How to take photos with light beam pass though the scene?

[kl122007]

<p>Hi, I hope I did not post in a wrong area,<br /> I found some photos are excellent that the photographer could include the beam of light run down from the top to the ground, without darken background. Like this example found from web,<br>

http://willsononline.com/fall07/BryceAntelope/Beam.jpg<br>

Can you teach me how to do that? I really hope to do this by using my film camera.<br>

Thank you,<br>

Kevin</p>

[jonathonswersey]

<p>Kevin - I won't pretend to be an expert here - but I love an interesting question - please take this as a SWAG (Sophisticated Wild A** Guess). My guess is you need: 1. a concentrated light source - can't achieve htis effect with soft light and 2) some particulate in the air for the light to refract off - same way if you have a laser pointer and want to see the line through the air, you need particulate matter - same reason poluted air can give great sunsets I think. So how do you achieve this? Well a few thoughts - dry ice, a vaporizer/fog machine - some other way of yielding fine particles - dust/dirt could work too I suppose - I think the makers of Rock Band (video game) make a home fog machine http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Rock-Band-Stage-Kit/dp/B001FVH6L4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=videogames&qid=1244392704&sr=8-3 that could do it. Again - nowhere near proficient in this - thought I'd take a semi-educated guess. I'm looking forward to more qualified responses.<br>

J</p>

[paul_kent2]

<p>To see the light beam the light must reflect off something and enter the camera. In the case of the typical Antelope Canyon shot you link to this is achieved courtesy dust/sand that is in the air. If the canyons are dry enough or there is enough wind, the beams are readily visible. The remainder of the time the beams are given a professional help by throwing sand into the air.</p>

[waltflanagan]

<p>As Paul said, the tour guides in Antelope Canyon constantly throw sand into the air. I went on a "photo tour" which was at noon wwhen the sun is overhead. At least in April the sun was only overhead for about 15 minutes. After that no more beams.</p>

[kl122007]

<p>Throw dust/sand into air? But what if I can't throw, like these two:<br>

http://russiantearoom.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/beam-light.jpg<br>

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/206/456250234_7c1f075dfa.jpg<br>

<br /> Or in the forest, like the following?<br>

http://fc00.deviantart.com/fs22/f/2008/020/c/4/Beam_of_light_in_the_forest_by_Werelinx.jpg<br>

http://cache1.asset-cache.net/xc/sb10068500s-001.jpg?v=1&c=NewsMaker&k=2&d=AE7D8592515903D89368728DBA475298D057E63832CDD87B<strong><br /> </strong></p>

[rnt]

<p>At least one of the 'Forest' shots has lens flare creating the 'beams' of light. Some of the others have mist or haze in which the sunlight is creating beams. Smokey interiors- bars or cathedrals- also gives 'good beam'.</p>

[homer_arment1]

<p>In three of the last four (couldn't see the very last one) water vapor in the air serves in place of the dust. You do need some opening that will pass the light in one area while holding it back in others. A hole in the overcast clouds will do the trick or a hole in a leaf canopy will work too. </p>

[david_henderson]

<p>You can't take them unless they are there. Its not something you invent.</p>

<p>The most difficult thing is to avoid overexposing the light beam. The example you provide is poorly exposed IMO. Either bracket widely or , more scientifically, take a spot reading from the beam, compare this to the exposure you plan to use and ensure that its within your available latitude. With slide film that means within 1.5-2 stops of your proposed exposure, with neg film you have a little more room- say three to 3.5 stops If not well you might have to revise your proposed exposure.</p>

<p>After the event you might well be able to make the effect look a little more dramatic by scanning the film and then increasing contrast in your picture.</p>

[dangoldman]

<p>Its not something the photographer created, but captured.</p>

<p>I would set the exposure by bracketing, and taking readings off various points in the scene, point the camera at the wall, the ceiling, and the beam to get an indication for what is going on. For the sea pictures, i'd meter off the dark part of the clouds then the beam; again just to get an idea of what the range is.</p>

[andrew_gale]

<p>The easyest way for to make shots like this is in your own home if you smoke, or in a friend's who does. Cigarette smoke, or even just lighting a piece of paper onfire, waving it around near a small bright window will give you something that reflects light.</p>

<p>You shot of the canyon was no doubt made by the photographer kicking at the ground and waiting a few minutes till most of the dust settled.</p>

[lauren_macintosh]

<p>There are many other times that nature will help you out with rays of light , here is my shot!</p><div></div>

[images_in_light_north_west]

<p>You just have to be there, you may find a filter helps like a CPL see <a href="http://imagesinlightnw.blogspot.com/">this</a> or a ND filter, but really its about being in the right place at thr right time.<br>

Ross</p>

[lauren_macintosh]

<p>Mr. Ross Murphy My Compliments on your work :</p>

[images_in_light_north_west]

<p>Thank you Lauren.<br>

Ross</p>

[SCL]

<p>F8 and be there!</p>

[thourihanphoto]

<p>Light meter the place where the light source is and then a long exposure and I would bracket for different f stops</p><div></div>