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SB600 SC-28 Cord D60 camera settings, metering?


denise_brown

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<p>Hello,<br>

I just bought a Nikon SC-28 cord. I have a Nikon D60 and SB600 speedlight. <strong>I am putting the speedlight on a light stand and using the SC-28 cord to connect it to a hotshoe adaptor on the D60</strong> .<br>

I want to know if there is a way to get more control when using this cord without buying anything else???<br>

So far this is what I have tired. I put the camera in manual flash mode and the speedlight also in manual mode. I put the camera in shutter priority mode on 1/60 sec but it would not let me choose the aperture. I checked the metadata and it used F 2.8 on the test shot.<br>

This little SC28 cord setup is more portable, light weight, and perfect for portraits of my family without having to lug my strobes over to the relatives house. It can be used indoors or outdoors which I like.<br>

1.) I don't know what the options are for the settings in the camera and on the speedlight when using this SC28 cord.</p>

<p>2.) Is manual flash mode the only option? I thought this was supposed to work with TTL but how to set it up?</p>

<p>3.) Can this work with my camera in manual mode (not shutter or aperture priority modes)?</p>

<p>4.) How would you meter using the Sekonic using this set up?</p>

<p>5.) Can you use custom white balance with this setup or do you have to set the camera to "flash" for color temperature?</p>

<p>6.) I don't know how to use my Sekonic meter with the speedlight on the camera either. I usually rely on the meter inside the camera when using the speedlight. I have heard there is a way to meter with the Sekonic when using the speedlight and I would LOVE to find out!<br>

I'm used to using multiple studio slave strobes with the main light hooked up to a hotshoe adaptor on the camera (I don't have pocket wizards), custom white balance and my meter and working in manual mode... so I'm a little baffled trying to figure out how this works!<br>

Thanks so much for everyone's help!!! :)</p>

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  • 1 month later...

<p>Hi, Denise. I was wondering if you got any good ideas.<br>

I'm in the same boat. I have a Nikon D80, SB600, and (brand new) SC-28 synch cord.<br>

The auto settings work great for candid shots. However when I have shot weddings in a church (with film) I am used to shooting at f8 for the depth of field and dragging the shutter down to 1/4 to 1/15 to drag in some background light.<br>

I am just now trying to shoot some weddings with digital and want to know how to shoot the camera on manual and get TTL with the flash, preferable with the flash in auto. I'm so used to shooting 263's and a Q-flash that way. When I set the flash to manual: full power is blown out, I guess you can use trial and error with the manual flash settings, but who has that kind of time when you are shooting a wedding. I shot a reception at a Bar Mitzvah using total auto settings (both camera and flash) and was blown away with the results. As easy as shooting film. Anyway let me know if you had any epiphanies. Shawn</p>

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  • 1 month later...
<p>Hi Shawn,<br />I have done some experimenting outside twice with the SB600 on a light stand and aimed up to the left and at a 45 degree angle, with the stand to the left of my camera, and attached to the SC28 cord to the hotshoe and speedlight. I put the D60 on manual mode and used TTL mode on the speedlight. I used the the Sekonic meter to see what the natual light readings were. I then set the camera to the same shutter and F-stop. White Balance set to flash. I didn't use exposure compensation. It gave me a really nice fill. Both times it was late afternoon. I always shoot in Raw so I can adjust it in photoshop later if needed.<br />I shot a wedding using a Gary Fong diffuser and on camera flash with the SB600. I got there early to test it out. I used the aperture mode with TTL flash, and set the exposure compensation up a couple of stops. The pictures turned out nicely. I also shot a model portfolio outside using on camera flash with a westcott diffuser on the speedlight and it worked great. I think as long as you are diffusing the flash and shooting in raw you can always fix it later in photoshop if you need to. Luckily I didn't have to fix anything on those.</p>
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