 mm format (which actually helps during focussing).<br>

Acute Matte screens make it a bit more difficult though.</p>

<p>The plate the loupe is in is marked with an diopter value on all but the one holding the standard, 0 diopter, loupe. So it should say so on there if a previous owner changed the loupe for one corrected to his or her eyesight.<br />Perhaps this is the way you find out that you need reading glasses, Glen? ;-)</p>

[User_4136860]

<p>Yet another learner driver who has bought a Ferrari before he can drive a Mini.</p>

[frank.schifano]

<p>Don't kid yourself about the Mini. It may not be as difficult to handle well as a Ferrari would be, but it is a capable little car that with some practice can be a real blast to drive. Driven normall, it won't bite you in the ass, but you can do things with it that will scare the shit out of an inexperienced driver. Do not ever get one with an automatic transmission. <br>

As for loading film into a Hasselblad back, there are a number of videos on Youtube describing the process. <a href="

one</a> that's pretty good.</p>

[stever_max]

<blockquote>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=993080">Vick Vickery</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Frequent poster" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/1roll.gif" alt="" title="Frequent poster" /> </a> , Dec 23, 2009; 04:44 p.m.<br>

"The Hasselblad Manual" by E. Wildi is the definitive book on the care and feeding of Hasselblad equipment. A copy is well worth having.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Get the fifth edition, the sixth edition deleted detail that is needed for using film and adds in its place digital information and newer cameras.</p>

<p>Steve</p>