A lesson of buying on ebay

[scott_murphy_photography]

<p>I have bought A LOT of camera gear on Ebay, and been fortunate to not have any problems. If there is only one or at most two photos and they are small, I always ask the seller to provide several large ones and put them on record (ebay emails) that if the item is not as advertised, I want a refund. <em><strong>Caveat emptor</strong></em> is the rule of law when dealing on Ebay.</p>

[pat_satasuk]

<p>I would avoid sellers from Hong Kong or China all together.. I too had bad experiences with these Chinese people. Be aware too if you have a good bid, the seller may fake his/her Paypal not working...Recently I won the bid for Motorola S9HD bluetooth headset. When I wanted to pay by Paypal which is the only method of payment. I get the message from Paypal that the seller account was not working. I contacted the seller but never heard back. Like the other guy said, Ebay is starting to be the place for crooked seller.</p>

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[johnw63]

<p>I have a few rules I follow.</p>

<p>1) Check to see what OTHER items the seller sells. I don't buy camera gear from some one who sells all manner of yard sale and other stuff. These folks don't know what they have, if it works, or what condition to call it.</p>

<p>2) Photos of camera gear should be large, multiples, and in FOCUS ! I don't trust some one who can't take a decent picture. Are they hiding the flaws, or are they incompetent. Either way, they don't get my business</p>

<p>3) Ask questions. Even if you don't really NEED to. The promptness and completeness of replying to e-mails is a key thing for me. When ever I have sold something, I check my e-mail many times during the day. I expect the same of good sellers.</p>

<p>4) Check for the same thing at KEH. If the price is close to KEH, I buy from the store instead. Dealing with a real vendor is worth a certain amount.</p>

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[charleseagan]

<p>My experience with ebay as been good, I expected some would not be exactly what I expected. But out of 54 purchases, only 2 have been bad. </p>

[rjacksonphoto]

<p>I've gotten great deals on Ebay. Only got an item that was not as advertised twice, one handled well by the seller and and one not. Probably purchased 90 to 100 items. I've also sold some high end items at really good prices, like a Canon XHA1 and a Hasselblad 501CM. Both were in superb condition and the buyer got an excellent deal on each of them. You just have to know what you are buying and look for good feedback, descriptions, etc.</p>

[robert_edelman1]

<p>I have had many good transactions purchasing on eBay. I have had no problems and have received excellent prices on adaptors and filters shipped from Hong Kong. I also try to be careful. I check on and read the eBay seller ratings and feedback. If someone on photo.net recommends a retailer for an accessory, for example, I will buy from that party, rather than from an unknown party. Of course there are scammers, but they exist at all levels of selling (and buying). And if something seems suspicious, I avoid it.<br>

Before I bid, I determine the maximum of what I am willing to pay, and I do not let myself get caught in the auction trap of going higher than that amount as the auction progresses. A few years ago I bid on two different lenses from two different sellers on eBay. In both situations I was the high bidder, but lost at the last minute to bidders that offered the same bid as my highest bid. I lost each of these bids because the other bidder supposedly had submitted a bid earlier than I, but I could not find this in the bidding history. In both situations, a short time after I had lost in the bidding, I was contacted by the seller, stating that the purchase had fallen through, and that I could now buy the lens at my highest bid. I suspect that this was a scam to entice me to bid higher during the auction, and since I did not go for that, they were resigned to sell the lens at my highest bid. One or both of these sellers might have been legitimate, but I did not trust the situation, and I did not buy either lens. I did report my suspicions to eBay, and I have not had a similar problem since. Ebay has also changed some of its protocols since then. I have benefitted from purchases on eBay, and I will continue to use it, with my usual caution.</p>

[jack_welsh]

<p>The only problem I had on ebay was buying a Yashica Mat 124 that appeared to be in great condition. Later, when I looked at it.The rear lens cell on the taking lens was missing.</p>

[andylynn]

<blockquote>

<p>It's the condition rating of equipment according to eBay's standards. Can't say I disagree with them - although I would prefer the description "mint minus" instead of "like new".</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I don't think it's Ebay's standards. Ebay doesn't allow you to use the phrase "like new". I sold a lens one time and listed it as "like new" (because that's what it was - it was completely indistinguishable from new, and had the box and docs) and within a few hours an Ebay admin removed it and sent me a note saying "like new" is not allowed because it confuses people who are searching for "new" items, even though I'd checked the "used" box.</p>

<p>Sheesh. It's like Ebay expects all buyers to be idiots and sets up the standards that way. But then why don't they remove weasel listings that are used but checked the "new" box or use weasel speak like "minty"? What the heck is "minty" anyway? It's mint, meaning perfect, or not mint, meaning not perfect. There's no standard for "minty" and unless it's applied to chewing gum the designation is meaningless.</p>

<p>I only buy items that have enough description of their condition and functional status so that I know that if the seller is being honest, and it's not damaged in shipping, I'll get what I want. If the seller isn't honest, or it's damaged in shipping, Paypal resolution works. I've received bad items in the past, or not received the items at all, but never lost money. I've also received great items at great prices, like my very complete RZ kit for a bit over $400, a bunch of Minolta items at stunningly low prices and some weird Chinese B&W film I never would have seen without Ebay but kind of like, and done well with selling.</p>

[george_peng1]

<p>Only started using eBay more recently, and have been relatively fortunate. Bought a Rolleflex in good condition, and a bunch of other stuff. However, most of the sellers have been large vendors with feedback in the thousands.</p>

<p>That said, the only questionable experience was buying a softbox advertised as 32x48 and finding out upon assembly that it was 32x40, so unless it stretches or something it was mislabeled. However, at the price sold, I didn't feel much of a point in quibbling so I didn't, but did note it in the feedback, as well as a mis-installed adapter speedring, etc. Otherwise, been fortunate, but also careful. Avoid buying used cameras from guys who clearly don't know what they're handling, often the pickers noted who haunt estate sales and hawk their misunderstood finds on eBay.</p>

[david_smith35]

<p>If you look at the link I posted you will find that eBay refers to the designation "LN" to mean "like new" so it must be a valid description that they allow. I still don't like it though.</p>

[ondebanks]

<p>John Williamson gives particularly good advice above. I would add:<br>

5) Check the seller's COMPLETED listings. Scammers sometimes repeatedly relist the same used item at a tantalising price every time it's already been "won" and paid for.</p>

<p>I've bought virtually my entire photographic assemblage plus several other things via ebay (several ebay domains - .com, .co.uk, .de, .fr etc.) , and living in the tiny market of Ireland, I could not have done so otherwise. In over 200 transactions, maybe 5 had some degree of problem - a couple of over-rated descriptions, a scammer (luckily a very small amount of money involved) that the UK police were after, another scammer in the US with a hijacked account selling the same used LF camera over and over again (of course I copped this and reported it to ebay...I had fun stringing that guy along in the meantime...never paid him a cent, and finally asked him if he could hear the police sirens coming for him!), and lastly a guy in Italy who tried to double the advertised EU shipping rate after the auction - I naturally refused, so the deal was cancelled.</p>

<p>I've always turned down any "second chance" offers - they may be genuine, but in my view they could be a trick whereby the seller gets his buddy to bid the price up to the genuine bidder's maximum, and then pulls out.</p>

[uzay_ki_i]

<p>I'm waiting a Nikon 180 2.8 from a top rated seller from ebay, i feel worried now after reading these posts.</p>

[derek_thornton1]

<p>Uzay, I would not worry about it. For every one bad experiance there are 50 good ones. I have bought a couple very nice lenses on ebay at great prices. I have also sold very good equipment for very low prices. My brother bought a misrepresented item from K**. It happens. At the moment the advantage goes to the buyer on ebay and if you (David) fight it you will be able to get your money back.</p>

[kerry_grim]

<p>Can you be 100% sure when purchasing over eBay the equipment has not been stolen? Does anyone think about that or worse yet...you do not care so long as you get a good deal? I guess that is possible if the sellers has the original sales slip. I have not purchased anything used. If I do, it will be from KEH only. eBaymania is not for me.</p>

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[khi]

<p>I agree with Derek. Personally, I have bought and sold camera equipment on e-bay dozens of times. I haven't had a single problem ever. I think that "common sense" is the key to using e-bay successfully. <strong><em>If the deal is too good to be true-it usually is!</em></strong></p>

[khi]

<p>I would like to add a footnote here: David, when you saw a <strong>NEW</strong> Hasselblad 503 CW camera body listed for $1k your warning light should have gone on immediately. The best thing to do is google "Hasselblad 503CW and see what the camera sells for everywhere else. I was not able to find a 503CW anywhere for less than $2500. <strong><em>"If the deal is too good to be true-it usually is!"</em></strong></p>

[manuel barrera houston,]

<p>I some times wonder if an item may be stolen, I have bought from KEH and do not recall reading that their items were guaranteed not to be stolen</p>

[ross_lipman]

<p>I have been active on Ebay since 1997 and overall I have had a good experience.<br>

Ebay is a usefull tool that should be used carefully. As a buyer, use a snipping program to automatically enter your highest bid at the last second. You don't have to sit by your computer waiting for the auction to end, everything is handled automatically and without the impulse to make 1 more bid. ALWAYS examine the description and photos carefully and dont' be afraid to ask questions if something is unclear. If you don't feel comfortable DON'T BID. Bargains are harder to find. The key is to know the market for what you are looking for so you can immediately spot a bargain.<br>

As a seller, write a clear and very detailed description. Include as many large scale, close up photos as you can. Use photobucket.com or a similar site for free hosting and then link the photos to your ad. Allow the potential buyer to really see and get a feel for the item- this is the best way to ensure you get top dollar. When you create your listing, think about it as buyer would and ask what would a buyer want that would entice them to pay top dollar for your item ?<br>

It is possible to make money through resale of locally found items and ebay arbritrage. As others have pointed out however, it can be very time consuming. My rule of thumb is a profit potential of at least $50 net of fees. It usually takes me about 3hrs total to seek out, purchase, list and ship an item. At a min, I extimate my "compensation" to be about $16/hr, or $30k per year. Buy try doing this for the equivalent of a 40hr week/ all year long ? <br>

The biggest issue I have with Ebay is that their rules are now skewed to favor the buyer. I recently received my 1st neg feedback from a buyer who tried to extort a discount. I refused and he left me a negitave. His extortion demand was delivered from his email account directly to mine, and bypassed the Ebay communication links- thus Ebay would not assist as they claimed they had no way to verify the accuracy of my claim.<br>

I do like Ebay and have known to spend hours on their site.....</p>

[david carver]

<p>Ebay is never a problem when you use paypal with a credit card. There is absolutely zero risk. If you don't like it call your credit card company and they will reverse the charges. It is that simple. I have done it without a problem.</p>

[david carver]

<p>Kerry, do you think that KEH asks for proof of ownership before they buy from the public? It is the same thing as EBAY except you have a middleman and higher prices. I assume that most people are honest. </p>

[john_robison3]

<p>Ebay standards? I always thought their standards were to get their fees first and then, perhaps, deal with bad dealers. My 'no go' on sellers items are based on their statements. Such as;</p>

<p>"I don't know much about cameras" = it's broken</p>

<p>"Looks OK but I haven't tested it" = it's broken</p>

<p>" The buttons click and the wheels turn" = it's broken</p>

<p>"Lens looks OK to me" = 'I keep at least 6 feet away from anything with fungus in it' also, it's broken</p>

<p>There can be a few good deals. Bid what it's worth to you and don't check it again until the auction ends. If you win, you win. If you lost, walk away try again. One strange factor is bundled sales. I looked and looked for a Zuiko 200mm f5, a very small and light telephoto. The 200mm f4 is common but I wanted the light weight and 49mm filter size to match my other Zuikos. The few f5 lenses that showed up always went higher than my top bid. That was until a seller had the f5 and a 28~80 Soligor bundled in the same auction. For some reason bidders say in effect 'well see here, I only want the one lens' and don't bid. I got the combo for $36 shipped, gave the Soligor to a friend of little means who has an OM, and now have my cargo pocket long lens.</p>

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[qtao]

<p>I like ebay, I had 170 transactions on ebay. 3 bad experiences, but all with full amount refund. first talk to the seller, if problem not solved, go to dispute. I had one transaction, the camera lens is labled NO RETURN, but the glass condition is not as described, the seller refused to accept return. I contacted ebay, got this problem solved by full refund. <br>

I think ebay is a place to make good deal, but you need to be 1. carefully select what you are going to buy and the condition. 2. don't be upset when you get something not as you expect. 3. unless nothing can solve your problem, then go to contact dispute center. </p>

[sven_felsby]

<p>got a mint (in its true sense) Nikkor 35/1.4 AIS for 300$ on eBay. Can afford to lose some $ on that account.<br>

eBay is like the rest of the world: mostly decent people and a couple of jerks trying to pull it off.</p>

[jim_howerton]

<p>In the past 2 weeks I purchased 16 items from E-Bay at a cost of $1500. Not 1 problem. Some even came<br>

from Japan/China . All were properly described and with good research, good deals. I now have a really<br>

complete Mamiya Press kit and a bunch of accessories for my DSLR's. Couldn't be happier.</p>

[jeffrey_synn]

<p>I've conducted hundreds of purchases on eBay over many years. As long as you are picky with choosing your sellers, you can largely avoid problems. Feedback and seller knowledge is everything.</p>

<p>Feedback: 100% or very close to it is the standard. If they are high volume (feedback in the thousands, hundreds of current listings), 99.9% and 99.5% are very different animals. If they are low volume, forgive the percentages a little since even 1 negative is a big percentage change for them. Either way, read the feedback, even the positives. Look for hiccups: late shipments, misrepresentation, poor packing, slow communication. EBay discourages non-positive feedback so some positives can be veiled negatives.</p>

<p>Seller knowledge: If they imply they don't know, then assume it sucks. If they can't or won't provide additional pictures on request, they are misrepresenting the item, don't have it themselves somehow or are providing poor service--any of which are not good. If they only have stock images, they had better be a retailer.</p>

<p>Do your homework on the seller and never overbid. Choose a reliable and traceable shipping method to avoid the "it's in the mail" excuse. And mind the dispute deadline--45 days from date of payment. The dispute process is biased toward the buyer so take advantage of it.</p>