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Upper Antelope Canyon at fullmoon


w.a._steiner

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<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I want to ask if anyone made a shooting at the upper or lower antelope canyon at fullmoon already?<br>

I plan to go there in july and want to make a shooting around midnight. Any suggestions?<br>

Thanks and best regards</p>

<p>Wolfgang</p>

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<p>I always thought the beauty of Antelope Canyon came from the shafts of sunlight bouncing off the red, orange and gold sandstone walls. Wouldn't all that be lost if shot by moonlight? Might just as well take the shot during the daytime then desaturate the colors to B&W.</p>
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<blockquote>

<p>I always thought the beauty of Antelope Canyon came from the shafts of sunlight bouncing off the red, orange and gold sandstone walls. Wouldn't all that be lost if shot by moonlight?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Although most people can't see color under moon light, the camera can. I have not heard of anyone taking a picture in the canyon at night but it should be possible and you can get as much color as you would get during the day. At lease that has been my experience with the limited number of moon lit shots I have taken. Exposures would however be longer</p>

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<p>This is a great idea, because at noon Antelope Canyon is packed with tourists and guides throwing sand. It would be deserted at midnight. The lower canyon will be very dark at night, it will be easier to work in the upper canyon. Flash flood danger is much lower at midnight than in the afternoon.</p>

<p>What you need to know is, the full moon is at about the same altitude as the sun 6 months earlier. So the lighting by full moon at midnight in July will be similar to the sunlight at noon in January. Because the canyon is so narrow and deep, I believe the lighting by full moon would be better in winter.</p>

<p>Having said that, I still think you should try it! But try to go the day before to choose your compositions (I think if you pay for admission the day before you won't have to pay again at night, but of course you can expect to pay again for a guide & transport to the upper canyon). When you try something like this you are often disappointed... but occasionally you get the shot of a lifetime. I think it's worth taking a chance.</p>

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<p>Thanks for all your ideas and thoughts. My concept was just to take the opportunity and try to make some natural moonlight shoots into this world famous slot canyon. My nikon d3 should be the best working tool under this low light conditions and the rest is my part ;-)<br>

I was hoping that some guys had the same idea before already and can help me with some useful hints, but it seems that not many people have tested this before.</p>

 

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<p>Like the others, I'm not optimistic about the quality of pictures (in the canyon) you'll achieve in the moonlight. However, you may be able to get some unique shots by lighting up the canyon walls with a flashlight or even a lantern.</p>
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<p>I have become an ardent night photographer and now have some experience. The shot you are thinking of would work. There is tons of light out there with a full moon. I often don't even use a flashlight when I'm out taking my night shots. Most of my shots are taken with a fairly extensive lighting system, but there should be plenty of ambient light to work with. I've been taking photos in national parks such as Yosemite in the past year or two, and there's no reason not to. Even without the moon there can be enough light to photo by. I'd go for it.<br>

Kent in SD</p>

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<p>The full moon provides roughly 7 to 7 1/3 stops LESS light than the sun. </p>

<p>A 1/100 second exposure in full sunlight (f/16 @ ISO100) becomes almost 15 minutes under the full moon, to get the same exposure on the film.That does not include any extra exposure for reciprocity failure.</p>

<p>Considering the narrow window when sunlight makes it into the canyon in daylight -- and the moon will have no more access than that -- I wonder if an all night exposure would be enough?</p>

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<p>Thats true. I will use my Nikon D3, and the best iso setting for a 5min exposure is iso 1600 i found out during my testing in the last days. 3200 and 6400 produces to much noise already and can't be undone, even you use neat-image.</p>
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<p>I don't understand why everyone is so pessimistic. I'd gladly trade longer exposures for a little peace and quiet.<br>

Focusing and previewing DOF may be a pain. I've found that a laser pointer can be often used as a focusing aid in such conditions.<br>

You might bring another body and tripod, allowing you to compose with one camera while the other is accumulating light. Got a film body? It would be fun / interesting to compare chrome to digital output. Long film exposures can accumulate wonderful shadow colors in a way that digital can't quite duplicate.<br>

How did you go about acquiring the midnight access pass?</p>

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