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Canon 100-400 IS related?


daniel martins

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<p>Hey all,<br>

I was out shooting a baseball game with a Canon 100-400mm lens. I was using a monopod with IS mode 1 on and got a bunch of shots like the one below. Should I have turned IS off? I know that you ahve to turn it off when using a tripod but was unsure about the monopod</p><div>00TYTj-140757684.jpg.6ccdc2d5616028fb7205d16efeb0d75e.jpg</div>

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<p>Thanks for the article Clayton. I couldn't get shutter speeds that fast due to it being 8:30 to 9:00pm. I did up the ISO on some later shots to 800 but could still only manage about 1/80th of a second. Maybe it was the shutter speed.<br>

Peter, I already know to turn it off when using a tripod. That thread is all about tripod use. I need to know about monopods.</p>

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<p>1) yeah, probably the monopod is stable enough to need to have the older IS turned off, but</p>

<p>2) Your camera (whatever it is) will go higher than ISO 400 - Maybe a little more noise is better than a blur? Maybe you have to bite the bullet and go to 1600 or (gasp!) 3200.</p>

<p>2) maybe your expectations for the speeds you're shooting with so long a lens so late in the day are too high?</p>

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<p>The manual for my 24-105/4 IS and 70-200/2.8 IS both include the sentence, "The stabilizer is equally effective for hand-held photography and photography with a monopod." I don't know if the 100-400 is the same. Do you have the manual? It probably says.</p>

<p>Regarding the sample pictures, it looks to me that the camera moved more than the IS was able to compensate for. IS is useful, but not miraculous; you still have to be as steady as you can.</p>

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<p>this is a case of what is more important to you - noise or sharpness?<br>

most of us will tell you that to get a sharp shot you need to shoot the inverse of the lens...<br>

so 400mm is 1/400th of a second...<br>

this is a rule of thumb for a sharp shot of something that is NOT moving....<br>

Add sports into the fray and you need to get up to 1000th of a second to get sharpness<br>

Bite the bullet and raise the ISO - not sure what camera it is but everything newer than a 40D will be useable at 1600 - more useable than those shots</p>

 

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<p>I shoot a lot at "stupid slow" shutter speeds with my 100-400mm. With shutter speeds and focal-lengths like yours, I'd expect about 5:1 average keeper ratio (i.e. one sharp shot for five frames) hand-held. You would expect a better ratio with a mono-pod, but I certainly wouldn't expect 100% success.</p>

<p>Any idea of the bad:good ratio for that session?</p>

<p>I would certainly bump up the ISO if you need a more keepers.</p>

<p>To answer your question: I'd personally leave the IS on with a mono-pod.</p>

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<p>I don't think it's an IS question, the shutter speeds are just way too low for 400mm. Unless the players were standing still I don't think you'd have much chance of getting a sharp shot that time of day except at 800 or higher ISO.</p>
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<p>The IS (esp. in mode 2) might work a bit differently in portrait orientation so this could be a part of the issue. Do you get similar results whilst shooting in landscape? Also, the technique is important with a monopod, and the keyword is "smooth": try to stop the camera movement before very gently squeezing the shutter release. And of course the shorter shutter speed the better (that's why there are 400/2.8 lenses, not that I'd recommend to you a $7K lens...) but next time try to bump up the ISO speed up to 1000 or so so the hutter speed will be shorter.</p>
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<p>This is not rocket science - your shutter speeds were wayyyy too slow. Yes, you have IS to compensate, but that does not help you with subject motion. At 1/40sec you should not expect to get any sharp images of moving objects - no matter what the lens. IS doesn't help in those situations.</p>
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<p>...I'll buck the trend and say whether to raise the ISO depends on what hit rate you require. Shooting at 1/40 to 1/60 you absolutely *will* get some keepers, maybe not a lot, but some. If you only need some, and you need them noise-free, that may be the way to go.</p>

<p>I shoot live theater with a 5D on a monopod. I shoot at ISO 1250, f/2.8, and get shutter speeds generally from 1/8 to 1/80. I've gotten keepers from dance sequences at the low end of that range - yes there's motion blur, but it can be attractive. I find, for me, 1250 is a good compromise for noise vs. keeper rate. I'll accept some blurry shots in exchange for less noise in the good ones.</p>

<p>Shot from Big River: Huck and Jim drifting down the Mississippi. 1/12 second, ISO 1250, -1 1/3 stop EV compensation on account of the very dark background. Reduced size but otherwise unedited.</p>

<p><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v490/alanpix/IMG_9983MwithEXIF.jpg" alt="" /></p>

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<p>I have the 100-400 as well and know that it can get slow at times.<br /> <br /> The best way that I fount to get some more speed in low light situations is to shoot in RAW, use the highest ISO that you can stand noise wise (usually 640-800 on my 30D) and underexpose by 2 stops. RAW helps you to recover the underexposure later and you gain some additional speed.</p>
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