Its time to enter the 21st Century - Move from 35mm to DSLR

[thomas_sullivan]

<p>I use Lightroom for all my editting....exept the final sharpenning, which I use the Smart Sharpen in Photoshop CS3 (latest version is CS4). However, you could probably get a really good sharpenning plug in to work alone or from within Lightroom. I also shoot all my stuff in RAW.</p>

<p>As far as sensor size.....not the megapixels, but the actual size of the sensor....there is a huge difference between crop cams (ie 1.6x) and full frame. And your 16x20 inch print size expectation is exactly where it starts to make a difference. Especially if you have to crop the image in the photo editor.....even just minimal composition type cropping. I'd go with the 5D or the 5DMKII if I were you. Also, your 'scape pics usually require wide angle lenses, I assume. To get a 28mm lens (regular 35mm film format) angle of coverage with a 1.6 crop cam, you need a 17mm lens for the same angle of coverage. If you need more wide angle lenses than telephoto....the 5D will pay for itself real soon, especially if you like the superwides like 24mm and 20mm. The full frame cams like the 5D keep the same coverage as 35mm film cams.</p>

<p>For reference, I own the Canon 20D and the Canon 5D....and the difference in resolution at larger print sizes is definitely noticeable. I also had an extended use of the Canon 40D...and it was, in my opinion, only slightly, resolution wise, better than the 20D. The 40D came no where's even close to my 5D.....let alone what I've seen from the 5DMKII (altho I did not actually shoot with the 5DMKII.....just saw a competent friend's images).</p>

<p>and again, for reference, I also shoot 35mm film, 6x4.5, 6x6, and 6x7. Only the 5D matches or comes close to my medium format images. The 20D does not.</p>

<p>As far as image stabilization.....if you are doing landscapes/cityscapes you are probably using a tripod any how. It is actually recommended to turn image stabilization OFF when on a tripod. So, I think maybe it won't matter in your case. Regardless, some people like IS in the cam, some like it in the lens. It's interesting to note that the top two manufacturers, Nikon and Canon, choose to put it in the lens. Whether that actually means anything is beyond my knowledge.....but......</p>

<p>So, in the end I'd advise you to get the Canon 5D, Lightroom, and Photoshop CS4 (or at least a good sharpenning plug in for lightroom, or stand alone sharpenning program) and shoot ALL your landscape/cityscape in RAW. You won't be disappointed.</p>

[Jim_Dockery_Photos]

<p>I'd also think about budgeting some for a new computer. The funny thing about digital is that you'll sometimes spend more time editing than you do shooting, so a good computer <strong>really</strong> helps (think of it like your darkroom). I also have an older G4 (dual 800 with 4 gigs of ram) which runs CS3 OK, but is dog slow for work with larger images, or for panoramas, which is one of the fun things to do with digital. I got a new Mac Pro a couple years ago and was simply amazed at the improvement. Even the new iMacs will run circles around that old G4 and you'll want to max out the ram (third party, not from Apple). A good large monitor is also very nice (the new 27" iMac is gorgeous). A large external hard drive for back-ups is also important.</p>

<p>As others have suggested Photoshop as the standard all others are measured against, and is what I use, but Elements does almost all of what a photographer wants.</p>

[mattb1]

<p>While the crop cameras do a great job, I'd suggest sticking to FF. The areas that crop sensors excell in don't seem to match your needs. If you are not sure about spending the money on a 5D MkII, see if you can find a first gen 5D. If you need top line weatherproofing, AF or a tank of a camera then look at the 1D line. Then invest in good glass.</p>

<p>The FF issue may be less important than finding a good system, but since you have experience with Canon you may find the Canons more natural. While you will not be disapointed with a crop sensor body, I'd think you would get more out of a FF.</p>

<p>I kind of agree that IS is not a big deal for what you say is your preferred subjects. IS works great for low light with subjects that are not moving, or very long telephoto. Otherwise it is more useful to get fast lenses IMO. IS in the body is not a selling point for me.</p>

<p>I'd try lightroom and see if that covers all your needs, it may be all you need.</p>

[stephen_asprey2]

<p>Too much.....<br>

The basics:<br>

DSLR $2000<br>

New lenses $2000<br>

Photoshop etc $800<br>

Scanner/Printer $500<br>

Welcome to the expensive world of digital photography.</p>

[Andy Collins]

<p>As others have said, there are a lot of really good cameras to choose from but I think that your choice of the 40D is a superb one. It's a solid, well thought out camera with proven performance, and certainly one that you can grow into. Congratulations on a great choice and welcome to the wonderful world of digital photography. Don't get rid of that AE-1 though; film is still a great medium and sometimes provides a nice change from digital. Both can live happily in your camera bag, even in the 21st century.</p>

[dan_south]

<p>Regarding software.</p>

<p>Lightroom his an intiutive interface (for the most part). You can sit down and get reasonable results with it right away. The bad news is that the upcoming LR3 won't run on older (non-Intel) Macs.</p>

<p>Photoshop is extremely powerful and capable, but learning to use it is like learning to fly the space shuttle. Plan on speding a LOT of time with books and tutorials, talking classes, or hanging around with friendly PS experts in your area.</p>

<p>I've never tried Apple's Aperture, but I've heard good things about it.</p>

<p>To start with you can use Canon's Image Viewer and DPP (they come with the camera). They're extremely rudimental, however. Nikon's software suite is a bit better but nowhere near as powerful as Lr or Ps.</p>

<p>Remember to budget for a couple of external disk drives. My old G4 crashed and died a few months ago. Luckily, I had started doing all of my photo work on Firewire drives (the G4 was out of space), so I didn't lose any images. You need an extra drive for off-site backups, too. Keep it at another location. (home versus studio, a friend or associate's place, etc.). How many images can you afford to lose forever?</p>

<p>As someone mentioned, the new iMacs work beautifully for photo editing, cataloguing.</p>

<p>Extra batteries and memory cards are critical for travel. If you change lenses frequently, plan to have the sensor cleaned periodically. Dirt gets in there no matter how careful you are.</p>

<p>Good luck, and welcome to the 21st C.</p>

 

[michael_klapp1]

<p>Hey Guys,</p>

<p>Again, thanks for all the great info! Well, the choice seems to be back up in the air. I was up til the wee hours of the AM researching and window shopping. I'll definately be staying with the Canon family. Its a personal preference, and there's just noting out there that's impressive enough to make me switch. I think I'll start looking for a used 5D or maybe a used 5DmkII if one pops up. I'll most likely stick with the prime lenses, as if forces you to move around and try different things. </p>

<p>Thomas, thanks for the info, didn't really think about the $ trade off when it came to the lenses. Might as well run with the 5D. I do work with a lot of wide angle stuff, did some research, and you're right the lenses to compensate for the 1.6x crop are pretty pricey (for the really good stuff).</p>

<p>All that being said, I think I'll bite the bullet and get into the CS4 and the wife is running a new MacBook, so I might have to confiscate it for a while until I'm ready for a new computer.</p>

<p>Thanks again everyone, keep the input coming!</p>

<p>Mike</p>

 

[roger_smith4]

<p>For used I'd go with B&H or keh.com. I bought a used 20D from B&H in excellent condition and a used Tamron 17-50 from KEH which is a wonderful lens. It's hard to find wide angle primes that work on crop sensor Canons, and the Tamron does a decent job at 17mm (about 28mm equivalent). </p>

<p>I recommend Lightroom over Photoshop for speed and convenience if you can only afford one.</p>

[iwao_sakurai]

<p>"""Too much.....<br />The basics:<br />DSLR $2000<br />New lenses $2000<br />Photoshop etc $800<br />Scanner/Printer $500<br />Welcome to the expensive world of digital photography."""<br>

Not to sound alarming or anything but there are so many other ways to take photographs than the bandwagong DSLR route. Being in the 21st century gives us more options. ALt process, pin-hole, Medium format, ULF, digital NEG etc...<br>

May I add to this list of cost:<br>

A computer at minimum $1000, backup drives $300, memory cards $100,<br>

Reoccuring costs (not including camera of course): Computer, Ink, Paper, Software and almost everything else.<br>

I recently switched back to film due to low cost and simplicity. Film, processing (half of which I do on my own) and paper. Got myself a beautifull Leica R9 like new fully manual camera with an Apo macro Elmarit 100/F2for $2000. Mostly do fine art, I'm not tied up to speed, deadlines, "latest technology" like most people. I like simplicity and challenge.</p>

<p> </p>

[michael_klapp1]

<p>Hey Iwao,</p>

<p>You make some really great points, however, the convenience of using the computer v. the dark room (I love the dark room btw, just no room for it or the equipment and chemicals) is a pretty big plus for me. I still and still will shoot 35mm transparencies, but want the versatility of doing what I want when I want.<br>

Don't worry AE-1 is still gonna be in the game!</p>

<p>Mike</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>I really don't think that a "full frame" (aka 35mm sensor) camera is necessary. I have a 20D, an XTi, and a 5D and I don't see as much difference up to 13x19" as some others above apparently do. In my case, it was my old legacy PC-Nikkor 35mm lens that prompted the move to the 5D, just before Canon finally solved the problem of perspective control on the APS-C bodies with the new TS-E 17mm (which I could <em>not</em> afford right now anyhow). The larger sensor is nice, of course. If you go that direction, see if you can find it with its "kit" lens, the EF 24-105mm IS L lens which is very nice indeed.<br /> The best intersection of value and performance right now is a 40D.</p>

<p>I've had good luck on eBay, but you do have to watch your step. It's a giant flea market, but most people to my astonishment seem to be honest and fair.<br /> Only two bad eggs in over 450 purchases of old cameras, lenses, and gear; and one of them came through with a refund six months later.</p>

[monte_johnson]

<p>Micheal, I would invest in another I Mac 1200.00. Photoshop Elements 80.00 And If a Dslr is not important to you a GF1 would be great around 1000.0. Total cost around 2300.00. I have a older Mac but bought the newer old because you cannot upgrade to newer software and I found that to be a problem. I love my LX3 but I believe that should not be your only camera. Good luck.</p>

[michael_klapp1]

<p>Ha Ha Ha! Just pulling out all the X-mas decorations today and in looking for some surge protectors for the lights I happened across an old Mac CD Case. What did I find . . . . . . Photoshop 7.0 and Elements 2.0. Yeah, they're pretty old, but free is never bad. Just installed them both.</p>

<p>Any thoughts for me on how to use these? Anyone still using these fossils?</p>

<p>Mike</p>

[john_jennings2]

<p>I am an old film guy who has finally been dragged kicking and screaming into digital. My family bought me the entry level Nikon D3000 (street price $499 with kit lens) and I have been very happy. Wish I did it a lot sooner. I still carry film camera as backup (Bessa R2 with 35mm lens and Fujichrome.) I think you should just jump in, maybe give Canon serious consideration since that is what you got. If you are serious about landscape, you might need to look for higher pixel count.<br />Just jump in, the water's fine!</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>There is an update to 7.01 available for Photoshop 7 along with some other patches, even still from Adobe (go to <a href="http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/product.jsp?product=39&platform=Macintosh">link</a> and scroll waay down to version 7, bless Adobe for still keeping this up). Your machine should also run with the latest updates for OS X 10.4 ( at Apple support and there are some recent general security updates that are probably good to have, you can use the update function on the OS to get the updates too).</p>

<p>As for instructions, you are in the territory of old computer books. Usually there is nothing so useless as an old computer book, but on Amazon or elsewhere look for used (or new) Photoshop 7 how-to-do books. I've not got any of my old ones available, but stuff from Wiley (the Bible series) and from Pogue Press (O'Reilly) are usually pretty good.</p>