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Rangefinder daydreams


james_ashby

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<p>I shot with F3hp for years and needed a smaller camera for a business trip to Italy in the mid-90s. I wanted a M-6, but preferred the autoexposure and faster handling of the Contax G2, not to mention the cheaper price. I subsequently bought additional lenses and bodies. </p>

<p>What did surprise me was that my shooting was substantially different with the rangefinder. I didn't expect that to change, just the size of my cameras and lenses. But as a naturally shy person with an SLR, I felt removed from the scene, an observer. With a rangefinder I felt more part of things, more able to stick an unobtrusive camera in someone's face. My shooting spontaneity increased immensely. I'm not sure the pictures were better, but I had more fun creating them. Now I'm back with a DSLR, but truly covet a digital Contax G2 or with big money, an M-9.</p>

<p>I'd recommend you try it. From my experience, I doubt Salgado would have gotten the same photos with an SLR.</p>

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<p>1)The rangefinders teach you to see things differently, and take photos differently, you might benefit from this idea:<br>

<a href="http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2009/05/a-leica-year.html">http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2009/05/a-leica-year.html</a></p>

<p>2) For street photography, lenses in the 28-50 mm range work best. For what you want to do, in my opinion the best buys are:<br>

- one of the 28mm CV Ultrons<br>

28/2 Ultron, 1/15th f 2.0 Tri X EI 400:<br>

<a href=" 20093331

- the 35/1.2 CV Nokton<br>

35/1.2 Nokton, 1/30tj f 1.2 Tri X EI 1000:<br>

<a href=" 20090123

- the 50/1.1 Nokton<br>

50/1.1 Nokton, 1/60th f 1.4 Tri X EI 1000:<br>

<a href=" 20095812

<p>For the low light rig nothing beats the Zeiss Ikon ZM with the 35/1.2 Nokton, but other cameras and lenses can work well too, The Bessas R2/3/4A are best value for money for street shooting.</p>

 

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<p>I have both a Canon F-1 and Leica M2. The Leica is nearly the same weight, and almost as large. The Canon is easier and faster by a mile to operate for me. This sounds like a case of "the grass is greener" to me. And BTW--I consider my F-1 easily the equal in quality as the Leica, although I'd admit there is something magic about my 90 Summicron.<br>

Don't get suckered into believing that trading an F-1 for an RF will suddenly make you stealthy.</p>

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<p>I have quite a few cameras (as most people here do), and I know what you mean about the F1. It's big, heavy, and the shutter is quite loud. Those drawbacks are a small price to pay in exchange for the reliability and solid performance of the F1. I use my F1 from time to time, but generally for landscapes and citiyscapes, as my collection of FD glass is heavy on the wider angles.<br>

Rangefinders are interesting cameras, and the one I usually carry now is an old Leica III with a Summitar lens. It's small, not particularly heavy, and nearly silent in operation. It takes quite good pictures, so long as I have it properly focused and adjusted. I typically set up my camera in expectation of the conditions I will encounter, pre-focusing the lens to the distance which I prefer to shoot my subject. Sometimes though, conditions sometimes change, and things don't always turn out as you expect.<br>

The best fast-action rangefinder would be the auto-focus Contax G1 or G2. The prices on these cameras are coming down quite a bit recently. Here in Japan you can now find G1 kits with 2 lenses for around $400, and similar G2 kits for around $600. I tried out a G2 last week, and I'm sorely tempted to pick one up. Considering their quality, and the high price they demanded when they were introduced, they are an incredible bargain right now.<br>

I've found that some SLR cameras lend themselves very well to candid and street photography. My favorite cameras in this line are the Olympus OM cameras, and the Pentax ME/MX. These cameras are as small (or smaller) than some of the popular rangefinders, offer built-in metering, and fast focusing. The camera I never leave home without is my Olympus OM4Ti. It's dimensions and weight are comparable to the early Leica rangefinders, and somewhat lighter than the M series rangefinders. I find the inexpensive Zuiko 50/1.8 as good or better than any 50mm Leica lens I have used (and I have a few in my collection). Leica does not make a camera which has as good a viewfinder as the OM4, and there are few cameras available at any price, old or new, which come with as good a meter as the OM4. The OM cameras are not as whisper-quiet as Leicas, but they are much quieter than an F1.<br>

That said, I still love Leicas, and plan to get myself an(nother) M6 for Christmas.</p>

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<p>Thanks again team!<br>

Marek your photos are wicked, and i especially liked the leica year link (pretty much telling me what i want to hear! haha). Maybe its that magic that people talk about, the "glow" or whatever that makes me want to try one out (grass is greener etc), but, if i brought an M2, not likely to depreciate a whole lot...<br>

Perhaps i will just save for my roll or two of Tri-X a week (2010 will be the year of the photo) and if the opportunity to use a Leica comes up, or a cheap good rangefinder slaps me in the face i'll pounce.<br>

Opinions much appreciated, but feel free to keep trying to swing me either way!!<br>

Cheers<br>

James</p>

 

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<p>Shooting with a Leica M-series or other traditional rangefinder film camera is a different experience than shooting with an SLR, DSLR or compact digital camera. For those willing to make the effort to learn how to use the equipment properly, RF photography can be direct and enjoyable, particularly for taking environmental portraits and candid photos under available light conditions. </p>

<p>While RFs and SLRs are both cameras, and I have nothing against SLRs, I agree with other comments that using an RF can lead one to take a somewhat different approach than using an SLR. RFs tend to be smaller and slightly less noticeable and obtrusive than SLRs. RF shutters tend to be somewhat quieter than SLRs, and one continues to see the subject without the momentary blackout caused by the SLR mirror moving out of the way. Due to the absence of mirror slap, one can often get usable hand-held photos with a RF camera at 1/30 sec., compared with say 1/60 sec. for SLRs.</p>

<p>While Leicas, especially new ones, can be on the expensive side, it is not necessary to spend a lot of money to find out whether RF photography is appealing. One low-budget approach, suggested above, might be to buy a 1970s rangefinder camera such as an Olympus 35SP or a Canonet QL17 and try shooting a few rolls of film with it. Granted, the equipment won't be up to Leica standards, but this would at least give one a general sense of whether RF photography in general is to one's taste without breaking the bank.</p>

<p>A somewhat more expensive approach, but still more affordable than current-production Leica equipment, would be to buy an older used Leica, such as an M2, one or two used lenses, and a handheld light meter, from a reputable outfit such as KEH, and try shooting a few rolls of film with this setup. There are many lens choices available for Leica M bodies, including not only Leitz (Leica) M-mount lenses but older Leitz, Canon and Nikkor LTM (Leica thread mount) lenses and Voigtlander LTM lenses using bayonet adapters. The Leitz Summicron 35mm f/2 (which has been made in at least five different versions over the years), Leitz Summicron 50mm f/2, Canon 35mm f/2 LTM, Canon 50mm f/1.4 LTM, and Nikkor 85mm f/2 LTM lenses all have good reputations for optical and mechanical quality. Such equipment could be traded in for newer and more expensive Leica equipment when one's personal budget allows; or would be readily sellable if RF photography turned out not to be to your personal taste.</p>

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<p>I'm not sure what's wrong with an F-1 with an 85 f1.2 L, other than the noisy shutter and mirror-flip. The F-1 is a relatively small SLR body, and the 85 is a very, very fine lens, especially useful if you're doing street shots at night. Some shooters find the old-time basic SLRs to be easier to use on the street than rangefinders -- the M3's bright and open viewfinder, probably the best of the M series, doesn't stand up that of the Nikon F or the Leicaflex SL. Canon L lenses are first class. Leica's might be better, but not at all apertures or for all uses. </p>

<p>If you're looking for something <em>really</em> small and unintrusive, <em>really</em> light, you could get a nice IIIf with a collapsible Summicron or Elmar for less than $1,000. They look like a toy throwaway camera to many people, very friendly. They take nice pictures, too.</p>

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<p>I would suggest that you try the Graflex or Crown Graphic.<br>

It is large format, using 4"X5" negatives.<br>

Use it for about 3 to 6 months, and you'll be set up for life, because you have to do everything manually, you even have to insert the film manually (unless you use an expensive quick-loader). It will make you understand every step of the process and when you come back, you'll be able to handle any camera, range finder or whatever.<br>

Some Graphic models have range finders, try not to use it but focus on the ground glass, or better still, try to guess the distance, or use a rope with knots at one foot intervals, and use that to measure distance.<br>

There is a huge database of resources on the Large Format Forum.</p>

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<p>Hi, I think Nee's suggestion is outstanding. I would have suggested a Rolleiflex, basically for the same reasons: it forces a slow, systematic approach. You only get 12 shots a film, you focus on a big screen from a distance, setting shutter and diaphragm is a deliberate process. And you never get to worry about which lens to use. And that's a big plus, if only for budgetary considerations...<br>

But an old Leica, by all means. The screwmount Leicas don't have coupled RFs (not such a big deal I think), and are incredibly small. And the lenses are terrific. I have a IIc really, really small, and black), a IIIf and an M2. Apart from practical considerations (like film loading), I tend to consider them all as in the same class.<br>

Good luck!</p>

 

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<p>Hi, I think Nee's suggestion is outstanding. I would have suggested a Rolleiflex, basically for the same reasons: it forces a slow, systematic approach. You only get 12 shots a film, you focus on a big screen from a distance, setting shutter and diaphragm is a deliberate process. And you never get to worry about which lens to use. And that's a big plus, if only for budgetary considerations...<br>

But an old Leica, by all means. The screwmount Leicas don't have coupled RFs (not such a big deal I think), and are incredibly small. And the lenses are terrific. I have a IIc really, really small, and black), a IIIf and an M2. Apart from practical considerations (like film loading), I tend to consider them all as in the same class.<br>

Good luck!</p>

 

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<p>Hi, I think Nee's suggestion is outstanding. I would have suggested a Rolleiflex, basically for the same reasons: it forces a slow, systematic approach. You only get 12 shots a film, you focus on a big screen from a distance, setting shutter and diaphragm is a deliberate process. And you never get to worry about which lens to use. And that's a big plus, if only for budgetary considerations...<br>

But an old Leica, by all means. The screwmount Leicas don't have coupled RFs (not such a big deal I think), and are incredibly small. And the lenses are terrific. I have a IIc really, really small, and black), a IIIf and an M2. Apart from practical considerations (like film loading), I tend to consider them all as in the same class.<br>

Good luck!</p>

 

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<p>I'm currently having a lot of fun with my Fuji GSW690iii, the "Texas Leica" r/f. With Mamiya 6's [not the postwar folders] starting at $1100, I rethought my position and found a good one on ebay.<br /> I've shot with other 35 r/fs: Yashica Lynx 14, Leica CL, Olympus 35RC which are fun, fun, fun, and in different contexts.</p>
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<p>Hi James,</p>

<p>I've been in love with the Leica system since I first touched one in college. Last summer I managed to get my hands on an M2 with the MR4 light meter in an online auction site (not eBay FYI). And it is a beauty. I come from a line of Yashicas (FX-3) Nikons (FM2/D90) and even a Leica SLR (R6), all of which have seen at least 2 rolls a week for the past 4 years or so. Hands down, my fave to use is the M2.</p>

<p>However, that being said, it is VERY expensive. Especially the lenses. I got a deal on a 35mm f/2.0 4V for 1000USD online. Second hand, but in impeccable shape. </p>

<p>A rangefinder WILL change the way you see photographs. The fact that you can see everything that is coming and going out of your frame, and you can SEE the EXACT moment the picture is taken because there is no black-out, changes the game completely.</p>

<p>There are other alternatives however. The reason I use a Leica is because I love the authentic feel of the brass and the weight of the body. Its the PERFECT mechanical companion to ANYONE. The body balances out when you have it around your neck in a way you'd think it would float. But that never lets me forget the first rangefinder I used, the Yashica Electro GSN. The beauty of this camera is that its aperture priority. All you have to do is set the aperture, and the camera figures out exposures for you. It has a CdS chip that is pretty accurate, even when shooting in front of the sun or back lit and such. The glass quality is pretty decent, and when you stop it down, its gorgeous. And because its electronic, its actually quieter than my M2. Sometimes its so quiet I don't think it took the picture because I don't hear the click the shutter, which, btw, is a leaf shutter in the lens, as opposed to a curtain in the camera body. </p>

<p>The only down side is that this camera won't work with anything higher than 1000 ISO because of the electronics. I can get around that by setting it to flash mode. At flash mode it shoots at 1/60, and I just adjust my film and aperture to that. In theory, you can get a full 4 stop range with the aperture only, so you can really use any film you like. And I got mine for dirt cheap, only 12USD. </p>

<p>The GSN needs a 5.6V mercury battery that isn't made anymore, but you can get around because the camera can take up to 6V. What I did was get 4 1.5V button battery, tape them together and pop them in with lots of foil so the contact is made. And it works fantastically. I even bought my girlfriend one of them because they are such a fun camera to use. </p>

<p>Stay within budget. I know what budget means for a student, and spending it on film and development/scanning is worth much more than the camera. Especially if you have a deadline.</p><div>00Uv8O-186793684.jpg.51536fd32b16438a69fed12b8379fcf2.jpg</div>

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<p>Although a lot of street photography is done with rangefinders, not all photographers use them. One photographer that comes to mind is Don McCullin, an English war/street photographer. He would wander around with SLRs clanking from both shoulders making no effort to hide what he was doing. His approach is much more interactive, talking to the people he photographs. It's a different approach, but in many ways more honest than the rangefinder way.</p>

<p>Regards</p>

<p>Alan</p>

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<p>Hi James<br>

The market will soon be floated with inexpensive M8 cameras, because many Leica users will buy the new M9 and sell their old M8. I am M8 user, and I am very happy with that. You can buy second hand lenses of very high quality and about 1/3 of the price. The second hand market is very big. So just wait some months.<br>

I use my M8 at night with a 50 mm f 1,4 at night or even a 28 mm f 2. That does not make me a good photografer. But it works, and it gives me a lot of fun.<br>

Tommy</p>

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