Tripod head recommendations please

[david_waugh3]

<p>Sorry to post a "what should I buy" question, but I really value the advice here.  I have been almost exclusively hand holding my 500cm to date, but am really beginning to see the benefits of using a tripod.  I would like to do some more 'semi candid' portrait stuff and have been thiking about a better tripod 'system'.</p>

 

<p>I have an older Manfrotto 055 and am thinking of getting the 322rc pistol grip and a nice shutter release.  I figure it will allow me to be fairly quick to react but still get benefit of a more stable platform.  Basically I'd like to be able to shoot the 150mm @ 125th but the main reason is that I want to take advantage more of the WLF and communicate more with people.  I just think it will be easier with the tripod.  Anyway I am blabbing... any thoughts on the 322 head?  I only use the 80mm and 150mm.</p>

 

<p>And whilst I am here (really sorry for the multiple questions) can someone please tell me if the 503c with it's palpas coasting is worth it... not fussed on TTL flash metering (at least not for now) but have heard the coating can make for a slightly quieter camera... also have read that it can cause more problems than what it's worth as it wears quickly... any thoughts?  Would like a second body one day soon, and there are a couple of cx's that go for about 20% more than the 500cm.</p>

 

<p>Thanks very much.<br>

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 </p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

<p>I think about tripods as things that provide a steady platform, and don't really know why a tripod head would need a camera trigger. So i use nice firm and steady heads, that keep the camera rock solid.<br />But i don't do lots of follow-the-action photography (none at all, in fact), so i'm not one to comment. Sorry!</p>

<p>Palpas does not make the camera any quieter to a degree that would make it a deciding factor. (I have noticed that different models, even same models made at different times, produce a slightly different sound, but it never struck me that one was quieter than another).<br />It's effect on image contrast by reducing internal reflections is also not very big (if there is any at all - which i'd gladly believe there is, under certain circumstances. Can't say i have noticed any though), so i would also not count that as a deciding factor.</p>

<p>Palpas does crack, yes. But that's not a problem. If it ever would crumble a bit, it's easy enough to clean the debris out of the camera. No harm done.</p>

<p>So decide on the different features different models offer. The other major consideration is condition.<br />If to be used purely as a back up, another 500 C/M in good condition would do fine.<br />But getting a second body also is an opportunity to complement what you have with features you do not have. So myself, i would look at the larger mirrored 501 CM or 503 CW as a second camera, to be used alongside a 500 C/M. The 503 CW, or 503 CX for it's TTL flash.<br />But yes: pointless and a waste of money if you don't need or want those features.</p>

[david_waugh3]

<p>Thanks QG - appreciate it. I am thinking of the trigger purely because I try and control the 'space' but not the pose - so they move around a bit ;-) I should also say I am just a beginner, so I probably have no idea as well! But that's the theory behind it for me anyway.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

<p>Being a beginner (not something to be apologetic about) doesn't mean your thinking isn't up to scratch. And (without being patronizing) i certainly think your thinking is good.<br />It's just not something i do, move the camera about while shooting with the thing on a tripod. Which just disqualifies me, as not suited to comment on the tripod head thing. Just wanted to let you know that, instead of just (bluntly?) ignoring the tripod head part of your question. ;-)</p>

[jpo3136b]

<p>I know this is not real sophisticated, but I saw one of those, and they struck me as being more for video. There was something about that pistol grip bit that just seemed like it would be unwieldy when it was bearing some camera equipment. </p>

<p>It seemed to me like it would like a ball and pan head whose positioning would be complicated by leverage. I don't know this certainly, because I have never used one; but, I took one look at that design and went back to looking at more traditional equipment.</p>

[m_allegretta]

<p>I use the Manfrotto 3265 ball grip. I am comfortable with it when leveling or pointing the Hasselblad camera and a short lens. I think the 322 head is a better idea; it will be more stable because the camera sits closer to the ball and safer when using a longer lens. But, the side handle may interfere with your hand when winding. So, moving the handle to the left of the camera will be better.<br />All my Hasselblads bodies have cracks in the Palpas; no other problems. They will work great, Palpas or Not.</p>

[lolver]

<p>I have one of those heads, I used it with a Nikon D200 but after a while found its operation annoying and went for a decent ball head (an Acratech).<br>

While that's a subjective comment I second m allegretta's commment about it interfering - it's a right-handed device and the handle will protrude directly underneath your 500CM in the path of your winding.</p>

[oskar_ojala]

<p>Manfrotto's pistol grip heads have never given me the impression of being particularly stable. I use an Arca Swiss Z1 ball head, it's great; moves smoothly, head doesn't flop, holds heavier equipment well, good tension adjustment.</p>

[jeff.grant]

<p>I had one years ago. It would probably be OK for a Hasselblad but useless when tilted for anything with a bit of weight. With a little practice, I think that an Arca or RRS ballhead would be good as both have friction adjustments and only need a quick twist to lock them. With a cable release, and a steady hand you could probably get good results without locking the ball at all. The camera with a 150 isn't very heavy.<br>

Tripod heads aren't things that you change often, It took me a while before I bit the bullet and bought an Arca B1 but I have never regretted it. I probably have an Arca plate or 2 for the V series hanging around that you could have if you go that way.</p>

 

[david_waugh3]

<p>Thanks for the info everyone. Appreciate the very kind offer Jeff, but I think I am going to try the 322 despite those Arca heads look extremely nice. Your point about not necessarily needing to lock the ball is a good one though, and I'll try that first using my existing ball head (which is a bit too light). If that works well, then I would be better off with a high quality head like the Arca. It would certainly make fine tuning easier for landscapes etc. over the 322.</p>

[oskar_ojala]

<p>Locking the position is a somewhat relative concept with a high quality ballhead such as an Arca; the friction is merely adjusted higher. There is a point where the friction is enough to keep the camera from moving without a clear push and if the camera is relatively level then that's fairly easy to accomplish and adjustment is easy without changing the friction.</p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>With a good ball head, you can set up just enough tension to keep the camera steady, yet still able to move and point the camera with your hand on the shutter release and eye in the viewfinder. In fact, that ability is what makes ball heads more desirable than 3-way heads for most people. Only a relatively expensive ball head will do this without annoying slip-stick action. Really cheap heads (e.g., pistol grip heads) are either on or off (and not ever exactly "on" either).</p>

<p>That's not the way to get the sharpest pictures, however. For that you need to tighten the head, let vibrations settle and use a cable release. With an Hasselblad it's also a good idea to pre-release the mirror - you get less vibration at the time of exposure, and often a lighter release.</p>

[david_waugh3]

<p>Thanks for the advice - seems like a good ball head will do what I need, and cover more bases than the 322. Will look into them today. Much appreciated everyone.</p>

[greg_campbell1]

<p>I've used the 322RC2 with my Bronicasaur 6x6 and liked it a lot.<br>

The 322 allows you to 'reverse' the handle direction. I found this very convenient: The left hand maintains a hold on the grip and loosens the ball when necessary, while the right hand steadies the camera, winds the film, etc.</p>

 

[michael_dimarzio]

<p>"Bronicasaur" hahaha not good, a GREAT ONE!</p>