Getting Depth of Field in Jewelry Shots

[photosbyasher]

<p>I am shooting Jewelry with a D300 mated to Nikon's 60mm micro 2.8. I am happy with my results, except for one thing...I find that EVEN at f40 I do not get a deep enough depth of field in my ring images. At that focal length, you probably already know that I am using strobes and in addition, I am shooting the light through a small light tent.<br>

I have considered taking multiple images while changing the focusing plane. If I do this, then I need recommendations for great software to handle focus stacks.<br>

However, I prefer always to get the shot right from the beginning...any ideas on improving my DoF?<br>

Thanks in advance<br>

Asher Fine</p>

 

[nealcurrie]

<p>You might need something that allows movements.</p>

[Matt Laur]

<p>How will the images be used - is this for online viewing only, or are we talking about large prints (say, in a magazine?).<br /><br />Here's why I ask: if you don't need to fill the frame with the ring, for the most resolution, consider simply backing off a bit and cropping down. From farther away, you'll have way more DoF (hey, quarter inches matter, given what you're doing).<br /><br />Also of note: don't bother stopping down with that lens (which I use) on that camera (which I also use!) more than to, say, f/14 - otherwise you'll start paying the price in softness from diffraction. Very noticeably by the time you get to f/22.<br /><br />If you simply can't make it happen with the 60mm, you may need to work from farther away with a 105 or so... or, as Neal mentions, consider a tilt-shift lens. But that starts getting quite expensive. Otherwise, it's shooting and using the image in a way that doesn't make DoF critical in the first place, or going with focus stacking.<br /><br />Adobe's CS4 has a native routine for it, or you could go with the well-regarded tool from <strong><a href="http://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconfocus.html">Helicon</a></strong>.</p>

[joseph_wisniewski]

<p>Neal's right. I do most of my jewelry with either a Nikon PB-4 bellows (tilt and shift) or a PC-E (tilt shift) 85mm macro. If you'd like to try focus stacking the choices are basically Helicon Focus and Combine Z...</p>

<ul>

<li>Helicon definitely the best drag and drop focus stacker, and it's the only decent program that has a Mac version. </li>

<li>Combine Z <a href="http://www.hadleyweb.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/">(link)</a> very powerful, probably the best results, and free. It only runs on computers. </li>

<li>CS4 has a reputation for high effort and poor results.</li>

<li>enfuse and tufuse seem to have ceased development 13-14 months ago, so I'll skip the links.</li>

</ul>

[greg_peterson3]

<p>I don't shoot jewelry, but I do a lot of close-up work.</p>

<p>Focus stacking works very well for me. </p>

<p>I've used Combine Z and Photoshop CS4. Both have produced excellent results.</p>

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[photosbyasher]

<p>Thank you all for your input.<br>

To Matt Laur: the images are targeted for an internet site. Here is a sample of the work I have done: <a href="http://www.josephegalliano.com/">http://www.josephegalliano.com/</a> (If you explore the site, only the images on black background are mine...the white background'ed images are being replaced by my work)<br>

I have not found a lack of softness in my images at such a pinpoint f-stop, but I will now look for it. I will also try backing up an cropping down to see the effects on DoF.<br>

NOW THEN, the reason for my original post is that I want to continue to improve my style and technique so that I can comfortably move into magazine work. I love working with jewelry, it does not talk back and looks oh, so pretty. I hoep to becom good enough to be called upon outside of Canada or Israel, where I am dually-based. <br>

To all, I will try your recommendation for focus stacking programs. Many thanks again.<br>

Yours in Photography,<br>

Asher</p>

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[Matt Laur]

<p>If you're headed into magazine work, then you're headed for a tilt-shift lens. There's really no other option in terms of a clean, well-oiled workflow. Alas, they ain't cheap!</p>

[joseph_wisniewski]

<p>They can be cheap. A Nikon PB-4 tilt/shift bellows with a Nikon 50mm, 85mm, 105mm, and 135mm enlarger lens will give you surprising image quality and magnification to 4x. Since the decline of the film market, you can find the El-Nikkors for about $25-50 each on the popular auction site, and the PB-4 about $200.</p>

[charles_stobbs3]

How about positioning the camera further away and then enlarging the picture to the desired size?

[photosbyasher]

<p>Thanks for your replies.<br>

I have looked at the PB4 and PB6 on eBay. I have the following questions based on your replies:<br>

1. Can I not mate my 60 mm macro onto the PB4? What are you, Jospeh recommending the 50, 85, 105, or 135 put together with a 4X enlarger? My understanding is that with each piece of glass between me and the jewelry, there is the risk of degrading the image quality. Why not somply go with the 60 mm MACRO on the PB4?<br>

2. Why the PB4 and not PB6?<br>

3. What is the difference between going with a t/s bellows like the PB's vs. going with a digital T/S lens besides of course, cost? What will be the difference with respect to the final image?<br>

4. Matt, given your experience, what is your response to postioning my D300 farther away from the jewelry when shooting it as it pretains to increased DoF?<br>

Final comments: I have looked into Helicon as an option for assembling focus stacks and my response is like this-I prefer to get the image done right from the beginning especially because it SAVES SO MUCH TIME! which is my peferred way of working.<br>

Thanks again to everyone who takes the time to reply to me and I await your responses.</p>

[photosbyasher]

<p>Thanks for your replies.<br>

I have looked at the PB4 and PB6 on eBay. I have the following questions based on your replies:<br>

1. Can I not mate my 60 mm macro onto the PB4? What are you, Jospeh recommending the 50, 85, 105, or 135 put together with a 4X enlarger? My understanding is that with each piece of glass between me and the jewelry, there is the risk of degrading the image quality. Why not somply go with the 60 mm MACRO on the PB4?<br>

2. Why the PB4 and not PB6?<br>

3. What is the difference between going with a t/s bellows like the PB's vs. going with a digital T/S lens besides of course, cost? What will be the difference with respect to the final image?<br>

4. Matt, given your experience, what is your response to postioning my D300 farther away from the jewelry when shooting it as it pretains to increased DoF?<br>

Final comments: I have looked into Helicon as an option for assembling focus stacks and my response is like this-I prefer to get the image done right from the beginning especially because it SAVES SO MUCH TIME! which is my peferred way of working.<br>

Thanks again to everyone who takes the time to reply to me and I await your responses.</p>