colour correct a portion of an image??

[bryceworld]

<p>Hi all,<br>

I shot this image on a rotating lens camera called a noblex, it operates by having the lens sit in a 'barrel/drum' and swings around the film plane recording the scene through a slit in the casing of the drum > hard to explain without actually seeing one already.<br>

The problem with these cameras, as you will see, is shooting in the sun. Flare + reflections can cause havoc with your ever increa$ing cost of veliva. So with this image, i'm aware of the blownout highlights and sunflare on the left part of the image, my problem is with the reflection causing a weird colour shift on the right, near the dead branches sticking up. Once it's been pointed out (on screen) to normal people they can see it. But in print it's way more so.<br>

Can this be fixed at all? Blending colours seams like a really daunting 'not worth the trouble' task. and since this can be printed up to 50 inch's.. It really needs to be perfect ;)</p>

<p>Thanks for any help you guys can give</p>

<p>Bryce</p>

<p><img src="../photo/9169312" alt="" /></p>

<p> </p><div></div>

[bryceworld]

<p>Sorry Didn't know the image size restrictions..<br>

<img src="../photo/9169391" alt="" /></p>

[User_503771]

<p>I actually don't see the problem. The "warming" effect looks just as strong on the right as on the left, to me.</p>

<p>I think it's more a problem of composition, because the warming effect does not extend into the shadow areas facing the camera, where the sunlight doesn't intrude, as those areas are probably illuminated more by the skylight behind the camera.</p>

<p>Someone better with layers than I could probably chime in here and indicate some sort of layer mask procedure -- I believe there's something about that in a current tutorial posting, which I thnk I saw recently linked on the photo.net home page. Might want to check that out.</p>

<p>However, I would proceed with caution, and be ready to revert the photo to its current state! I say this because I think that if you get into editing this sort of thing, then you'll find it also necessary to edit other parts of the photo, to keep the whole thing looking natural. As it is, it's obvious that there's a flare effect towards the middle, and really, people are accustomed to seeing this. Any color shift across the image is probably not going to be important to people viewing the image; in fact, this flare effect in the middle and the resulting shift might actually be helping the photo overall, so why rock the boat?</p>

<p>And the big shadow area at the lower right helps to balance out the composition. The question I would ask in a situation like this is really, how big can this particular photo be printed before a compositional counterbalance starts to overpower the photo as a whole?</p>

[mattluther]

<p>Everything can be fixed... I suppose you simply want to make the vertical line dividing warm and cool less visible. Try this: Select the part to the left of the line, feather the selection a bit (5-10 px), do New Layer via Copy. Now adjust the color of the new layer to match the part to the right, the dividing line will disappear from sight when you are there. Take the Eraser tool, a big soft brush, opacity set at about 11 per cent, and erase from the new (partial) layer gradually from the left. When you are satisfied, Merge down. <br>

The same procedure works if you want to increase warmth to the right of the line instead. And of course, you always work on a copy, not the original scan.<br>

There's many other possibilities but this is pretty failproof.</p>

 

[tobey_bilek]

<p>I would leave it alone.</p>

<p>But if you want, a gradient can be used to fade a color in. Gradients can be adjuste for rate of change and other things like circular and linear gradients. </p>

<p>I would try to paint in some color to the washed out sun. Use the color picker to sample a shade that is not washed out using a soft edged brush of low opacity a little at a time.</p>

<p>This would have been a perfect HDR image, one exposure like you have and one about 3 stops darker so the sun is not washed out. You can try two scans and make a psuedo HDR. One Scan like you have, one that hopefully holds the sun.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.thelightsrightstudio.com/tutorials-video.htm">http://www.thelightsrightstudio.com/tutorials-video.htm</a> </p>

<p>Look at the one on blended exposure.</p>

<p> </p>

[steve_wagner1]

<p>It's very simple, not at all daunting, and does not involve blending per se, just selective editing.The easiest way to do what you're talking about<br /> <br /> 1. Enter quick mask<br /> 2. Make a gradient across the image (horizontally)<br /> 3. Exit quick mask<br /> 4. Photo filter>warm<br /> <br /> Use of quick mask in conjunction with the brush, eraser, and gradient tool is fundamental to making complex feathered selections for the purpose of selectively editing tones and colors.<br>

<br /> In any case, the whole right third of the photo was never matched before you flattened it. You can see a straight line in the water were the blue color changes. You need to do a hard-edged edit of this portion of the image before you do any gradual change in warmth across the entire image.</p>

[steve_wagner1]

<p>"the whole right third of the photo was never matched before you flattened it"<br /> That was said as if it was stitched, which I guess it wasn't. Regardless of how it got that way, the right third has to be corrected first before you do a global change.</p>

[steve_wagner1]

<p>pic</p><div></div>

[peter_mounier]

<p>I selected the offensive color with "Select Color Range" tool to select the blue color that doesn't match the warmer blue. Then I did a curve adjustment to fix the inconsistent color. You can also use the levels, color balance, or other color correction tools on the selected area.</p>

<p>Peter</p>

[peter_mounier]

<p>I selected the offensive color with "Select Color Range" tool to select the blue color that doesn't match the warmer blue. Then I did a curve adjustment to fix the inconsistent color. You can also use the levels, color balance, or other color correction tools on the selected area.</p>

<p>Peter</p>

[peter_mounier]

<p>Here's the result of my correction.</p>

<p>Peter</p><div></div>

[jo_irps]

<p>To get the right exposure on panorama cameras is a big problem. It is even more difficult for wider framed Noblex vs Xpan or 6x17. In your case I would recommend the PANOLUX 135 or 150 (depending if you have the 135 or 150 model) leight measuring module which controlles the speed of the lens unit, thus avoiding overblown highlights as in your composition sample. I have done this manny times to great satisfaction, and it reduces a lot of pp hassels as described above.</p>

[peter]

<p>I would use Mathias' technique except I think I would start by trying a larger "feather" setting. Alternatively make a color adjustment layer, make the adjustment to the entire top layer (pushing it to a more blue color) then using a large very soft brush erase part of the image to allow the bottom image to show thru in the areas where you want this. This seems to me to be the quickest easiest and about the most effective option. You could try a trial version of Nik software - color effex pro which from memory when I tried it will allow you to adjust color in this manner. The beauty of Nik is in their smart selection tool that allows you to click on a point located over the bit you want to adjust, and create an appropriately sized circle around it. The software does the rest- Where you placed the first dot, in effect automatically creates a mask around similarly colored / toned and textured parts of the picture within the circle and ignores the rest. Very simple.</p>

[steve_wagner1]

<p>The problem with this image is that the entire right one third is different than the rest, clearly deliniated with a straight line. The whole section has to be fixed first before you do anything with a feathered selection. It should be selected with the rectangular marquee with no feather at all, or a few pixels at the most, depending on how sharp the transition actually is at 1:1 magnification. Once this entire block is brought in line with the rest of the image you could consider some sort of graduated change on the whole image, but not before.</p>

[patricklavoie]

<p>simply use a color balance adjustment layer to add the color you want all over, then mask it and use the gradient to apply it where you want..10sec it will be done....30sec if you are really slow..5min if you dont know what the f*** im talking about and need to googl; photoshop + mask : )</p>

<p>no need to use selective color, selection, feathering etc... a simple mask.</p>

[bryceworld]

<p>wow! great response, many things to try, will update when i've finished and hopefully mastered!</p>

<p>Thanks<br>

Bryce</p>