adam_rowe1 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 <p>has anyone tried making negatives (transparency film, glass plate etc...) with liquid light? can it be done? i've tried with barely any success. any tips on exposure times, coating, etc...? thanks<br> adam</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnanian Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 <p>hi adam<br> i have done it ... it is fun ...<br> this is a better explanation than i could ever give !<br> http://www.alternativephotography.com/process_dryplate.html</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cole_paquette Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 <p>Try getting a copy of Wilson's Quarter Century In Photography<br> it can be downloaded free from books.google.com/<br> it covers almost anything you would want to know, and the stuff in there is easily adaptable for what you are doing, which reminds me most of Albumen paper.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinod_r_nair Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 <p>I tried liquid light, coating in a glass plate and used contact printing a negative. But it was totally unsuccesfull. I tried out different exposure methods.<br> I used Kodak dektol developer and fixer and the glass is turning out black when in developer but it never gets transparent when dipping in fixer.<br> Though i can see some images vaguely, but this is not what I expected.<br> Any help please..</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cole_paquette Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 <p>hmmm... to long of an exposure maybe?<br> did you use some undersurface to hold the liquid light on? that's like wetplate, liquid collodion syrup holds the actual silver negative material in place. maybe its a ssimple as you negative is flowing down the glass.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam_rowe1 Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 <p>I am finally having success making glass plates. they are very sloppy, but the images are coming through. after experimenting with different coating processes and exposure times i've made some pretty interesting images. im having no luck with the transparency film, though. right now im trying a triple coat of emulsion, because one doesn't do it. coating the glass plate like you would a wet plate works well, as does using a foam brush. im getting some ag-plus emulsion tommorrow, it's so supposed to be faster, so we'll see. also, make sure you use a gelatin pre-coat or an oil based polyurethane glossy pre-coat. otherwise , your emulsion will slide of the glass when you process it. i'm going to master this if it kills me.<br> you can check out some of my glass plate prints at sparoweimages.blogspot.com </p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gina_ricciardi Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 <p>so....i'm not sure what i did wrong?? i coated a piece of glass first with an oil-based polyurethane and let that dry completely. i then coated the glass with two coats of liquid light, letting it dry between coats. it looked great! even, etc. etc. i contact printed a digital negative and put it in the developer...turned pretty black, obviously overexposed the image under the enlarger, but it was staying on. then i put it under lightly running water to stop and the emulsion began to peel off.</p> <p>could it be because of the running water? i haven't yet tried a control with just a tray of still water. but i'm wondering why i'm seeing so many people around the internet that have had success with the polyurethane and i have not? any suggestions?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gina_ricciardi Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 <p>so....i'm not sure what i did wrong?? i coated a piece of glass first with an oil-based polyurethane and let that dry completely. i then coated the glass with two coats of liquid light, letting it dry between coats. it looked great! even, etc. etc. i contact printed a digital negative and put it in the developer...turned pretty black, obviously overexposed the image under the enlarger, but it was staying on. then i put it under lightly running water to stop and the emulsion began to peel off.</p> <p>could it be because of the running water? i haven't yet tried a control with just a tray of still water. but i'm wondering why i'm seeing so many people around the internet that have had success with the polyurethane and i have not? any suggestions?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enrico__ Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 <p>It could be a number of things Gina (for eg type of varnish etc.. problem is that you don't know what is in them. I was of the impression that anything that had oil in it was not good.<br> Give it another go - sub the glass in albumen (egg white and water), or perhaps gelatin.<br> I coated 5x7 inch plates today with Liquid Light as well as some with Rollei's liquid emulsion.<br> The Rollei product has more consistency. The L/L was a little more difficult to work with. I made a bit of a mess but may main aim was to get the pour right. What a pain! Hoping they are dry by tomorrow afternoon. Looking forward to exposing them by Friday... <br> FYI - I'm making them for use in camera.<br> Hang in there!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen_thorley Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 <p>@<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=514353">enrico ~</a> thats interesting what are the advantages of using albumen over gelatin ?<br> I have made Albumen paper before which was a success. Would I be able to use the same recipe to make dry-plates as Albumen prints ie, Albumen, salt, silver-nitrate, rather than using gelatin and liquid light?</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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