How clumbersome to adjust exposure on a Leica MP?

[psul_aul]

<p>I like the idea of an N/F80. Very similiar interface as the F6, will mount the same lenses and be tons lighter. You'll have a lot of cash left over.</p>

[davidspady]

<p>You can get an M3 (basically a 50 year old MP) on ebay for $500, then sell it a year later for the same price. Or get a Voigtlander, which will have a better viewfinder than an M3. Either way, an MP is a very expensive thing to buy if you're not sure that you'll like it.</p>

[philip_maus]

<p>I guy once said (I wish I could recall who) in an article that a Leica M is a camera that an experienced photographer steps up to, not a camera that a beginner steps into.</p>

<p>That makes alot of sense to me, even though I understand that the OP probably isn't a beginner. The point is, (IMO) one usually chooses to move into rangefinder cameras in general and Leica M in particular as a means of broadening their horizons beyond the standard SLR/DSLR way of making photographs. To drop $6-8K on an MP and 75 Summicron just because the F6 is a little too cumbersome is kinda like trading your old Ford pickup in for a Porche because it gets better gas mileage. </p>

<p>Good luck with whatever you choose, but I'd go with Bob Smith's suggestion of a Contax T3 or similar if all you want is smaller, lighter and a bunch of auto features.</p>

[davidspady]

<p>I'm not sure why everyone is trying to disuade you from getting a Leica. You obviously want to get one and presumably are willing to take the time to learn how to use it. After all, it's three dials and a button -- not rocket science. You just can't turn your brain off when taking pictures, which is sometimes nice to be able to do. But you seem to understand that. And Leica's hold their value nicely so if you change your mind, it's not the end of the world. </p>

<p> </p>

[alastair_anderson]

<p>David is right. I've switched to a Nikon DSLR only because I can't afford film processing at the moment. I love the ability to change ISO from shot to shot, but nothing beats shooting with a Leica. I'll be reverting to film as soon as I can afford to set up a proper dark room. <br>

And by the way it's really fun to take control of aperture, shutter speeds and focusing. I often use my Nikon D3 like that. I wish it were as quiet as a Leica and that the viewfinder didn't black out at the decisive moment.</p>

[michael_dimarzio]

<p>Take Bills' advice, first reply to your question. It's a leap. If you use a F6 as a point and shoot...</p>

[christoph_hammann]

<p>Nobody has mentioned the role the film and the lens play in speed of operation. I see it like this: if you have a lens built like the pre-asph 35 mm Summicron with very haptic aperture ring and scalloped focussing knob (a more economical variant might be the Voigtländer pancake f/2.5 35 mm lens), you will be able to adjust exposure and focus very fast. Set the shutter speed to what you are confident will give you sharp pictures (we're shooting hand-held here, I assume), focus with middle finger and adjust exposure with index finger and thumb from under the camera.<br>

If you haven't even got time for that, measure in advance, estimate changes of light as they happen and adjust the aperture accordingly and pre-focus. Then it's pull the camera up to your face, frame and shoot. Any inaccuracies in exposure will fall into the latitude of colour negative film, not so with slides and fickle b&w document film developed to half tones that I like to use. There, you'll have to take that split-second longer ...</p>

[joe_martin]

<p>Lawrence,</p>

<p>Before you spend the $$$ on an MP, might I sugest looking at a nice M2 or M3? You can pick up either for about half the price of an MP. Not having a built in meter really isn't as tough as it sounds- you'd be suprised at how well you can judge exposure by eye using BDE/Sunny 16. This way, you can get a feel for wether or not you really want a rangefinder (and specifically, a Leica), you can build up a nice selection of lenses that can later be used if you do decide to get an MP, and you'll have no problem unloading the M3/2 if you decide it isn't for you.</p>

<p>Regards,<br>

Joe Martin</p>

[thomas_hardy1]

<p>Nikon users often complain about Canons having so "few" focus points, and not being able to shoot 10 frames per second, and bracketing five stops per image, and so on. How in the world can you live with such a slow manual camera like a Leica M?</p>

<p>In the eyes of SLR users, an MP does so little for so much coin.</p>

[michael_dimarzio]

<p>I missed 3 great photos today with an MP. Not only is focusing and metering not what you're used to, I missed another due to slow film loading.</p>

<p>So I asked myself why do I use it, and my heart answered.</p>

[thomas_hardy1]

<p>

<blockquote>

<p >I missed 3 great photos today with an MP. Not only is focusing and metering not what you're used to, I missed another due to slow film loading.</p>

<p >So I asked myself why do I use it, and my heart answered.</p>

</blockquote>

</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Yeah, and the leather half-case most of us use does not help (-;</p>

<p >Perhaps Lawrence should go with an Ikon or Bessa. Not quite Nikon like automation but you would get aperture priority up to 1/2000 shutter speed. Having that little bit of automation does help a lot.</p>

 

[michael_dimarzio]

<p>Nah Thomas, no Italian leather on it. I'm turning it into a beater. It's on my neck with a 35 1.45 Lux or a 28 2.85 (I'm slow) as I practice Coneology.</p>

<p>It lives on the floor of my 2500 HD Burb, I bring it inside to feed it.</p>

[rgerraty]

<p>I missed a great photo this week with my first failed film load, doing it strictly according to the M6's instructions: I am back to checking sprocket engagement on both sides of the film like with the M2. Lots of considerations here in this thread. The OP wants to try a Leica. I would discount the difficulties, which are quickly overcome. What sort of vacation? I have just been to New Zealand and on Sunday hiked in the hills above Lyttleton harbour in fierce wind, carrying M2, M6, 25mm Zeiss, 35mm and 50mm Summicrons and a 90mm 2.8. Needed them all and the weight and size never bothered me. This is what makes a Leica a great vacation camera.</p>

[steve_mareno]

<p>I went from Nikon AF cameras to rangefinders too Lawrence, and I really missed the little thumb wheel and AE lock on the Nikons. My experiment w/ a Bessa R3a was a failure as 90% of the time I couldn't see the shutter readouts in the VF due to flare whenever I was outside. Build quality on the Bessas is ok but only that. Not even close to Leica or even Nikon, but it's AE was a real boon to taking photos. I think you should just make the plunge and get an M7. It's a great camera and will have less of a learning curve for you. If you buy it right you'll get your money back if you don't like it. There are other options too. A Contax G1 or G2 make fine travel cameras, as does the Leica CM. But really, wouldn't an M7 w/ a 35 and 75 or 90 lens be at the very top of the list?</p>

[harvey_edelstein1]

<p>I like the FM3a Nikon, its nice and compact, no auto focus but its an all metal camera great MF high 1/250 second X-sync, looks great, and much cheaper than a M anything, I got the 45mm f2.8 pancake lens but Voightlander has a 40mm f2.0 manual lens for Nikon. You could use all your Nikon glass and still get a really simple beautiful camera. Or look for a mint Nikon F3 or F3hp, its much smaller than your F6 but no AF has center weighting meter but slow xsync.<br>

Or you could cut a little size and get like I have an F100 a little smaller and lighter than the F6 and the best bargain of Nikons.<br>

Of course if you want a rangefinder look at the Zeiss ZM Ikon, its got the best rangefinder viewfinder, has regular swing open back. It has the same AE as M7 but 1/125 sec. x-sync, It also saves you enough money you can buy another lens vs. the M-7.</p>

[harvey_edelstein1]

<p>I like the FM3a Nikon, its nice and compact, no auto focus but its an all metal camera great MF high 1/250 second X-sync, looks great, and much cheaper than a M anything, I got the 45mm f2.8 pancake lens but Voightlander has a 40mm f2.0 manual lens for Nikon. You could use all your Nikon glass and still get a really simple beautiful camera. Or look for a mint Nikon F3 or F3hp, its much smaller than your F6 but no AF has center weighting meter but slow xsync.<br>

Or you could cut a little size and get like I have an F100 a little smaller and lighter than the F6 and the best bargain of Nikons.<br>

Of course if you want a rangefinder look at the Zeiss ZM Ikon, its got the best rangefinder viewfinder, has regular swing open back. It has the same AE as M7 but 1/125 sec. x-sync, It also saves you enough money you can buy another lens vs. the M-7.</p>

[swhiser]

<p>David -<br>

We can get used to anything. Your instincts are pretty good; respect them. Your suggestion is the most natural tool there is, once you acclimatize to it. Must train though and you will be able to work further by instinct.<br>

A possible alternative (or addition) to the 75 would be the APO 90 Elmarit. This would be your last camera; it will permit you to concentrate, then, on the more critical aspects of making pictures: where to place your body, ways to play subjects & objects into the frame, etc.</p>