metering black subjects

[jeff_hallett]

would like some opinions on how to meter a black animal at close

range using a spotmeter and pickup the fur highlights, yet still

retain the glossy rich black color?

[bobatkins]

I see you asked a very similar question over in the original photo.net

Q&A fourm, with respect to

<a href="http://db.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=0002Vp">photographing black pets</a>.

Those with experience in "black pet" work might want to answer there.

 

<p>

 

Crossposting is one of the worst (or more accurately, one of

the most badly abused) features of Usenet and I wouldn't

want to see it duplicated here on photo.net. This isn't quite

crossposting, but it's sort of close!

 

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In general, to accurately reproduce a dark animal (Bison come

to mind!), you can spot meter on the fur and close down a stop

or so from the reading. In this situation, bracketing may help

a lot! For <em>really</em> black animals, closing down 2 stops might

be needed. Alternatively you could use an incident meter reading

and hope your film has enough latitude to cope. Of course with

<em>wild</em> animals, you won't be doing this at close range!

[dan_smith]

You might be facing one problem with this that you don't realize. What film are you using? A film with very high contrast and/or saturation(Velvia) has trouble rendering the full range you are asking about. Try a film without as much contrast and then meter it as already stated. Run some tests to see which works best for you before trying this or the new films in the field.

[eli_rubinstein]

Photographing BLACK subjecs. Thats exactly where spot meters come in handy (this there "Reason of Existence"). As I mentioned before in another answer Meters are Calibrated To "18 percent GRAY" which means that MORE OFTEN THAN NOT ANY SPOT METERED subject will RENDER "GRAY" on A Black and White Film. But ANY Color Film Is ESSENTIALY a B+W film So your "basic approach" should be accordingly. Back To "18 Percent Gray" This is Termed ZONE V(five) In Ansel Adam's ZONE SYSTEM. Every ZONE represents ONE STOP. NOW One MUST Everytime "THINK POSITIVE" SO The HIGHER the ZONE number (e.g VI VII VIII (IX)) The WHITER The Rendition. and Vise Versa From Zone V DOWN The BLACKER The Rendition (Remember "THINK POSITIVE"). This is the very Reason Why One MUST Adjust The exposure "Over Metering" Depending On The "Place" one wants to "put HIS subject". Therefore on a BLACK Subject the Light Meter's STREIGHT info will be for a GRAY RENDITION in order to get what ONE wants one has to adjust (One STOP per ZONE).In case of a black subject e.g one to two stopes DOWN (e.g Metered f8 at 1/125 adjustment f16 at 1/125 {or, of course, f8 at 1/500 }) Now this is Only A PART OF THE TRUTH (Though an IMPORTEND one) it is also ,as one of the forum member allready mentioned ) A Matter of What Film One Uses e.g VELVIA was mentioned to be a contrasty and saturated film. By the Way VELVIA Is Rated ISO 50. A lot of users Believe exposing it As ISO 40! Renders better Results. Good Luck.

[bahman_farzad]

Your ONLY answer is spotmetering. Use a good camera with a narrow spotmetering angle like Nikon N90 or Nikon N70. Set your exposure mode to manual "M" and find the "normal exposure" of the animal's skin. Since you are looking for a specific look, simply close down by two stops from this exposure and shoot. then take two more shots by opening from this exposure by 1/2 stop. Remember detail and tone go against one another. Sometimes you can not get what you want and have to settle with what is close. Assume that the spotmeter's normal exposure from the sunlit animal is 1/60 @f-8 which is not too impractical. This renders an 18% gray image tone on your Velvia film. Your first exposure would be at 1/60 @ f-16, the second exposure would be at 1/60 @f-13 and the third one will be at 1/60 @ f-11. They all WILL come out. The first one will have a correct tone but no detail. the third one will have a good detail and the one in the middle will have some of each. Then take YOUR PICK! Bahman Farzad