Opening a Zeiss Cocarette for cleaning

[paul_poropat]

<p>Hello All, I am seeking some assistance for a method to open the back "port hole" on my Zeiss cocarette, model 519/2. I think the metal is aluminum, both the camera body and the removable port. I believe the port turns CCW about 1/8th or 1/4 turn. Are there tabs on the port that engage wedged keyways in the body or are the parts threaded? I fear the metal may have oxidized and fused the two parts together. Any ideas out there? Thanks Paul</p>

[ralf_j.]

<p>Paul - I have the Contessa Nettel Cocarette, prior to the merger, which is essentially the same camera. That port hole requires a CCW firm twist, and the 2 metal tabs at the opposite sides of the port hole cover will match up with two empty slots in the body of the camera, and you can pull it out. If you are not sure, you may try to twist and pull until you hit the right spot. Good luck.</p>

[paul_poropat]

<p>Thanks Ralf. Though this Cocarette is in very fine shape, I fear that the two aluminum parts may have even a slight oxidation between the two, that prevents an easy removal of the port. The two small metal bumps intended for this removal are useless as they afford no twisting friction. I tried to twist on the sport finder (rear), It provides much more torque, and still no movement. Is anyone familiar with any lube or solvent agents that might free this mechanism? Thanks</p><div></div>

[peter_naylor1]

<p>Hi, Paul I seemed to recall this question had come up before, so a bit of that Sherlock Holmes stuff came up with this from another Paul, whose camera came from his grandfather and luckily had that essential IB still with it. It confirmed that all that is needed is to give the 'porthole' a counter-clockwise tweak.</p>

<p>Having said that, I have to admit that the porthole on my C-N Cocarette wouldn't come off, either - despite it being really minty-looking externally. I therefore suspect like you, that some oxidation has occurred from Deep Within, probably due to dissimilar metals. I'm a great admirer of the properties of WD40 in this regard, so long as it's kept well away from lenses and shutters. In the case of the Cocarette, they're well clear so squirt away with, er 'Gay Abandon' (in the original sense of that expression, of course). Leaving the old beast somewhere where it can get quite warm wouldn't do any harm either, but that doesn't mean cooking it. Another old trick with stuck metal bits is to leave them right next to your biggest set of loudspeakers, and give them a few decibels of heavy bass to help vibrate the damn thing loose. Maybe the 1812 Overture? Good luck, mate! (Pete In Perth)</p>

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<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2420608">Paul Smith</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"></a>, Mar 22, 2007; 01:46 a.m.</p>

 

<p>Hello Ralf<br>

I ran across your note on the Cocarette. I had to get the flash light out and dig back in the closet to find my Cocarette that my grand father gave me about 40 years ago. It is more like Peter's from his discription. It is still in the original box with the classic Cocarette name on the top. The box also contains the cable release and the original instruction manual. The manual indicates that focusing is done by moving the front standard until the focusing lever locks in the appropriate notch corrisponding to 6' 10' 15' or infinity. The only mention in the manual about the port hole on the back is as follows " The disc provided with our trade-mark in the back-wall of the camera can be removed by turning 1/8 to the left (curved arrow) " I have exposed a few rolls of film albeit a number of years ago, but I do remember the images were sharper than expected. The manual is titled "Directions for using the Cocarette O and II/O for roll films 3,1/4 x 2,1/4 and 4,1/4 x 2,1/2"<br>

Hope this helps<br>

Paul Smith</p>

 

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