How does exposure compensation work on my D300

[stephen_lilley]

<p>I recently upgraded to a D300 from a D200 and thought it would be good time to review my technique. I shoot mainly birds so rarely do I alter my camera settings other than to obtain the correct exposure, ( or when I am tracking BIF). I shoot in manual mode, usually wide open as I am nearly always struggling for enough light here in the UK, ( I have good Nikon glass).To obtain the correct exposure my method has been to set my shutter speed to expose correctly, say the nearby grass illuminated under diffused sunlight, when I then focus on a subject I quickly check the camera meter reading in the camera viewfinder and then turn the rear camera dial to increase or decrease the shutter speed as needed. If my shutter speeds drop too low I increase ISO.<br>

My question , is this the best method to use?<br>

A further question if I may? which of the three factors influencing exposure ( ie. Shutter speed., aperture and ISO ) does the exposure compensation function in Nikon DSLR's affect.</p>

<p>Regards Stephen</p>

[alan_olander1664878205]

<p>To answer your second question, it depends on the exposure mode you're using. In aperture priority, exposure compensation would affect the shutter speed, in shutter priority, the aperture, and in manual mode, it wouldn't affect either except that it will bias the meter. In program mode, either aperture or shutter speed could be influenced depending on the situation.</p>

<p>If you are setting the ISO manually, exposure compensation wouldn't affect that, but with auto ISO, it could do so in any of the modes, including manual.</p>

[pete_harlan1]

<blockquote>

<p>I shoot in manual mode, usually wide open as I am nearly always struggling for enough light here</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Stephen,</p>

<p>You kinda' lost me.<br>

You say you shoot wide open and in manual mode.<br>

Exp comp does nothing in manual mode except bias the meter.</p>

<p>Is it the best method? Maybe and in your scenario I'd say probably.<br>

AUTO ISO might be advantageous in your situation since the D-300 allows you to set a min shutter speed you are willing to accept before the camera raises the ISO.</p>

 

[Wouter Willemse]

<p>Exposure compensation and manual mode are a bit mutually exclusive indeed.<br>

As for metering, the matrix meter is usually quite good in my opinion, and with birds flying, time may not be on your side (to change settings like ISO). So while getting exposure right straight away is certainly the aim, another piece of advice would be: use RAW and gain some latitude in exposure. In the Netherlands, weather is about as bad and light equally missing - RAW saved quite some pictures for me. In these "intermediate low light" conditions, I found that a the amount of light for a camera can easily drop enormously, where the eye is fooled thinking it's "just a bit more dim".<br>

When I think the matrix meter might screw up, I just switch to spot metering, and meter what I think should be exposed properly. Works like a charm and faster to operate - for me. Advantage is that the spot meter on the D300 (and if I recall correctly, on nearly all Nikon DSLRs) is attached to the active focuspoint by default.<br>

But whether that's the best method? I guess not, but it is for me. If your method works for you, than that's your best method. What you do does sound logical, and should render proper results I think.</p>