peter_mounier

<p>On a mac you can turn the snap on and off under the "View" menu.</p> <p>If it's on, the guide snaps to edges of selections and layers. If you want it to snap to the center of something where there is nothing to snap to, create an empty layer with the selection tool, and position the edge of that layer where you want the quide to snap to.<br /> Then when you want to position the guide, make sure you have selected the empty layer, then drag the guide toward that invisible edge and the guide should snap to it. Don't forget to delete the empty layer when you're finished editing.</p>

<p>Recently the NY Public Library uploaded a $#!+load of public domain images and files to their online library. Check it out ...</p> <p>http://browse.nypl.org/iii/encore/search/C__Serie%20canal__Orightresult__U?lang=eng&suite=def</p> <p>And don't forget to search Shorpy.</p> <p>http://www.shorpy.com/search/node/erie+canal</p>

<p>I just came across the same thing on one of my images. It was also flattened, but it was a .psd file. I have PS CS5. I changed it to tiff and it looks normal now. I assume that if you open the file it looks normal. Have you tried opening it and "save as" something else, or just resaving it? I doubt it's anything you did wrong. I think it's just a glitch.</p>

<p>No indication from your reply that you checked both, but there are two Library folders, one in the User folder, and one in the HD folder. Both contain ColorSync folders that contain profiles. Did you check both locations? My printer profiles are in the HD > Library > ColorSync > Profiles. Another thing I've had to do is to restart my computer after installing a profile so it will show up in the proper folders after installation.</p>

<p>The outer edge of the photo, which you say is blue, is a perfect mid tone gray on my monitor as measured by my iMac's DigitalColor meter. 228 228 228. Is your monitor calibrated?</p>

<p>You shouldn't need any additional software to use an external hard drive with your iMac. Just use Disk Utility to format the drive to Mac OS Extended (Journaled). Regarding iCloud, once you have your full size original photos in iPhoto, Photos, or Aperture you can upload them to iCloud as a "Photo Stream". Photo Streams are reduced size jpegs uploaded to the internet so they can viewed by anyone on any devise. Photo Streams do not count against your free 5gb.</p>

<p>Just for clarification, I am slightly confused about something you wrote ...</p> <p>"I profiled my monitor using colormunki display, I selected PINN_MATTE230_SC_600"...<br /> <br /> Should be written as two sentences unless you chose 'PINN_MATTE230_SC_600 as your monitor profile. You should not use your paper profile as a monitor profile.<br /> <br /> Also, in LR you use Perceptual as your rendering intent, but use Relative when you print through PS. I don't think that's the problem, but since it's an inconsistency you might change that just to see what happens. Use Relative for both.</p>

<p>If you're working on the background layer first turn it into a layer by going to Layer>New>Layer From Background. After that use the magic wand tool to select the transparent pixels. When all of the transparent pixels are selected, invert the selection by going to Select>Inverse. Cut the inverted selection (Edit>Cut) then paste the selected part back into the image (Edit>Paste). The Pasted part should land right in the center of the image as a new layer. You can then click on the background layer and turn it back into the "background" by going to Layer>New>Background From Layer. Or delete the old background layer and turn the copy/pasted layer into a new background.</p>

<blockquote> <p>Adding layers inflates the file</p> </blockquote> <p> </p> <blockquote> <p>This isn't true for adjustment layers, which is what people are recommending.</p> </blockquote> <p> <br> Adding layers does indeed inflate the file. I just tested that and the file doubled in size when I added adjustment layers. No masks, just a Curve layer and a Hue/Saturation layer without adjustments. I started with an unlayered tiff file and added the adjustment layers, then saved the layered file as a tiff. I also saved it as a psd file and they are both twice the size of the unaltered tiff.<br> I'm still using CS5, but if that has changed in later versions it would be news to me.</p>

<p>I'm cursing Apple for dropping Aperture too. I may have a solution that will keep Aperture working even after I upgrade to the latest OS. It was suggested that I get VMware software that runs a "virtual machine" with OS 10.8 Mountain Lion, which I think was the last version to have the advanced highlights and shadows adjustment sliders. <br> I'm just looking into it now, so I don't have much info, or know whether it will work for sure or not. A friend told me that Yosemite will run a VM with Mountain Lion so I think it'll work. </p>

<p>Regardless, a gps needs to "see" the satellites in order to return information to you. If you put it in a case it won't work. It won't work in a building either, unless there's a line of sight to the satellites. So if its in a case a gps it doesn't have any chance of working to locate your case.<br> There are RFID (radio frequency identification) chips that might work given the right circumstances. Maybe that's what you're asking about.</p>

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<p>People generally don't like to see newspaper photos manipulated, and newspapers cringe at the idea. Just leave it as it is, it's honest and no one will accuse you of nefarious editing. It's bad for newspapers' credibility to print photoshopped photos.</p>

<p>No pictures attached, but don't forget, you're not allowed to post photos unless they're your own.<br> Post links to the photos instead.</p>

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<p>I found this interesting price calculator on the net. Haven't used it myself, and don't know how relevant it is.<br> http://photographersindex.com/stockprice.htm</p>

<p>To begin with, your image is 8x10. If you increase the canvas size to 8.5x11 you're adding pixels and the image size changes in terms of pixels and dimensions. If you then take that enlarged image and reduce its size back to 8x10, the image size (both pixels and dimensions) will change only if you have "resample image" checked in the image size dialog. If you don't have "resample image" checked the document size will remain the same but the image dimensions will change. </p>

<p>As far as image editors are concerned, the entire field is the canvas and the image, but you can edit the image to have a larger canvas size without affecting the dimensions of the picture it surrounds. When you increase the canvas size but leave the picture unchanged, the canvas/image size changes. "Image" in this case has two meanings.</p>

<p>The canvas size is the size of the whole enchilada including the borders. If you wanted a postage stamp size image on a 16"x20" field, the stamp would be the image size and the very large border would be the canvas size. </p>

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<p>Looks like a light leak. You can see where the light came through the sprocket holes and spread out over the frame.</p>

<blockquote> <p>... and I would like to try and eliminate my process of development as a cause for a mis-development.</p> </blockquote> <p>What sort of problem did you have with development? What do the negs look like?</p>

<p>Zoomify.com if you can actually access your server to upload a few lines of code. They give you the code to copy and paste, and tell you where to insert it, but access to the server and not just an "upload photos" feature is necessary.</p>

<p>Is it the diagonal lines of the cables that are bothering you? I think it can be compared to looking at a pyramid from a distance; the sides look smooth. But when you get up close you'll see the individual building blocks. The blocks in the pyramid are like pixels in your image. As the cable's lines cross the image in a diagonal you are seeing the corners of the square pixels or (not seeing) the missing pixels. When saving as jpeg, some of the info that might get discarded are likely to be the pixels that make up parts of the cable. So if you discard pixels that ensure the continuity of the cables, you will be connecting pixels that don't line up properly. If you're using Photoshop, there are different algorithms available to use in the "save" dialog. You might try saving low res jpegs with a different "save" or "save as" algorithm.</p>