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Nikon SB-900 overheating


bob_schueler

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<p>Hi guys. I knew that if ANYONE knew, it would be here, on Photo.net.<br>

I've got an SB-900 flash, added to the gear bag earlier this year. The problem is that while it didn't initially appear to do so, I now is starting to overheat quickly. When it "overheats" it shuts down and is useless until it cools down.<br>

My shooting technique: I don't shoot with flash on continuous advance, in fact, I don't shoot flash quickly. Kinda like click - one, one thousand, two, one thousand - click - one, one thousand, two one thousand, etc. I always shoot using this same technique and with my SB-800's, have NO problem whatsoever. Why is the SB-900 overheating? I hear I'm not unique in this problem. I shoot mainly weddings and spending over $500 on a flash that is essentially unreliable during critical times is disheartening. This is a Nikon design flaw in my opinion, but what's to be done about it?<br>

Relevant comments/advice would be appreciated.<br>

Thanks<br>

Bob</p>

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<p>I tried that kind of pace; I can't make the temperature indicator go up even at relatively high flash energy/pop. Still, I have to ask if you're shooting at or near full flash energy (do you hear the flash recharging after each pop)? What kind of batteries are you using? Are the batteries heating? Have you installed the latest firmware? What kind of ambient temperatures are you shooting in? If you increase your ISO and open up your lens you can reduce the flash energy needed and therefore reduce the heating of the flash.</p>
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<blockquote>

<p>SB-800's, have NO problem whatsoever</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Well....an SB-800 doesn't have a heat sensor and will litereally fire until it melts, so don't expect one to "shut off" until its boiling.<br /> <br /> At what power are you using the flash? If shooting as you described on full, 1/2, etc....well then I would expect it to get hot. Try turning up your ISO or opening up your lens a bit and turn the flash down, see if that helps.<br /> <br /> Also...if you are using Alkaline batteries in it....well they are high impedance and tend to get hot fairly quickly. I have burned myself with Alkaline straight out of an SB-800 when firing it during the day for fill and working it pretty hard.</p>

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<p>FLASH - I just read that the thermo can be shut off. Any ideas on how to do that?<br />Guys, I should have mentioned up front that I'm a wedding photog, so small apertures, high ISO, lower shutter speeds are typical - at least during my mostly-indoor ceremonies and receptions. I shoot TTL, so the power levels vary based on the compositional lighting requirements. I also bounce a lot, and in doing so, I add EV to the exposure as well, so that will be a factor against me as well. <br /><br />I use the D300 and don't like the quality of my photos over 800 ISO - they look too grainy.<br /><br />I use PowerEx 2700 batteries by Maha, on the SD-9 battery pack.</p>
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<p><em>I use PowerEx 2700 batteries by Maha, on the SD-9 battery pack.</em></p>

<p>Right; now I see what is the problem. I can't make my SB-900 (over)heat because I just use four alkaline or lithium batteries (recharge times vary from 4 to 4.5 sec at full flash energy). With SD-9 and NiMH batteries, the recharge time is just 1 sec. I think Nikon just intended this to be used for brief sequences, otherwise the flash gets too hot. You can either 1) get studio flash gear that can take your rate of firing and flash energy, or 2) increase the number of (Nikon) flashes firing simultaneously. Or you can just reduce the flash energy and compensate by opening up the aperture (assuming that your ISO is already at limits of the level of quality you consider acceptable).</p>

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<p>The SB-800 is rated for a maximum of 15 full-power flashes in a 10 minute interval. At power levels of 1/4 or lower, that limit is raised to 40. I suspect the SB-900 has a similar rating. Fortunately, most flashes at weddings and events are less than full power. The downside is that's still "one thousand one, one thousand two, ... , one thousand fifteen." You can also take them all at once, if you wait for 10 minutes before proceeding.</p>

<p>You can bend that rule a little, but if you need to shoot faster than that on a long-term basis it makes sense to get a Quantum flash, or better yet, a Norman or Lumedyne. Don't forget to carry a spare flash.</p>

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<p>I routinely run up against the high temp warning, and I am far from shooting long sequences, or any sequences at all. Sometimes the warning comes very quickly when shooting at the beach in high ambient temps and strong sunlight, and I very much suspect it is partially due to the top of the flash being black, seems to make the tube/temp sensor either heat up quickly or think that it is. I am going to try and wrap the head with light colored mylar tape, or maybe use dry ice...</p>
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<p>Thanks, folks! I turned off the temperature sensor, but I'm not worried -- I DON'T shoot long flash sequences and from reading of other's experiences of their 900's "overheating", I suspect we have an oversensitive sensor. I upgraded my firmware and life should be better now!<br>

Thanks!</p>

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