Buying a medium format TLR camera.

[a._robert]

<p>Hi Christian, I might be a little late I'm not sure... I've skimmed over the conversation and it seems as though you might want to check out a Yashica D. It's like a Yashica 124 but without all of the extras. It was my first MF/TLR and the image quality is great compared to 35 or in my opinion, even digital. Since then, I've moved on to Mamiyas, Hasselblads, and a Contax, but I still love that camera. I haven't shot it in about a year or so, but I'm holding on to it because it's such a joy. I might lend it to my girlfriend as she has a newfound fascination with MF. I can't remember exactly, but I think that I paid about $65 for it. There is no light meter or parallax compensation etc., but if you've got a handheld meter, I find the stripped camera a nice change. Just you taking the reading, adjust the settings and shoot. Nothing else to worry about. Anyways, those are my 2 cents. Hope it helps.</p>

[irenej_f]

<p>I haven't had the time to read through all of the responses, but I will add my experience: I have a Mamiya C330 TLR camera and it makes really nice pictures, comes with a 80mm 2.8f lens, which is pretty nice + you can interchange lenses which is a big plus if you want to expand on the focal lengths and take medium format seriously without braking the bank. It is larger and heavier than other cameras though.</p>

[shane_beaumont]

<p>Christian, D Purdy is trying to understand why you think you should get a medium format TLR at a lower price then the prices the rest of us paid. I myself am at collage and I saved for months to own my 500cm, but didn't complain about money since I knew it was for good reason. </p>

<p>I don't think D Purdy was Juvenile in anyway to ask if you had enough money. If you do color negative it'll be about 4 dollars a roll, and 5 dollars to develop at a professional lab. If you're particularly photo crazy like myself, you'll be spending a lot on development. Doing B&W is slightly cheaper if you develop yourself, but I'm guessing you'll want larger sizes of paper to take advantage of using a 6x6 camera, which won't be cheap either. I use Kentmere Bromide FB 20x24 and 16x20 sizes which are 58.00 and 41.00 for 10 sheets.<br>

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Currently I'm saving for a Leica M6 and one lens, which will take two more months of saving... should expect people to tell me where I can get a better price then they ever did because I'm in school? I don't think so. They don't think so.<br>

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If you want a low cost TLR, get a used yashica mat 124G, and enjoy MF not for the camera, but because your negatives are larger and print nicely. My friend uses a holga and loves the thing to death, she takes better pictures then I do, and at a small fraction of the cost I paid! :)</p>

<p>I'm not writing to make you upset, I'm writing to let you understand where D Purdy and I are coming from, and what it'll cost when you use the thing.</p>

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[yefei_he1]

<p>Hi, Christian,</p>

<p> Sorry for not promptly replying to your inquiry about the differences between Diacord and Ricohflex. The other friendly folks have since answered that for me. On eBay to get a fully working older camera is a crap shoot. I see that you got a quote of $130 on the repair cost for a Rolleicord. Here's a place that charges far less:</p>

<p>http://www.flutotscamerarepair.com/Services.htm</p>

<p> I have not personally used their service, but I have no reason to believe it is not a decent repair shop. I have used Dean Williams' repair service instead, who charged a similar price for the CLA of a TLR. But Dean is now semi-retired. What I want to say is that the $65 asking price by Flutot is not too out of place to be suspicious.</p>

<p> </p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>I second Adam's recommendation for the Yashica D. While it is true that its lens is only 3 elements, I find it to be quite good stopped down to f8 or more. No lever, but knob to advance and you must cock the shutter separately from the film advance. And of course, no meter, but there is an ISO reminder. With a little looking you should be able to snag a clean, fully functional one for under 100 USD.<br>

Also, if cosmetic appearance is unimportant, you might even find a 124G at a good price if the previous owner engraved initials, SS#, etc. on it as this brings down its value. My Yashica D was cheap because the previous owner engraved an I.D. # on it. Doesn't bother me a bit.<br>

Seriously, good luck in your search and be sure and post some photos when you get your camera.</p>

 

[jack_welsh]

<p>The Yashica D is a good camera. I have found that the knob wind cameras such as the "D", are more dependable than those that have a film crank. Also,if you do decide on a Mamiya. The C220 is lighter than any of the "3" series. (C330,etc)</p>

[christian_muro]

<p>Camera arrives in three to four days!</p>

[christian_muro]

<p>The camera arrived yesterday and is working properly!<br>

<a href="http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt235/ChrisMuroPhotography/Yashica%20Mat%20124G/">http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt235/ChrisMuroPhotography/Yashica%20Mat%20124G/</a></p>