550ex aimed 45 degrees vs. off camera with Stroboframe grip

[gene_austin]

From reading the forums I've come to understand that you get softer

lighting by getting the flash above the camera. I have a 550ex with

Stofen OmniBounce and was considering the purchase of a Stroboframe

Quick Flip for this purpose. However, since the OmniBounce dictates

pointing the flash head up 45 degrees I was wondering if its still

necessary to distance the flash from the camera? If so, should one

still point the flash upwards, or shoot straight on? My concern is

avoiding shadows while maintaining adequate distance coverage for

wedding portraiture. My setup consists of an Canon EOS Elan IIe,

550ex and 420ex (with another 420ex on the shopping list)

[bill_goldman]

Stofen recommends tilting the flash to aim the OmniBounce up at approximately 45 degrees. However, it can also be used straight ahead; for instance if you're outdoors or if you're indoors and there is a colored ceiling. The OmniBounce is not a diffuser; it is more of a light spreader. It eliminates shadows quite effectively and the 45 degree angle is the most efficient way to use it. I am quite pleased with the results I have gotten with it.

 

 

Also, when shooting verticals you can tilt it back down and then swivel the flash head up 45 degrees and it works quite well that way.

 

As for the Stroboframe, its purpose is to provide a quick way to position the flash above the lens for verticals. Otherwise vertical shots will result in shadows to the side of the subject whereas horizontal shots will result in the shadows largely behind the subject. In any event the flash should be directly above the lens to eliminate shadows. If the flash is very close to the lens, red eye can result. An accessory flash such as the 550EX sits high enough to pretty much eliminate this. Raising the flash higher is somewhat more effective at pushing the shadows down behind the subject.

 

I don't think you need both the flash bracket and the OmniBounce but if you use the OmniBounce be aware that you will lose some flash power and effective distance.

 

Hope this helps.

[gary_berg]

Actually, I think the most critical thing with the Omnibounce is to get the flash out of its "centered and locked" position. This forces it to test things out better before taking the picture. Now perhaps the E-TTL flashes, which preflash anyway, don't matter about this but I know the A-TTL/TTL flashes behaved differently.

[chuck_dowling]

And don't forget that your 550EX can tilt DOWNWARD at 7 degrees, probably negating the added height of the bracket.

[chuck_dowling]

Disregard my last post here, I meant to post that as a reply to a question in the unarchived forum.

[bill_goldman]

I have some comments I should have added to my response. You need to experiment to see if you can achieve the results you desire. If you want to see the effects you will get with a flash bracket place your camera on a tripod and attach your flash with the Off-Camera Flash Cord 2 and hold it at a position simulating where it would be with a flash bracket. Shoot pictures with and without the OmniBounce and see what works for you. The more shadows you can eliminate, the more natural your pictures will look ("softer"?).

 

You can also determine the effective distance with the OmniBounce. Shoot at the church if possible and take notes so you know which picture used which configuration. Also, if you are going to use a wireless E-TTL setup, you can eliminate shadows and you don't need the OmniBounce or the flash bracket, if you choose. There's nothing that inspires confidence than knowing exactly how your pictures are going to turn out because you've already done it.