Rolleicord V: Light Value System/Scale

[eric_mogren]

<p>I shot film for thirty years before the "digital revolution," but I miss it and am returning to film with a medium format camera. I am considering a Rolleicord V is superb condition with a new CLA/overhaul.<br>

I have never used this camera before (my prior experience was all with 35mm), and I am puzzled by the Light Value System/Scale. I have read an owners' manual on line, but I remain confused. I believe I understand that it enables one to lock a shutter speed and then adjusting the LVS will automatically change the aperture, or vice versa. Correct?<br>

But, can the camera be used manually without the LVS system? In other words, can I override the system and set the speed and aperture as I choose?<br>

I assume the shutter speeds are designated in standard speeds (1/60, 1/125, 1/200, etc. or something similar), but are the aperture designations also standard (f3.5, f5.6, f8, etc.)? If not, how does one use a standard light meter to determine the speed and aperture combinations?<br>

If the camera must be used with the LVS system, how accurate are the "rule of thumb" settings determined by the little picture chart on the back of the camera?<br>

Finally, I will be shooting primarily black and white with this camera. If I must use the estimating chart and the LVS system, what speed black and white film have you found to be most successful (forgiving)?</p>

<p>Thank you for your input!</p>

[steve_10170]

<p>Hi Eric - I wondered about many of the same items when I bought my Rolleicord V. Do not be concerned. You can set both aperture and speed manually. The LVS numbering and 'linkage' is simply a convenience; not a requirement. In principle, you set the desired shutter speed on right. Then select the LVS setting (which also directly corresponds to aperture setting) on the left. The idea was that if you then change the shutter speed, the 'linkage' will adjust the aperture setting accordingly. However, changing the aperature will not change the shutter speed; it's a one way thing.<br>

I personally never refer to the LVS numbering. I simply set my shutter speed and aperture and enjoy my camera! The only thing to remember is that if you do change the shutter speed for some reason, you'll want to hold the setting for the aperture if you don't desire it to change...no biggie. The LVS system is NOT a lock.<br>

I too shoot strictly B&W to date and really enjoy it. I use Ilford HP or Delta or TMAX in either 100 or 400 speeds. Really wonderful results.<br>

I can't speak to the accuracy/relevancy of the chart on the back, but it is the 'cutest' thing I've seen. Little depictions of shadow lengths and angles of sun, and different scenes to guide the user. Very much in keeping with the age of the camera. I just use sunny 16 rule and have fun.<br>

The camera has a ton of charm and the photos are wonderful. One suggestion I picked up on the way was to buy the tripod adapter since I like to use a tripod (just personal preference). It is an inexpensive 'must have' due to design of the camera so that you don't accidentally wreck the underside of the camera when mounting it on the tripod. <br>

Welcome to visit http://oldschoolphoto.shutterfly.com/ with password of 'film' to see some scans of negatives and prints.<br>

Enjoy the camera! Also, the removal of the focus hood is pretty straighforward on this model if you want to clean the mirror etc in future. Don't let that deter you from this model.<br>

Hope that helps! Cheers.</p>

[eric_mogren]

<p>Steve:<br>

Thank you for your prompt response!</p>

<p>You wrote:<br>

"One suggestion I picked up on the way was to buy the tripod adapter since I like to use a tripod (just personal preference). It is an inexpensive 'must have' due to design of the camera so that you don't accidentally wreck the underside of the camera when mounting it on the tripod."</p>

<p>Yikes! That IS an important tip! What is the issue with the tripod mount? Is it not a standard size or thread or depth? What is the adapter, and where may I find one (or is it something that a reasonably handy fellow can fabricate)?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

[eric_mogren]

<p>Steve:<br>

One more thing...<br>

Nice photos. Are you from Ann Arbor? I recognize the locations in Dexter and A2! I lived there for five years, and your images brought back memories.<br>

So, thanks, twice.</p>

 

[jack_fisher1]

<p>Eric,<br>

I second what Steve said. The EV scale can be ignored and overriden if desired. But it is convenient at times. For example: If my exposure meter for ASA 100 film speed calls for 1/250 sec. at f8, I can set the dials that way. That is EV14. If I want to change from f8 to f16 - I simply move the shutter speed lever while watching the f-stop dial until it is at f16. The shutter speed is changed at the same time (due to overrideable detent) to 1/60, still maintaining the proper exposure for the scene at EV14. Most of the time, I simply set the Shutter speed and f-stop independently and ignore the EVS "helps."</p>

<p>Since I use an exposure meter, or the sunny-16 rule, I have ignored the picture chart on the back. The EV scale could be useful there.</p>

<p>I have also found the image on the ground glass to be somewhat dim. Rather than spend a lot of money on a special screen - and finding Rollei's drop-in fresnel (Rolleigrid, I believe) somewhat rare and expensive, I have found a "magnifying sheet" at the bookstore. They come in various sizes, and the smaller ones can be cut down to fit over the ground glass. There are two tabs to hold such an accessory (The rear one is spring loaded for that purpose). My magnifier from the bookstore cost less than $2. It brightens up the viewfinder enough for my tired old eyes. They come in different "focal lengths" and I tried three before finding one I like a lot.<br>

Good luck with the 'Cord V. I, also shoot B&W with mine, and find the 3.5 Xenar to be a fine lens.</p>

<p>Jack</p>

[jack_fisher1]

<p>I don't use a tripod adapter, and haven't found a problem. The mount takes a standard 1/4-20 tripod screw. Maybe Steve can shed some light on the need for an adapter.</p>

<p>Jack</p>

[kparratt]

<p>Eric, firstly a welcome back to film. The longevity of supply needs you to buy and use.<br /> Is <a href="http://vieilalbum.com/RolleicordVUS.htm"><strong>this</strong> </a> your Rolleicord?<br /> If you do a Google Images search on the word <em>Rolleicord</em> , you will find plenty of pictures and helpful references.<br /> ...<br /> Today's film, although reduced in range from the previous decades, is simply <strong>superb</strong> . As an artist, for me there is no other way to describe the imaging qualities of current emulsions.<br /> I will use just about any kind of B&W I get my hands on, and make it work. Others members will soon offer suggestions of their personal favorites. One of mine is EFKE R100 (Previously labeled by it's DIN value R21) But when concerbed about possible blocked highlight densities, I use EMOFIN 2 bath compensating developer with excellent results. EFKE is also the last of the pre-T grain emulsions.<br /> If you are not set up to develop your own, one of the C41 process films, either from Kodak or Ilford. These also have great latitude, offering a stop over, and two stops under without requiring pull or push processing. That will get you started again, but when you are ready with tank and reel, ... they are all so good. EFKE, Kodak Tr-X, T-Max 100 or 400, Ilford Delta and FP4. Just go for it.<br /> Depending on where you are, you may find EFKE marketed under it's pre-WW2 brand Adox.<br /> <a href="http://www.fotokemika.hr/details/34/0/black-white-films/120-127"><strong>EFKE 100</strong> </a> is the same as <a href="http://www.adox.de/english/ADOX_Films/ADOX_Films/ADOX_CHS_Films.html"><strong>ADOX CHS 100</strong> </a><br>

If you are in fact in the USA, (Michigan?) Visit <a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/">http://www.digitaltruth.com/</a> They everything you need and a good shipping service.<br>

Cheers, Kevin</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

[d_purdy]

<p>The tripod hole on the bottom of the camera is probably the European size and needs an adapter to make it the American size. They are cheap and available at photo stores. <br>

The other adapter which I am not sure works with the Rolleicord is called the Rolleifix. It screws onto the tripod and then the camera slides into it like a quick release. You don't need it but the sheet metal in the back of a Rollei is soft and if you carry your camera on a tripod over your shoulder or if you aim your camera down a lot and lean on it a bit you can bend that metal on the bottom. The Rolleifix gives extra support to the bottom so it won't bend.</p>

[John Seaman]

<p>I've got a Rolleicord 5a, the exposure value scale is very useful especially if you have an exposure meter which can output direct in exposure values, like some modern digital units. Just set the exposure value on one side, and scroll through the available shutter speed/aperture combinations on the other.</p>

[eric_mogren]

<p>Jack:<br>

Thanks for the tip. One of the hesitations I had with the Rollei was the focusing screen -- I test-drove a Yashica Mat and was pleased with the screen, but not overwhelmed by the rest of the camera. It was fine, but did not make me smile.... I have read mixed things about many tlr cameras, but I have never read anyone's regrets about a Rolleicord.</p>

<p>Kevin:<br>

Thanks you for the welcome back. I am not developing myself, but sending out to a processor. Yes. That is the camera that I am considering. I am REALLY looking forward to medium format. I used to live in Michigan, am now in rural Illinois, and the digital truth website looks interesting.</p>

<p>D Purdy<br>

Good information about the sheet metal. Since this camera is a couple of years older than me, I think that I will treat it some respect. I appreciate any suggestions about how to keep it safe. One of the attractions of this format, and camera, is that it will force me to once again really think about what I am shooting, rather than simply crank off a hundred shots and delete ninety-eight of them.</p>

[kelly_flanigan1]

<p>Many cameras come were made with two different tripod socket variants.<br>

<br /> If marketed in the USA most still cameras are a 1/4-20 thread.<br>

<br /> Bigger 16mm cine camera may have the bigger thread 3/8-16.<br>

<br /> My pre WW2 Rolleiflex standard has a 3/8-16 mount; and has a 3/8-16 to 1/4-20 adapter. Theses cost a US dime long ago; today a better camera store has them; ebay has many. A Kodak Special Reflex 16mm ; Bolex 16mm pro; Arriflex 35mm IIc; cine cameras have a 3/8-16 mount; most Zorki 35mm Rangefinders do to; but not all.<br>

<br /> There are even 35mm and 16mm Arri's that have a 1/4-20 thread too. The tripod socket *piece/nut/block* is replaceable on many cameras; thus even if a camera was never marketed with a 3/8-16 thread; it can be retrofited to one.Or it is the other way; an Arri gets a 1/4-20 instead of a 3/8-20; or both.<br /> Even camera like the Exakta VX series are 1/4-20 but have some with 3/8-16 too.<br>

<br /> Mitchel 35mm cine cameras have a 3/8-16 foot; even Hollywood cine camera that were around before any of us were born.<br>

<br /> In TLR; I have seen 3/8-16 in Cords and Flexes of many model types. I have seen cameras marked in meters only; some in feet; some in both. If one trys to make a rigid black and white issue of what cameras have 3/8-16 and what do not you find later an acception; and thus be in error.<br>

<br /> With a giant camera with alot of space on the cameras foot/plate; I have seen some that came originally as 3/8-16; but have a tapped hole for 1/4-30 added; and another for 5/8-11 for a survey tripod; there are alsor some metric stuff too; ie 10mm; 6mm; 16mm too.<br>

<br /> I once saw a Carl Zeiss NI2 Auto level that was a 16mm therad with 1.5mm pitch; and the many dozens other ones have a 5/8"-11. A 5/8-11 would go in and bind in a turn or two.</p>

[patrick_stack]

<p>Eric -</p>

<p>You'll love using the 'Cord V, I've been a Rollei collector and user for many years and really enjoy them.</p>

<p>First, advice: Get really familiar with the manual. I can send you a copy if you want one, no charge, happy to help.</p>

<p>Second, a caution: Never try to use the self timer, with double exposure lever set with red mark showing, as if you were going to make a double exposure. It's the small lever to the right of the lenses, as you look at the front of the camera. Normal position for the lever is up, for single exposure, down for double exposure, then red dot shows. An attempt to use the self timer in double exposure position WILL jam the camera, then repairs are required.</p>

<p>I second the Rolleifix advice, wholeheartedly. A friend had his Rolleiflex, with prism attached, (making a very heavy combination,) mounted on a tripod, no Rolleifix. Being an avid hiker he was having a bit of a walk, carried tripod horizontally over shoulder when terrain required. The weight and stress caused by the horizontal position of the camera to tripod relationship, resulted in the destruction of the camera back. It is aluminum, very light weight, plenty strong for normal use, but on tripod you must be careful to always keep the camera positioned vertically, off vertical the stress focuses at the single attachment point as a bending motion. That's what will bend the back out of shape.</p>

<p>The Rolleifix attaches to the base of the camera, with the center track guides making firm contact within the grooves, at the sides of the tripod mount fixture of the Rolleicord. The Rolleifix has two mounting lugs at the sides of the forward end, these make firm contact within the two small metal fixtures at the lower sides of the front of the camera, (they look like little eyes.)</p>

<p>The Rolleifix has a positive locking lever, once the unit is positioned correctly on the camera, the lever is tensioned and a positive lock then automatically secures the unit to the camera. The lock must be released, in order to untension the unit for removal from the camera. Extremely well designed, I consider it an essential accessory for the security of the camera. It works on every Rollei I've owned, so if you move on to another model it works then as well.</p>

<p>With the Rolleifix installed, the camera is now firmly held from the front and the bottom, on the vertical AND the horizontal planes. Much, much stronger, the load stress is then evenly and securely distributed, very highly recommended. I still see them for sale, around $40-60 for a good one, a sound investment.</p>

<p>Good luck with using the Rollei, welcome to medium format photography. Best regards.</p>

<p>Patrick </p>

<p> </p>

[steve_10170]

<p>Hi Eric - back from Christmas shopping! Patrick covered the 'rolleifix' issues. For me, just looking at the design of the metal housing and recognizing that without this device, you are screwing directly into that same metal housing, just seemed like was asking to bend. It's such as well designed device and really completes the Rolleicord just like having a case and hood.<br>

Yes - Live just north of Ann Arbor in Hamburg/Pinckney area. I'm looking forward to spending more time next summer capturing some of the sights now that I have my darkroom set up. Glad you enjoyed the photos. Cheers!</p>

[john_liberty]

<p>Having owned the 'cord and 'flex cameras I can attest they are very nice cameras indeed. The Rolleiflex models will give you the opportunity to use better lenses like the Xenotar and Planars, but you'll pay a hefty premium for those models. You might want to spend some time looking at sample pics on flickr and pbase to see if these lenses would be worth their extra price to you. The downside of this is sometimes their sample photos are not the best and you can spend a lot of time looking at someone's 100 uploads of bad photos of their cat.</p>

<p>Using a TLR is not everyone's cup of tea, and it takes some time adjusting to a camera that you don't hold up to your eye. They also present a right to left flip view in the finder, so don't be disappointed if it takes you a while to adjust. I really never have, so a TLR is certainly not my walk around MF camera. The MF folders are better for me, especially ones w/ coupled rangefinders.</p>

<p>I would also recommend a Minolta Autocord TLR. The Rokkor lens is amazing, and while the camera is not up to the build standards of the Rolleiflex cameras it is plenty sturdy enough for me, and I prefer it's focusing system. Whichever camera you go with welcome back to film. As far as forgiving (and great looks) I would recommend 400 ISO Tri-X and 125 ISO Ilford FP4. Beautiful films and very forgiving of metering "creativity" (mistakes).</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

[patrick_stack]

<p>Eric -<br>

Yesterday I sent you some wrong info for the Rolleicord V, regarding the double exposure lever and self timer control.</p>

<p>What must be avoided is using the self timer and the bulb, ("B") setting, on the shutter speed knob. <strong>Only shutter speeds of 1 second through the fastest</strong> <strong>will allow use of the self timer</strong>, without damage to the camera. It's well explained in the camera manual.</p>

<p>My regrets for the mistaken info.</p>

<p>Patrick</p>

<p> </p>

[d_purdy]

<p>http://www.pbase.com/dpurdy/newport_oregon<br>

Here is a gallery that shows the flexibility of the Rollei with 2.8 Xenotar. (I always use a prism)<br>

Dennis</p>

[d_purdy]

<p>http://www.pbase.com/dpurdy/oceanside_oregon<br>

Here are some shot with a hand held 2.8 Planar again with prism and scanned from prints. The light was not bright enough to stop down very far.<br>

Dennis</p>

[bengt1664878721]

<p>Really excellent work, Dennis.</p>

[steve m smith]

<blockquote>

<p>The tripod hole on the bottom of the camera is probably the European size and needs an adapter to make it the American size. They are cheap and available at photo stores.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>There is no 'American size' for tripod threads. It's the British 1/4" Whitworth which just happens to be almost identical to the US 1/4 - 20. The tpi is the same but there is a 5 degree difference in cut angle.<br /> The larger thread is 3/8" Whitworth if I remember correctly. You can get a helicoil adaptor.</p>

<p>Anyway, it's a fine camera - I have one too. When I look at a print or transparency I have made with it, I wonder why I have any other cameras.</p>