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Macro Lens and Wide angle lens


ltfran51

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<p>You can trigger a big debate on zoom verse prime with this one. Canon's 50 mm macro lens can focus a lot closer then a typical zoom lens say a 17-85 zoom. The 50 compact macro at f2.5 is a bit faster then a zoom lens. In the case comparing to a 17-85, it is about 2 stop faster (in capture moving subject) meaning you can, for example, use a shutter speed of 1/60 sec at f2.8 instead of 1/15 sec on f5.6 with a 17-85 zoom. Canon 50 macro is ultra sharp at both close up and distant. These sharpness are also evenly distributed between the center to the edges and corners, so if you're taking picture where these areas matter, the 50 macro is the one to pick.</p>
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<p> Best? You have two new lenses, now go forth and play, experiment, and expose. They are but tools to actualize your vision.</p>

<p>They're best used frequently.</p>

<p>Learn how they interpret light, volume, space, texture, skin, colors, and more until it becomes second nature. The 28 will turn into a normal 45mm (35mm effective). Conventional thinking dictates that's good for general use. The 50mm turns into a 35mm effective 80mm. Odds are that 50 is at least an f/1.8 (unless it is a macro). Again, the convention is to use it as a short portrait lens. In reality, their use is limited only by your imagination.</p>

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<p >Larry, I assume from the heading of your question the two lenses are:</p>

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<p ><em><strong>. EF28F/1.8 </strong></em></p>

<p ><em><strong>. EF 50F/2.5 Compact Macro</strong></em></p>

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<p >If my assumptions are correct, then the 28mm lens will not act as a wide angle lens on your camera – it act as a “normal” lens. This means it will have a Filed of View which approximates what we see (sharply) with our eyes, when look at a scene.</p>

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<p >So this lens would be a good standard Prime lens for you to use and practice composition framing and what is often referred to as “zooming with your feet”.</p>

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<p >The other point of note about this lens is it is reasonably “fast” i.e. it has a maximum aperture of F1.8, which means it will allow you to keep fast shutter speeds in low light conditions, which is good for shooting low light portraits and or close range indoor sport as two examples.</p>

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<p >A “normal” lens can be used to pull very good Portrait work from Full Length the tight Half shot will a little practice.</p>

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<p >The 50mm lens is often commented as not a “true macro”, as it offers only 1:2 (being x ½ magnification - i.e. not 1:1), but none the less you can get pretty close to items and bugs etc.</p>

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<p >This lens is very sharp, especially after you stop it down to F3.5. It also is very good in regards to Pincushion and Barrel distortion – have practically zero – so it is good for copying items which are flat - like works of art, for example. </p>

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<p >The 50mm can be used as a short telephoto lens on your 30D, so it could be used for nice portraiture, for example, but it would not be that good for action sports, as the AF is a tad slow, and it would not be that great for low light either as the max. aperture is F/2.5.</p>

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<p >The other point of note about both these lenses is they have an EF mount - which means they both throw an image circle to suit a 135 format camera (know often as "Full Frame").</p>

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<p >Also, both lenses will mount on all Canon EOS camears. </p>

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<p >I mention this also because your camera is basically is using the "guts" of the image from these lenses - especially considering the 28mm lens should be quite sharp, even at F/1.8. </p>

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<p >You might please confirm these are the lenses you have.</p>

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<p >WW </p>

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<p>The 50mm is a nice full length portrait lens. The 28mm is good for landscapes and group portraits. The 1.8 would be good for low light situations and if the 50mm is a macro obviously it would work great for macro photography. </p>
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