Gimball or a Grip Action Ball Head for wildlife photo?

[jacques c pelletier]

<p>I have been doing some serious, but not professional, wildlife/nature photo for a few years and I find that the tripod I use might work better with a " grip handle" such as the Manfrotto 322RC2 Horizontal Grip Action Ball head.<br />This is where I saw it: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-322RC2-Horizontal-Action-Connect/dp/B000184N22">http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-322RC2-Horizontal-Action-Connect/dp/B000184N22</a><br />and it looks quite simple and "fast" to use.<br />I presently have a Velbon Sherpa Pro CF-537 and they have this sort of tripod head which I was considering as well (the PHD-61Q): <a href="http://www.velbon.co.uk/newvelbon/pages/3wayhead.html">http://www.velbon.co.uk/newvelbon/pages/3wayhead.html</a><br />To be honest, I have not used this excellent tripod of mine enough, maybe because I find the present head rather awkward. (i.e.: the one supplied with the tripod)<br />Then, there is the Gimbal tripod head, made specifically for larger lenses. I do use a Pentax DA* 300mm F4 with, occasionally, a 1.4x T.C. Although this is a "compact" telephoto lens (it is light enough I think) I might soon enough get a 300 f2.8 or maybe 400mm, hence the weight and bulk will be dramatically increased.<br>

Anyone here doing wildlife (especially bird photo) photography using such a Grip Action Handle and/or the Gimball?<br>

Thanks for any feedback.</p>

[craig_gillette]

<p>I haven't tried the side handle version. I happen to have the vertical pistol grip head. It's great for snapping into lock when released. High end ball heads and gimbals allow for the rig to be set for easy movement, but tension/balance holds it in place when released. The grip action heads require you to continuously squeeze the grips when moving. So the more you need to move and adjust things, the more hand strength and endurance is needed.</p>

<p>Also, because of the small ball size, the grip heads are limited to lighter camera/lens combinations.</p>

<p> </p>

[Ed_Ingold]

<p>Grip action heads are nearly worthless for any kind of photography. They are items that look attractive to raw beginners, but quickly find their way to the back of the closet. The ball is too small for smooth use and holding power. The clamping action is by spring only, which also limits the holding power. The distance from ball to lens is large, so that there is a large over-center effect if you tilt the camera (which stresses the holding power). The worst charge is that they are either "tight" or loose, so you can't make fine adjustments under tension as with a good ball head.</p>

<p>I find a good ball head (Arca B1) is barely adequate for a 300mm lens. It supports the weight just fine, and balances the load. However it is difficult to point the lens exactly where you need it or move smoothly because of the high magnification. A good gimbal head is invaluable for smooth motion with long lenses, especially for following action.</p>

<p>For general use, even occasional use with a 300mm or longer lens, a good ball head is still the best choice. They move smoothly under partial tension (which is how they are used 85% of the time) and lock up tight when you need to take your hands off the camera. Suitable heads include the Arca-Swiss B1 or Z1, Really Right Stuff BH-55 or BH-40, Kirk, etc. These heads have Arca-type QR systems, which are stiff and secure. Plan on spending at least $300.</p>

[john_cox7]

<p>Jacques</p>

<p>I use a Wimberley Head Version II (gymbals head) - (not the lightweight Sidekick version, but the heavy duty one) on a Manfrotto 338 leveling base on a custom adapter on a heavy duty survey tripod.<br>

The camera/lens used on this set-up is a 300mm f2.8 with either a 1.4x or a 2x teleconverter attached to a FM2N with a MD-12.<br>

It is very easy to use as the whole combination is very well balanced and can be manipulated by fingertip. However, it is heavy.<br>

I do not use it for wild life photography. I think that such a set-up would not be useable in this manner due to its weight and size. I think it would lack the mobility/portability you would require to track and follow an animal or bird.<br>

May be a monopod would be more versatile?</p>

 

[eric merrill]

<p>I had the first version of the Bogen vertical grip head. It couldn't hold my Nikon 80-200/2.8 at an angle without slipping. I sold it and moved on.</p>

<p>The one I had may have been faulty, but I wouldn't trust it to hold much weight.</p>

<p>For larger lenses that you'll use with wildlife, I'd go with some kind of gimbal. I use an Acratech GV-2, and I'm happy with it. Works well with 300/4, 300/2.8, and 500/4. Anything larger than the 500, and I'd spring for a Wimberley.</p>

<p>Eric</p>

[JosvanEekelen]

<p>IMO the grip action head is not as bad as the previous posters say. It's more or less permanently attached to my monopod. Even on a normal tripod it's not that bad, provided you don't use it with heavy lenses. I guess the lensed you mention are too heavy for it. By the way, the torsion is adjustable so it does not need to slip.</p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p>I think even if a grip action head works, it will work very differently from a gimbal, especially when there's a lot of leverage on it. A gimbal's pivot is above the center of gravity, and because of this, it will not flop over even if it swings freely. Any ball head, grip action or not, if loose, will flop when its drag is exceeded. </p>

[jacques c pelletier]

<p>Craig,<br>

Thanks for the reply. I never thought of the vertical pistol grip head. I didn't even know it existed ... worth to take a look maybe?<br>

JP</p>

[jacques c pelletier]

<p>Edward,<br>

I am going to borwse the Net a see first hand what these are. It seems that I would be better off with this type of tripod head, especially when I am considering getting a "heavier" lens later.<br>

Thanks!<br>

JP</p>

[jacques c pelletier]

<p>John,<br>

In that case, if the set up is too heavy for wildlife/bird photography, and you use it with a rather large lens (300mm f2.8), what use do you find it most suitable for?<br>

JP </p>

[jacques c pelletier]

<p>Eric, as I said, this 300mm of mine is rather compact, even with the T.C. attached. However, and I am repeating myself, considering that one day I will lilely buy into a much heavier lens (300mm f2.8 or 400-500 of some sort) I'd rather go with something which will allow for "future considerations". As such, I think this waverly might be the ticket. I'll look into it.<br>

JP</p>

[jacques c pelletier]

<p>Jos, Thanks for the input. Yes indeed, if that is not suitable for heavier lenses, might as well consider the options supplied with a gimbal head.<br>

JP</p>

[jacques c pelletier]

<p>Matthew, so I assume you are also using one of those gimball heads?<br>

JP</p>

[Matthew Currie]

<p><em>Matthew, so I assume you are also using one of those gimball heads? </em> I wish. No. I'm afraid I am using a mid ball head. My largest lens is a 400/5.6, which works all right on this. I am thinking of getting my wife a gimbal at some point for her 500/4, which gets pretty hard to handle.</p>

[john_cox7]

<p>Jacques,</p>

<p>I should have said. I use the above mentioned combination for ground to air photographs of aeroplanes and also at air shows. It has its limitations due to its weight and size, especially if there are static exhibits that you wish to get close to. This is when you need an assistant to mind the thing.</p>

[craig_gillette]

<p>I wouldn't suggest the vertical grip head for use with a larger lens. Unlike some of the posters, I actually have and use one and it's quite functional, very fast in use, and superb for some uses. I use mine with a D200 and 70-300 vr Nikon periodically and find it difficult when making portrait shots. Un-collared lenses can be difficult in portrait and any heavier lens/camera will be pushing the limits when tilted too far off vertical (from over the centerpost). Proper tension adjustment does make the unit easy to use if inside the weight limits but the vertical is rated for less weight than the horizontal unit. The problem with either would be that you have to keep the grip squeezed so "tracking" moving items is going to get very hard on the hand very quickly. But it's hard to realistically expect a $100 head to compete with $400 and higher heads.</p>