can you help me please?

[clicknimagine]

<p>Hi friends, i am a new member of this site. i have created a soft box for some product shot, i use two 36 watts CFL lights from two sides, but i am not satisfied with the light, and guess it is not sufficient, can anybody please help me to find a proper solution, i am just posting an example of the work i have done.<img src="../photo/10229770" alt="" /> i also have brighten the image slightly by raw converter. i use canon eos 500d with 18-55 IS kit.</p>

[clicknimagine]

<p>sorry the image is not showing and it is here.</p><div></div>

[clicknimagine]

<p>i am giving you another example and this image is kept as the original, nothing adjusted or manipulated so that you can get better idea.</p><div></div>

[logancyrus]

<p>Providing some additional info... IE shutter speed, what ISO would be more important than what lens and camera you are using. Get yourself a grey card (to shoot before you start your project) for white balance adjustments. It also looks like u need to adjust your lighting a tad to so you are illuminating the whole subject</p>

[Former P.N Member]

<p>If you could provide a picture of your setup it would help us make suggestions on how to improve the results.</p>

[Charles_Webster]

<p>Generally lighting glassware from two sides makes it look unnatural because it creates bright sides and a dark center, where when we look at a cylinder, we normally see dark sides a one bright highlight off to one side.</p>

<p>You used a fairly slow shutter (1/13) at a rather small aperture (f/9) and low ISO (100). Since you don't have a lot of light to work with, I suggest you increase your ISO to 400 or 800 which will give you a faster shutter speed and small aperture. That will help your underexposure problem. Shoot a gray card along with your subject, then use it to adjust your White Balance either in the camera with Custom WB or in post processing. Shoot RAW to have the largest possible range of adjustments.</p>

<p>Look at wine adverts in the magazines to see how they position the highlight on the bottle for help in positioning.</p>

<p>The book "Light - Science & Magic" has lots of info on how to create "bright field" illumination that would really show off your dye drops in the water.</p>

<p><Chas><br /></p>

[richard_cochran]

<p>You say the light is not sufficient and you have to brighten the image slightly by the raw converter? Why not get the exposure exactly the way you want it in the camera? I assume you want the background to be lighter than it's coming out.</p>

<p>Open up the aperture and/or slow down the shutter.</p>

<p>It really is that simple. It may be easier to do directly if you put the camera in manual, so that you have straightforward control over the aperture and shutter speed. If you insist on leaving the camera in an autoexposure mode, there's probably a way to use exposure compensation, a different metering mode, or something like that to indirectly tell the camera to open up the aperture and/or slow down the shutter.</p>

<p>If you want a different <em>quality</em> of light, things can get very complex, and you should say exactly what it is about your current light quality that you don't like, so that people can give proper guidance. But if you just want a bigger <em>quantity</em> of light, then open up the aperture and/or slow down the shutter. Opening up the aperture will have an effect on depth of field, so if you like the depth of field as it is, then just slow down the shutter.</p>

[clicknimagine]

<p>

 

<p>well first of all thanks to all my friends above for your valuable comments and suggestions it is helpful. <br>

as said above the shutter speed = 1/13, iso= 100, f9 i employed. the image was taken in RAW.</p>

<p>yes i could have used 400 to 800 iso but at the compromise of noise which can degrade the quality.</p>

<p>f9 is used because the lens can perform best at that number.</p>

<p>1/13 is used after several experiment with this set up and with the lighting condition as i used, it is the exact shutter speed which can not give lost detail in the highlighted reflection of the glass, if i use one stop longer exposure there is lost detail in that area. i use manual set up not auto.</p>

<p>today i will obviously post an image of the set up i used, after a few hours.</p>

<p>actually i am not sure whether two CFL bulbs of 36 watts each can give a standard illumination, and i am also confused with the result and placed before you for your help, what do you think is it properly illuminated? the shutter speed i used here is long exposure and i hard one of the drawbacks of long exposure is that it can produce illumination noise but not sure about this.</p>

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[ed_farmer]

<p>Glassware is difficult to light. The first thing that you should know is the it usually works best when the glass is lit from behind, not from the front. Give it a try. You shouldn't have a problem shooting at 200 or 400 with most newer cameras. 800 can be a bit trying.<br>

Good luck! Let us see more of what you are doing.<br>

Ed</p>

[greg_peterson3]

<p>I second Charles Webster's advice: "Light - Science and Magic" is the best investment you could make. If you understand the principals you'll be able to answer questions about the details yourself.</p>