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How do you shoot the processional?


patty_h.

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<p>Yeah, you are right Nadine, I was confusing camera exposure with focusing mode!!!!!<br>

I am using the Nikon d300 with the 18-200 f3.5-5.6.<br>

I have been using the single-servo AF mode and the Auto-area AF mode.<br>

I appreciate all the advice.</p>

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<p>Nadine one more thing about the servo mode. I have a Canon 40D I could set it to single shot, for the drive mode and servo for the focusing, and lets say average metering for the exposure (not that is is an issue here) this set up would not give any rapid fire therefore the flash would not be trying to play catch up.<br>

With the above mention setings in manual mode would you not think servo would be the logical choice? given a lens that open wide enough F1.8 to F2.8 lets say to registrer more light for the focusing?<br>

Thanks for your valuable feed back<br>

Alex</p>

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<p>Alex--in a nutshell, no--for me. Granted there are different methods of shooting the processional which I'll talk about below, but I usually photograph the processional with safety (the bride and father is an important, must-get image), sharpness and correct exposure in mind.</p>

<p>I have a 40D (alongside my 5D) as well. The 40D is a semi-pro camera, and the low light focusing is not as swift as I would like to feel confident in accurate auto focusing indoors, in dim lighting such as one typically encounters in a church. Particularly using AI Servo, particularly using a wide open aperture, and even if using One Shot and not continuous drive. Actually, the 5D is the same.</p>

<p>When I say the flash won't keep up, I don't mean just because one is using continous drive. As I said above, the idea behind AI Servo (as far as I know) is that the camera follows subject motion. In doing so, it will sometimes be OOF, and then catch up, etc. When I read about AI Servo in manuals and online, it is always recommended that you shoot a series of images, so that one improves one's chances of in-focus images. Most such information sources say that some of the series will be OOF.</p>

<p>Knowing this, it is a given that one needs to shoot more than one image of the subject(s) as she/he approaches. This creates problems with flash usage and with the actual act of photographing the subjects. One does not always have to use flash, but in many instances, one does, because the ambient light is too dim for a comfortable ISO and fast enough shutter speed to stop motion, or, if outside in bright sun, for flash fill. Inside, I am sometimes bouncing the flash (if possible) for softer light quality, or at least diffusing it somewhat, meaning more flash power needed per shot. Outside, even the most powerful shoemount flashes are puny against bright sun. Hence, recycling is a big issue when you are trying to shoot a series of frames of the same subject in a short period of time (not even using continuous drive). Your time may be even shorter if, for instance, the aisle isn't very long or you are restricted to one place along the aisle. If using AI Servo and shooting a series, one 'may' get the perfect shot, but then again, one may not, or the perfect shot happens to be the one that is OOF.</p>

<p>When using One Shot focusing and one of the 'old' methods, one can pretty much guarantee that one good, sharp, correctly exposed image will be gotten. One can even control when that image is taken (say the subject blinks or looks down just as you are about to take the photo), to a degree, even if confined to taking that image in a short range of subject distance, by taking one step backward (to maintain the established subject distance) and taking the shot when the subject looks good again. This is why I prefer to be unencumbered by pews behind me. If I start out in between pews, I prefer to step out into the aisle to take my picture (where I can step backward if necessary) and then step back into the pews.</p>

<p>You also do not get focus assist using AI Servo (with my Canon cameras), which can be important in dim lighting, and while a fast lens does help with auto focusing, it isn't necessary for the working aperture to be wide open for the lens to take advantage of the light. The lens is wide open when the shutter is not engaged (when the exposure and focusing info is taken) and stops down to the actual or working aperture when the shutter is open. Not to mention that f1.8 is very slim DOF to be relying on. If shooting a full length of the subjects at 50mm (non crop) at 10 feet subject distance, your DOF is little more than 1.5 feet total. The subjects can move out of the DOF range easily, in a very short time.</p>

<p>Now, there are times where you might be able to get away with using AI Servo with enough accuracy, such as when there is ample ambient light during the processional--a modern church with floor to ceiling window during the bright daylight hours, for instance. You could use a high ISO without sacrificing quality, a fast enough shutter speed to stop motion, a small enough aperture to have a DOF margin of error, and flash as fill, so used with the flash head direct (since as fill you won't get ugly shadows) and at a low power, no worries about recycling. You can't expect these conditions every time, however. The only thing that isn't remedied is AF accuracy, the possibility of OOF shots and focus/exposure lag.</p>

<p>Some photographers shoot this way even if they are in dim light, upping the ISO and claiming that both noise and possible subject blur are inconsequential to the kind of nice image one gets with ambient light. This is up to you. Having been shooting for a while, I am more of the 'one good shot' kind of photographer. I personally see the processional shots as important (the bride and dad) but not necessarily an opportunity for art. I therefore shoot one or just several, sharp, well exposed images designed to show what is happening. I don't see why one would need, say twelve shots of each person or even the bride and dad, progressing down the aisle, passing and disappearing to the altar. But that's me.</p>

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<p >Patty:</p>

<p > </p>

<p >There is wonderful advice regarding various techniques you might practice so you will have a range of skills to address the Processional.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I too use CANON DSLR, and I believe Nadine's comments regarding the AF MODES of Canon Cameras are generally applicable to other Manufacturer's equipment, such as your Nikon Camera.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >But, for any detailed advice about the nuances of the AF protocols and any temperamentalities of your camera, you would be best to seek advice from those working Professionals who use Nikon Cameras.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I add that it is <strong><em>likely</em></strong> your AF is generally working harder and less efficiently with the lens you are using. (This is an assumption not a statement of fact).</p>

<p > </p>

<p >But, as a statement of fact - Manual Focus will be more difficult with the lens you have, because you are working the viewfinder at F/4.5 to F/5.6 most of the time - and that is substantially darker than using an F/2.8 (zoom) or F/1.4 (Prime).</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Also, you should investigate the use of any “Flash Focus Assist” options your Nikon gear might employ.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >WW </p>

<p > </p>

 

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<p>I shoot with a Nikon. Prior to my current full frame cameras I used a D300.</p>

<p>I position myself dead center as the processionals proceed. Prior to it starting, I do test shots to get the correct exposure at the distance where I want the participants framed. Flash is TTL and may be compensated to the plus side if using a diffuser. I always use at least f/3.5 or smaller (like f/5.6) with a 1/80th shutter ... and set the ISO to accomplish this in any given light. The D300 is fully capable at slightly higher ISOs. </p>

<p>I use single focus. As they come toward me, I lightly tap the shutter button to follow them toward me until they reach the predetermined spot and then shoot with one clean press of the shutter button. Following them toward me assures the shortest focus throw and least delay in AF lock/shoot. This technique eliminated an occasional slight miss-focus as the subject stepped toward me as I shot.</p>

<p>As they approach me I step to the side and get them passing by on a 3/4 angle. </p>

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