What is minimum 501CM gear needed to be up and running?

[donald_ingram1]

<p>There's nothing wrong with the 80mm lens - if you intended to have only one lens for a while, it's probably the better choice ( slightly wider ).<br>

Stick to CF (or the new C that came with the 501C) and avoid the CB that often came with the 501CM.</p>

<p>Better to pick a newer ~1990 or later A12 ( less chance of light leaks ) than two older ones.</p>

<p>The 501C, 501CM and 503CW all came with Acute Matt screens, WLF and rapid cranks - if they have been split from any of those it's more likely to have had a hard professional working life - similarly unmatched backs.</p>

<p>The 501C will save you some money - the only difference from the 501CM/503CW is the shorter mirror ( i.e same as used on the older 500/503CXi ) which is supposed to cut off a little with lenses above 150mm.</p>

[robert_landrigan]

<p>I agree with the 100 over 80 - the 80 is a fine lens, but the 100 is special. I'll also throw in and suggest the next lens as a 50 - it's a very useful, and fun length for interesting portraits and wider landscape shots.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

<p>I'm sorry, but it's not correct that backs being 'mismatched' will lead to frame spacing problems.<br />Frame spacing issues can have a few causes, the most probable one is that the nylon stop lever (which gets a good pounding in use) is worn and needs to be replaced.<br />But the cause never lies in any interaction between shell and insert</p>

<p>The matching was done to ensure greatest film flatness. There are rollers on the insert and rollers in the shell, and their position relative to each other could matter.<br />'Could', because if it actually does, it is in the realm of micro-tuning. The only ill effect you can expect from mismatched backs is that on resale value. An extra price that is paid for peace of mind.<br />And that is, i think too, worth a bit more.</p>

<p>Apropos replacing: the dark slide slot seal in a back very likely needs replacing in any back you buy used, in older and newer backs alike. <br />And even if it does not straight away, it will in at most a couple of years time.<br />It is easy to replace the seal yourself, and the materials needed (most of the time only the foam pad. The mylar foil only needs to be replaced when it is damaged) are readily available and do not cost much.</p>

<p>I do agree with Donald that there is nothing wrong with the 80 mm. The 100 mm is a specialist lens, that shows superior performance only under certain circumstances (wide open, and at infinity). The 80 mm is easily its equal when stopped down moderately, or/and when used at closer range.<br />The 100 mm's low distortion is a bit harder to beat, but that too lets off, the difference to that of the 80 mm becoming smaller, when the lens is not used at infinity.</p>

<p>So i agree too that the choice between the two should better be made based on angles of view. How useful will either be for the type of photography you engage in?</p>

<p>The EL (...) models take the same lenses, viewfinders and magazines, yes.<br />They are also great. But, of course, a bit heavier.</p>

<p>And they obvioulsy rely on battery power. The older ones (EL, EL/M, 500 ELX) use NiCads of a certain, not very common size, and need a charger. The other, later models take common AA batteries. <br />The NiCads are still available new, and there are also a number of alternative options available: you can buy adapters that take a 9 V block batteries, AA batteries, or Lithium CR (i forgot the number) type batteries. All of these alternatives work. I have chosen the Lithium battery adapter myself. If you search the Web for a bit, you can find instructions telling you how to fabricate such adapters yourself too.<br>

They need batteries, but will expose a huge number of films before they run out. So nothing like DSLRs that need a couple of fresh ones every single day. ;-)</p>

[brucecahn]

<p>Too much talking. It is a great camera and will function fine with what you are getting. Learn to avoid jamming it and you could not have a better 120 camera.</p>

[graham_martin2]

<p>Thanks for the additional vote of confidence Bruce. I ordered the kit from KEH last night and it should arrive here on Wednesday with a bit of luck. Also was able to find a lens hood on eBay from a reputable seller.</p>

[norton_willingham]

<p>KEH is good. Also try nine-volt.com for stuff. I think KEH gets a lot of their inventory from Nine Volt.</p>

[graham_martin2]

<p>Received the 500 c/m today. Very pleased with its comapct size and this will work great for me. The 100mm lens was not so good. I bought a BGN one form KEH and it doesn't mount properly due to the drive shaft slot not lining up with the red dot. I will have to return and get an 80mm in EX condition for the same price.</p>

<p>Is there a back that will "convert" the image to 645?</p>

[norton_willingham]

<p>A16 back will give you 645.<br>

I don't know how much you know about Hasselblad, but when you say the drive shaft not lining up with the red dot, do you mean the line is oriented in the wrong direction? If so, the lens just needs to be cocked.</p>

[graham_martin2]

<p>Thanks Norton</p>

<p>I started a separate thread about the lens mounting problem. I have tried re-cocking the lens (at least I think I did it right), and still no go.</p>