more ideas needed

[mountainanddesertadventure]

<p><a href="/sports-photography-forum/00UNCY">D90 with Zoom-NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G IF-ED</a><br>

I have had excellent response from Matt, Richard and Elliot so here is another group of questions. You all have been of great help. As I said before, I am used to setting up compostion stuff in the mountains and other areas.<br>

Shooting on Shutter priority 1000 to 320 from sunlight to stadium lighting; <br>

use 3D or other ??<br>

center point focus normal or wide?? <br>

focus point wrap around??<br>

AF or AF-C??<br>

EV setting auto or ??<br>

I will be shooting again Monday night from synlight to twilight to stadium lights, should be a learning experience.<br>

Bill</p>

 

[daverhaas]

<p>Bill -</p>

<p>I'd go for the following:</p>

<p>3d focus<br>

Center Point</p>

<p>Focus Point wrap - Off</p>

<p>AF-C</p>

<p>EV setting - auto - shutter preferred. min shutter speed 1/320 ISO 1600.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

 

[mountainanddesertadventure]

<p>Thank you Dave , I will try that. Maybe some help on opening my RAW images in Photoshop Element 5. don't seem to open the RAW (NEC) Nikon??<br>

Bill</p>

[daverhaas]

<p>Bill -</p>

<p>The problem or challenge if you will with all camera makers (Nikon included) is that each new model has different tweaks in the RAW files and requires a new version of Adobe Camera Raw. </p>

<p>I'm not sure that the current version which will support the D90 is supported by Elements 5.0 or not. May be time to upgrade Elements to 7.0</p>

<p>Or another option may be to shoot sports in JPeG. I always shoot sports in JPeg Fine. Never had an issue getting usable shots.<br>

Dave</p>

 

[mountainanddesertadventure]

<p>Thanks Dave<br>

I was only thinking ahead to the winter season when we go to NM. for the season and spend a lot of time in the mountains doing composition and was looking for more to work with. You are correct that the sports photographs do very well in Fine JPEG. I have considered the upgrade, but must wait till a better time. I thought that the Nikon software with camera would do this, but was unable to find anything in it to work.<br>

Bill<br>

PS my web site is; just Google mountainanddesertadventures (all one word)</p>

 

[shoppix]

<p>I also think you need newer version of Elements.<br>

As far as shooting at the games...just get out there and shoot a few and then ask some more questions. always think about how the various setting, in camera, affect the results. There is no hard rule of themb(s) for shooting these sports situations where you need speed and more light!<br>

Steve</p>

 

[mountainanddesertadventure]

<p>Thanks all;<br>

I do need a newer version of Elements, but can't quite do it now. I had very good sucess with the Football game and did find out about the "center point" and Dynamic area. There are times for both depending on what you want from the photograph. It is only a guess what the next play will be as which to use. Learned a LOT!! I used 1/1000 down to 1/500 as the daylight faded. 1/400 was a little slow for some runs. This is a great site. When one switchs from 35MM film to digital it is like starting all over again. I have finally decided to sell ALL my 35MM stuff.<br>

Bill</p>

[richard_reeve3]

<p>I only ever shoot sports photos in jpeg. To shoot them in RAW is simply too much work for me for no real benefit.<br>

I don't use 3D focussing for sports as I have found it gets confused when there are multiple players moving in different directions.<br>

I always use the centre focus position. I generally try to shoot a little wider than I need to so I can crop later on if I have to.<br>

I use AF-C with VR on the lens turned off with auto ISO, min shutter speed 1/800, max aperure 1600 and the camera in Aperture priority mode.<br>

These settings may not work for others but they do for me.</p>

<p> </p>

[mountainanddesertadventure]

<p>Richard, I will try them all next game VR turned OFF ??</p>