I yearn for sharpness

[missy_kay]

<p>Lately, none of my images seem sharp enough. It's starting to REALLY bother me. I shoot with a 5d and try to keep the ISO low to avoid noise. I also shoot with a 50 1.4 that was accidentally dropped by my hubby and I sent it to Canon to get fixed.<br>

I'm just not sure how to fix it. Maybe I should start using a monopod? Or dialing up my ISO so the shutter is faster (but that will create more noise)? Do I get a 50mm 1.2 to replace the 50 1.4? Should I take my time more and focus three times on the point? Should I buy boutwells magic sharp? Thanks for your advice! <3</p>

[marekd]

<p>Missy, could you post an example of the picture that you deem not sharp? Please keep the exif data also. It will be easier to advice if you do that.</p>

[david_schilling___chicago_]

<p>Hard to say without seeing some examples of the specific problems you're having. However, you frequently shoot extra wide apertures which leaves you a razor-thin DOF and would decrease the sharpness. Be sure to sharpen in post capture and optimize anything that is offered for web viewing.</p>

[william-porter]

<p>Missy,</p>

<p>Has there been a change of some sort? That is, were your photos sharp in the past, and now they're not? If so, what's happened? Dropping a lens - obviously - could make a difference to its performance.</p>

<p>What you need to do is make sure that your camera + lens combination is capable of taking a sharp photo under optimal conditions. Put the camera on a tripod, pick a good test subject, shoot in good light, do NOT shoot wide open but instead pick an aperture somewhere in the middle like f/4 or f/5.6, shoot at ISO 100, use a cable release and a timed shutter (or better yet, use mirror-lock up). Take some test shots. If you CANNOT get a tack sharp photo under these circumstances, then it appears something is wrong somewhere. </p>

<p>On the other hand, if you CAN get a tack sharp photo in those circumstances, well, there still could be other things wrong with your hardware. Perhaps auto-focus isn't working well on your images - perhaps you have a back-or-front-focus problem. So after determining that manual focus works great, you'd need to do some tests with auto-focus and see if it's the culprit.</p>

<p>And if you can take a tack-sharp photo using auto-focus - again, working on a tripod and in good light - then you have to start thinking about the possibility that it's something you yourself are doing wrong. How is your handheld shooting technique? Mediocre technique can cause the camera to move ever so slightly when you press the shutter, and this camera movement could affect the sharpness of your photos. If you shoot close to your subjects a lot, using wide-angle lenses and shooting at very wide apertures (for example, f/1.4) AND if you are using focus-and-recompose, well, you might be messing your focus up when you move the camera to compose the shot.</p>

<p><a href="http://visual-vacations.com/Photography/focus-recompose_sucks.htm">http://visual-vacations.com/Photography/focus-recompose_sucks.htm</a></p>

<p>And of course, try these tests with different lenses.</p>

<p>Will</p>

[steve_crist]

<p>Try shooting a few shots from a tripod, then shoot the same shots handheld. Compare the shots. This will prove if either your equipment is at fault or you are moving a bit when you trip the shutter. Good luck.</p>

[fotografz]

<p>There are a number of issues that can lead to "lack of sharpness" or the appearance of unsharp images. Edge sharpness is one thing that affects it, the other is over-all contrast. Obviously camera movement is a primary suspect .... and finally, whether your camera/ lens are properly calibrated.</p>

<p>I had exactly the same issue with my Canon shots including Canon 5D shots using fast aperture lenses like the 50/1.4 and 35/1.4. both of which have good reputations for sharpness (the 35 more so than the 50). Canon uses an aggressive AA (Anti Aliasing) filter over the 5D sensor which requires a bit more sharpening in post. </p>

<p>Also, if you shoot a lot at f/1.4 it should be noted that wide apertures aren't the best f stop for critical sharpness with most commonly used fast aperture lenses from Canon or Nikon. f/4 or f/5.6 is much, much better. What sometimes happens is that you use f/1.4 for low light and that low light also forces a slower shutter speed ... which when combined can lead to unsharp looking results. </p>

<p>To check whether camera is out of calibration, do a controlled "bench" test on a tripod shooting a ruler on a 45 degree angle and see if the camera is focusing correctly. Slight back or front focusing can lead to fuzzy results even when shooting stopped down to f/4.</p>

<p>BTW, I have had to send 2 Canon cameras in for adjustments and one Nikon .... when they returned they were dead on the money.</p>

[david_schilling___chicago_]

<p>There's also one more possibility.........it could be growing pains. As many young shooters gain experience and get better with technique there is often a phase that might be called a "quest for sharpness", where it often feels that nothing ever looks sharp enough.</p>

[john_deerfield]

<p>A lot of good information. Let me ask, are you using a UV filter? If so, shoot a few sessions without it and see what you think. </p>

[wedding-photography-denver]

<p>Just from what you ask, there's no way to tell what you need to do.</p>

<p>I had the 5d's for three years and had to work the shots (take two or three) to get a sharp one. If using wider apertures, it was always hit and miss. I found that f2.8 or smaller aps were preferred. I don't rate the 1.4 lens even when it hits for sharpness. Its not bad, but not great either.</p>

<p>There are a few sharpening methods and one or two plug-ins that work well. I don't know about Boutwells' actions, but there are some that pros use which I would prefer. Here for instance:</p>

<p>http://www.niksoftware.com/sharpenerpro/usa/entry.php</p>

[missy_kay]

<p>These are with sharpening and they still look soft to me. I dont have the EXIF bc I'm at work. Here are some examples-<br /> http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_JyC7pVbPZqE/Sq2wozp_4qI/AAAAAAAAA-0/a7Cv2me6ed4/s800/steve9.jpg<br /> http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_JyC7pVbPZqE/SrAn2hG5hDI/AAAAAAAABAI/vx4VWXgsECQ/s800/sc1.jpg<br /> http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_JyC7pVbPZqE/SrAnpmroEOI/AAAAAAAABAA/Qn9zCYbZoa4/s800/sc4edit.jpg<br /> http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_JyC7pVbPZqE/Sq40F1YpLCI/AAAAAAAAA_E/0knxC9o8P64/s800/steve23.jpg<br /> http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_JyC7pVbPZqE/Sq4rwddKvxI/AAAAAAAAA-8/gTPi7gSATU4/s800/steve22.jpg<br /> http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_JyC7pVbPZqE/SrAoJEFpo4I/AAAAAAAABAQ/o3LIgetq9N4/s800/stevec2-edit.jpg<br /> http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_JyC7pVbPZqE/SqESml-bvpI/AAAAAAAAA8U/jvcCZx8XhAQ/s800/kris15.jpg</p>

<p>Edit: After looking at these again, I'm soo upset! They look like pure garbage omg</p>

<p> </p>

[missy_kay]

<p><em>"quest for sharpness"</em></p>

<p>lol yes!!! this is exactly it</p>

[lovcom_photo]

<p>Missy, what is your camera workflow? For example, you're going to do a headshot of the bride with an 85mm or 50mm lens. What do you do for this type of shot? Rely solely on the center focus point? Recompose after locking focus? Do you shoot such shots with a fast aperture? What I'm getting at is that there might be something about your camera workflow that is causing the not sharp enough shots. Also, what is your workflow for flashing indoors? Camera settings? The answer might be there too.<br>

Mark, as to the AA filter on the 5D, I was under the impression it's AA filter was weak and not very strong...I have found that 5D pictures come straight out of the camera sharpen then those of my 1D Mark II's...and in fact, the 5D is known for moire and banding more then other EOS DSLRs, and again for it's too weak AA filter.</p>

[missy_kay]

<p>I recompose after locking focus. I usually shoot below 2.0. And I have been using new lightroom presets which I'm wondering about now if they're making my images not sharp... I will search for an answer..Go Go Gadget!!!</p>

[john_deerfield]

<p>I personally wouldn't want to shoot a couple at f/2 or below unless I was sure they shared the same focal plane, which would be rare. f/2 and wider is a recipe for "softer" focus. At wider apertures, I wouldn't want to focus and recompose. Recomposing means you have now shifted the plane of focus and when you are at f/2 or wider, bingo- you can be OoF. It's hard to tell anything from your post images as they have all been through quite of bit of post-processing.</p>

[don ross]

<p>"It's hard to tell anything from your post images as they have all been through quite of bit of post-processing." So agree with this statement. Missy do you have a 100% crop to show us.These small jpegs might have been compressed and therefor look soft.Lets see a closeup....</p>

[SCL]

<p>Missy - I can't tell sharpness from your posted photos, but the whites appear on my screen to be totally blown. What size are you viewing the photos at and from what distance?</p>

[chris_autio]

<p>Fuji 690III with Kodak Pro PlusX</p>

[chris_autio]

<p>with detail</p><div></div>

[wedding-photography-denver]

<p>Kay,</p>

<p>100% crops on the area you think you hit focus on. That should help.</p>

[asimrazakhan]

<p>I think what you are also looking for is cleaner texture. I'm sorry, but I'm in agreement with Chris Autio... you need to go medium format. A huge print from a 6x7 negative shot with a Mamiya 7II or a print from a 6x6 Hasselblad will blow your socks off in sharpness and texture. </p>

<p>With wedding photos for example, you'd be able to tell the time on the groom's wristwatch in a group shot of several people... or even read the date on his watch.</p>

[missy_kay]

<p>lol a Hassleblad would be nice but aren't they like $20k?</p>

[thomas_sullivan]

<p>first....turn off any sharpenning in camera. second....sharpenning is ALWAYS the last step. Sharpening is dependent on crop and enlargement.....let me say that again....you can't sharpen until you know what you are going to use it for. And if you sharpen during the process, and then sharpen when you know where it's gonna be used.........the second sharpenning only sharpens the first sharpenning.....and it all kinda cancels out itself and everything turns to mush.</p>

<p>Guy Gowan explains it much better than I do</p>

<p><a href="http://www.professionalphotographer.co.uk/Magazine/Guy-Gowan/Episode-1-Guy-Gowan">http://www.professionalphotographer.co.uk/Magazine/Guy-Gowan/Episode-1-Guy-Gowan</a></p>

<p>it's the last segment of this video, but the rest of it is very worthwhile also.....especially the part about giving the client the RAW file.....not so much because of actually giving it them....but the science and philosophy behind the decision.</p>

<p>Of course.....every body above is correct in many of the areas....camera movement, shallow DOF, camera to lens misalignment, etc. I shoot available light with a 5D and a 50mm f/1.4 myself. So I understand the shallow dof with that set at f/2 or wider....but when done right, and sharpenning only at the final set.....my stuff is dead sharp.</p>

[picturesque]

<p>I would repeat the request for a typical 100 percent crop of a fuzzy area that you think should be sharp. Can't tell anything from your full samples. First thing to look for is to eliminate motion blur/handholding shake. If there is no point of focus in the image at all, you probably have motion blur. If there is a point of focus but it isn't where you wanted it to be, you have focusing error.</p>

<p>When evaluating focus technique, you have to start wide and end up narrow. By that, I mean use a process of elimination to end up with the likely culprit. In these kinds of situations, it could be your technique or it could be the gear. Or both.<br>

On the technique side, I'd first eliminate incorrect usage. If you focus/recompose, be sure you are using One Shot, first. Then be sure you aren't expecting consistent in focus shots using the widest apertures with focus/recompose. Then evaluate how you achieve focus--do you use the * button or AF button to isolate the autofocus process? Do you pick good targets for the focus point to grab on to? Do you confirm focus lock when you have the time? Double check the focus mark on the lens? Be especially careful when using wider focal lengths? Use focus assist correctly in dim light?</p>

<p>If it isn't technique, then check your gear. Do the ruler test with your most offending lens(es).</p>

[dan_south]

<blockquote>

<p>you need to go medium format.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Where does this kind of post come from? Is this some vicarious wish for other people to spend their money unwisely?</p>

<p>Lots of people get sharp pictures from small-format cameras. The 5D is a highly-regarded camera. I have not had a chance to look at the example images, but the problem (if there is one) is probably caused by less than optimal technique (at capture time or during post-processing) not by inferior equipment. If you don't solve the technical issues, a larger camera will produce a larger version of a soft image.</p>

[r_smith2]

<p>Missy<br>

1st: I would not shoot couples below f4 with your 50mm when trying to bring them both into sharp focus. F2 and below is fine for one person when working in close or looking for something soft and artsy. If you want razor sharp images and are unwilling to live with soft images then you will also have to give up a little bokeh.<br>

2nd: Don't be afraid to use ISO400 or even 800 with the 5D if need be. Everyone is so hung up on low ISO's and ruining alot of images in the process. A little noise is easier to deal with in post than camera shake. I am using ISO 3200 with my new 5Dm2 and images look as good or better than my older 5D's at ISO 800. <br>

3rd: Before spending the money on a 50 f1.2 sell your 5D and buy a new 5Dm2. Noise will no longer be an issue!</p>