Any Other Nikonians Shoot In Manual Mode?

[pete_s.]

<p>If matrix metering was perfect (as in "it can read my mind") I'd use program, aperture priority and shutter priority but since it's not I need too fiddle with auto iso settings, minimum shutter speed, metering modes, exposure compensation, flash exposure compensation, ae lock, fv lock etc just to get what I want.</p>

<p>I like to shoot fast and consistent so I just use manual all the time and set the iso, shutter speed and aperture myself and be done with it. Metering is always spot and AF is always AF-C using AF-On. Makes my life easier...but horses for courses.</p>

[indraneel]

<p>Sometimes autofocus, auto metering, auto ISO, shake reduction ... may actually be a life saver, especially if you're hanging on to it by your fingertips..</p><div></div>

[whoz_the_man_huh]

<p>Did you say you lock up your ISO at 400 all the time, Lil?</p>

[Two23]

<p>I only use it when shooting at night, to lock in settings and focus. Otherwise, I find the automation to be one of the best things about modern photography. I generally use A-priority. Why would I buy an expensive camera and not use the technology I paid for? For me, a DSLR is meant to be fast, agile, and require minimal attention from me. If I want to do the opposite, that's what my 4x5 field camera is for.<br>

<br />Kent in SD</p>

[ned1]

<p>I sometimes go full manual when Sunny 16 applies, and very often when doing outdoor fill flash. I get my best fill flash exposures shooting Sunny 16 and shooting the flash by guide number. Just grab the distance off the lens once it's focused and poof! Perfect fill.</p>

[Sanford]

<p>My first serious camera was a Leica IIIF and I shot Kodachrome so yes I learned in manual mode and still use it all the time. What could be easier now when you can see the results of every shot on the little screen. The more sophisticated metering systems get the more they seem to get it wrong, in my opinion. I've read many accounts here of people actually returning cameras because the exposures a little too dark or light. "Sunny 16" still rules!</p>

[User_502260]

<p>I meter a little differently with each camera. With a Canon F-1/FT QL/FTb/FTbN I will try to use the selective area meter on a light gray or light gray equivalent area. I will then recompose, focus and shoot. I will use a similar technique with a mechanical Nikkormat even though I will be using center weighted metering. With a Minolta X-700 I will either tilt the camera up or down to change the exposure setting in Aperture Priority mode, press down the meter lock button with my middle finger and then shoot with my index finger. With an FE or N2020 I will use the exposure compensation dial if my subject is too light or too dark. The Konica FT-1 has an AE Lock position on the shutter button ring so moving the camera toward a lighter or darker area and recomposing works as long as you maintain the right pressure on the shutter button. </p>

[rustys pics]

<p>That's the only mode on my FM2.</p>

[Sanford]

<p>I should add, manual focus is another story. I love AF! Just for the heck of it I went out yesterday with my D300 and MF 28-50 AIS Nikkor - a superior, super sharp lens. After awhile I said to myself, this is stupid, where is my AF 18-200mm zoom?</p>

[wmwhee]

<p>I use aperture priority mode with my d70. With my fm3a I use, about equally, both aperture priority mode and manual mode. With the d70 and the fm3a in aperture priority mode, I occasionally use the exposure compensation feature of these cameras to adjust exposure. I use manual mode, of course, with my fully mechanical cameras. </p>

[whoz_the_man_huh]

<p>Per, is there a reason you choose the rather specific combo of F3.2 and 1 / 320 sec?</p>

[scott_murphy_photography]

<p>Since all I have are Nikon F2's and an Nikkormat FT3, I am kind of stuck with manual not that I mind, I don't. I think in manual and not in automatic. I will upon occasion use the camera's meters in a pinch but use a Minolta Flashmeter V and Pentax 1 degree spot (and use AA's Zone System) well over 90% of the time. I have used the Zone System for so long that it becomes almost automatic with me. I think in zones when I look at a subject.<br>

<br />I have a Nikon Coolpix 5700 but do not use it for serious photography. WIth that one, I usually use Aperture Priority because metering in manual is very inflexible. Call me Old School, I take it as a compliment anyway, but I still believe that film is the only way to go for really serious work, especially when it comes to black and white, which makes up about 66% of eveyrthing I shoot.</p>

[whoz_the_man_huh]

<p>Agreed, Joe.</p>

<p>I never saw much point to the exposure compensation button since tweaking the base controls accomplishes the same purpose.</p>

[don_harper_the_edge]

<p>I use all the modes, primarily AP because I like to control DOF most of the time. but I use all modes including manual.<br>

For example with off camera lighting and studio work I use M mode.<br>

When I want to deal with motion elements I use SP.<br>

I save P mode for grab shots primarily outdoors.<br>

All modes have a purpose for getting the job done. I could go on about other circumstances that will lead me to use the different modes.</p>

[Sanford]

<p>My Canon P&S has only automatic mode but I can preview the exposure. By using a combination of exposure compensation and locking exposure with a half press of the shutter release it does a good job of getting what I want. I think many future SLR cameras will have EVF's that will allow previewing the results in the viewfinder and showing you the effects of changing aperture or shutter speed. Does anyone know if the Panasonic G1 works this way?</p>

[david_klaffenbach]

<p>I slavishly adhere to M and spot metering. Oddly enough, I started that while shooting sports (indoor basketball) as it gives very consistent results and it gradually replaced aperture priority for the rest of my shooting. I probably should use the automatic modes more than I do, but I forget that they are even there. It's just not what I do anymore.</p>

<p>Manual focus, on the other hand, just doesn't seem to work for me on a DSLR, despite years of using a Pentax K1000. I think aging eyes and focus screens lacking split prisms have conspired against me.</p>

<p>In any case, to each his own. If a certain exposure mode makes you more comfortable and able to think about composition and lighting and so forth, than so be it.</p>

[rossb]

<p>I shoot a lot in manual. I have used that system for years and it seems to agree with me. Sometimes aperture priority if I feel the need for it. My D200 has shutter priority but I have never really liked those programs.</p>

[yves_adele_harlow]

<p>I always shoot in Manual. I feel more control with Manual, and I know what i'm going to get when I shoot in this mode. I feel less safe with Automatic, and less artsy :-)</p>

[bmm]

<p>A further thought to my contribution above.</p>

<p>I actually think this is one area in which my recently doing a photo workshop has most contributed. It has made me almost religiously ask myself the question "what is the nature of the light" when I'm about to shoot - and im particular is it constant or is it variable.</p>

<p>If its pretty constant then these days I go manual so that I set a proper exposure, not leaving my meter to do the cfinal hoosing for me, and not allowing it to be thrown by different colours/shades/etc as I take my various images.</p>

<p>If on the other hand its highly variable then (assuming I'm shooting lots in quick succession) I bet the other way, and generally go to A mode so that the meter can adapt to the conditions as they change and as I move around.</p>

[whoz_the_man_huh]

<p>Thanks for clarifying, Georg. I've never used a lens without autofocus.</p>

[shuo_zhao]

<p>I often shoot in M mode with my D40 (it happens less often with the D300) when its metering starts to act up (way off, not just off by a little). The camera's meter tend to overexpose.</p>

[whoz_the_man_huh]

<p>Glad to know we think alike, Pete.</p>

[pcnilssen]

<p>@Dieter: I have photography as a hobby. My other interest off-work is to take care of my family. This means for example holidays and trips together. My family and I are often loking at "old" photos from our holidays together, and we often remind each other: "Do you remember...." And, as eating is a nice thing doing together, we often seek nice restaurants. Therefore, we often ask the waiter to take a shot of us. (And no, with restaurants I do NOT mean McDonalds.)</p>

<p>@Phil: Please do not think I find "P" a "lesser" mode. On the contrary, it is better to get the shot than none at all, and I am sure I have made bad shots just because I hade to fire away, not having time to think too much about alterations of previous settings. However, most of my shots are made in a controlled environment (nature, indoor sports/dance) so I have time to decide on my settings beforehand.</p>

 

[pcnilssen]

<blockquote>

<p>Nikonista. The term is <em><strong>Nikonista</strong> </em>. Canonites and Nikonistas</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Lex, apart from beeing somewhat long, what is wrong with the term "Nikonficionado" ? ;)</p>

[liljuddakalilknyttphotogra]

<p><strong>Calvin</strong> - sorry for not getting back to you - I'm working on pp'ing a lot of photos from our trip & I forgot to check back.....<br>

OK in regards to ISO. OK - I right now have three dslr Nikon cameras, the D70, D300 & D700 - all of them have a base ISO of 200.<br>

Now, the D70 is set on ISO 200 as I shoot IR shots with it. I was told to use ISO 100 - but no such setting on the D70. Therefore I use the rating the D70 is made for - 200. Since it's mostly landscapes that's fine.<br>

The D300 is my wildlife camera these days. That means it's most of the time connected to the Sigma 300-800mm f/5.6 - - with that lens I need shutter speed & I need them fast. Long Lens Technique. Also - birds often move very fast - shutter speed, shutter speed, shutter speed. I find that the shutter speeds I like to work at are easily achieved if I'm at ISO 400 & I can get the f stop I want as well. So I have it set at ISO 400 pretty much most of the time. Now I will raise it a tad if needed & when needed, but if I need to go low light the Sigmonster is transfered onto the D700 as that's it's forte.<br>

However - there are always times when things change. I will, for example, lower the ISO to ISO 200 on the D700 when I use it for landscape photography. Then I shoot wide angles or at least my 24-70mm f/2.8 so my shutter speeds are far more flexible. However - if in a rush & I don't have time for a tripod - then I may just keep it at ISO 400. <br>

Nothing is set in stone. I judge the amount of light I have & what I'm doing - - I adjust accordingly.<br>

Does that make sense?<br>

Lil :-)</p>