Taking Night Shots

[christopher_murphy5]

<p>I've been reading a little, and it seems as if point and shoots are better for night photography. I don't want a point and shoot, I want to accomplish nice night shots with my EOS Rebel. Does anyone have any suggestions? I know that the UV protector presents a small issue with taking night shots, and honestly, I don't want to just take a tri-pod everywhere with me, since the camera has to be a slow shutter speed to take in all the light. Is there a lens out there I can purchase that will solve my problem?</p>

[zml]

<p>What do you wish to photograph at night? The subject choice will largely determine the equipment you need and the shooting technique/techniques.</p>

[bueh]

<blockquote>

<p>it seems as if point and shoots are better for night photography.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>No way. High-ISO noise is a serious issue on small digicams.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Is there a lens out there I can purchase that will solve my problem?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>No. For night photography with really slow shutter speeds you need a tripod or a place were you can put the camera. Then you can even shoot ISO 100 with MLU and small apertures.</p>

[thomasmckown]

<p>Choose a lens with a wide aperture. I like to use my Sigma 20mm f1.8 for taking star pictures, or my 50mm f1.8 for things that dont require a wide angle lens. You also need to shoot with your ISO all the way up as well. Honestly, I still prefer to use a tripod even with a fast lens and my ISO up.<br>

I would like to know what point and shoots you are referring to, because I have yet to see one perform half as well as a good SLR at night time.</p>

[steven_f1]

<blockquote>

<p>I don't want to just take a tri-pod everywhere with me, since the camera has to be a slow shutter speed to take in all the light. Is there a lens out there I can purchase that will solve my problem?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>No, you will need a tripod. A night there is simply not enough light for a fast shutter speed. The only alternative is to set the lens on the ground or something solid so that the camera won't move during the exposure.</p>

<p>Point and shoots often do have "night modes" but they arn't necessarily the best choice. Most night shots you will see on this site are often done with SLRs. SLR often have all of the features point and shot cameras have but the SLRs also has better image quality and flexibility that most point and shots don't have.</p>

[mirek_elsner1]

<p>How do you define night photography? Architectural and landscape? Or people in very dim environment?</p>

<p>Unless you want to create some special artistic expression based on blur and grain, you probably want tripod for night landscape and architecture. However, if you want to shoot night street photography, bars etc. then a fast lens might be an answer. Wide angle lenses are easier to use, because they are not prone to camea shake related blur as much as longer lenses. Canon makes 35/1.4, 28/1.8, 24/1.4 that can be used with exposures around 1/30s, which combined with f/1.4 may suffice for what you need.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>Tripod is best, but you can use the top ISO on your camera and still get decent result if you brace the camera when you shoot.<br>

Of course an image stabilized lens doesn't hurt.</p>

<p>This is from my hotel room the other night in Atlanta.</p><div></div>

[marknagel]

<p>Don't take this wrong, but it seems like you may need to learn how to use your camera better. P&S typically have faster lenses (with many many draw backs, including terribly noisy shots), but you can compensate with a higher ISO on your rebel and/or buy a faster lens. I've compared many P&S including the Casio, Canons, Samsungs and the Canon G10 to DSLRs and there is no comparison.</p>

<p>Apples to apples, P&S cameras typically fire a flash at night unless you turn it off and you may be trying not to on your DSLR. Then 23 out of 25 are worthless. If you don't want to use a tripod, open your apreture all the way, set your max ISO and see how it works, or buy a flash.</p>

<p>Is there a lens? Yes, a fast lens will help f/1.8 or faster. For $80 try the Canon 50mm f/1.8. Set it to f/1.8 and you ISO to max, then drop your ISO as needed to clean up your shots.</p>

<p>Mark</p>

[chrisjb]

<p>If you don`t want to carry a tripod everywhere, look at the <em><strong>`Manfrotto Superclamp`</strong> </em> these can be placed on park benches, fences, car doors, window frames , street signs etc. lightweight and can be left clamped under the car seat so always have one, I`ve had 2 for years, quite handy. that and 50 1.8, can`t go wrong ? :)</p>

[matthijs]

<blockquote>

<p><em><strong>Manfrotto Superclamp</strong> </em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Now you've got me interested!<br>

What would be the minimal setup with this?<br>

What pieces of equipment would I need to use a superclamp as a platform if I do not have any other tripod or monopod and want to mount a Digital Rebel with a small lens (50/1.8)?<br>

Is it usable with a bigger lens like a 70-200/F4?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance, Matthijs.<br>

<em><strong><br /> </strong> </em></p>

[johnlakkas]

<p>I haven't tried it myself nor I know how serious solution this can be but nevertheless it is a good idea, check this out:</p>

<p>http://www.instructables.com/id/1-Camera-Image-Stabilizer/</p>

<p>It's cheap as well...<br>

But you would probably need a stabilized lens for best results.</p>

[chrisjb]

<p>G`day, hopefully enough here for some ideas<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/shop/408/Clamps_Bogen_Manfrotto_Super_Clamp_System.html</p>

<p>cheers</p>

 

[keith reeder]

<p>Until we know that the OP means by "night photography" (night cityscapes? Low light/high ISO gig/event photography? <em>Nocturnal wildlife?</em> ) it strikes me that much of the gear advice above is pretty speculative and possibly redundant...</p>

[zml]

<blockquote>

<p>Superclamp</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Superclamp is great to attach and secure the camera when you can do some advance planning (say, a fixed remote controled camera at a ballgame, wedding, etc.) but in many instances you'll be hard pressed to quickly find a suitable point of attachment "in the wild", say, for nigh city scapes. And even if you do, then Superclamp may be an overkill and a cheap tabletop tripod with a small ballhead can be used instead fastened to railing, etc. using gaffer tape or/and velcro fasteners. Some people even use a tripod's center column alone (sans legs) with lots of gaffer or duct tape and velcro for that purpose. Then again, you can just carry a small CF tripod...</p>

[everheul]

<p>Here are a few hand held night shots from last weekend. ALL are with the 24mm f2.8...not a real fast lens, and probably my least sharp but it whoopes a$$ over my wife's point/shoot.<br /> <img src="http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs033.snc1/3236_1050391140502_1247430510_30110037_7065267_n.jpg" alt="" /> <br /> <img src="http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs033.snc1/3236_1050396740642_1247430510_30110051_3577110_n.jpg" alt="" /> <br /> <img src="http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs033.snc1/3236_1050396660640_1247430510_30110049_5011159_n.jpg" alt="" /> <br /> <img src="http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs033.snc1/3236_1050393020549_1247430510_30110046_8130651_n.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>I'll take a dslr over a p/s for low light any day, even with my worst lens. Which is what I used for all of these shots in one night. Bring an extra battery because you will burn through them quickly.</p>

[paul_aylett1]

<p>I have a superclamp, it's good but it won't make a sturdy tripod redundant - especially if you're using a heavy camera. Used with a timer you can get fairly shake free image but it can be a bit fiddly to set up right. Bottom line, nothing beats a solid tripod - nothing!</p>

[everheul]

<p>Though nothing beats a tripod, the tripod gets cumbersome on some of the rides like space mountain. :)</p>

[matthijs]

<p>I know nothing beats a tripod but me and my camera are rebels.</p>

<p>Thanks John for the string monopod. I knew about that one but must confess I'm looking for something a tad more sturdy.</p>

<p>Chris: that's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!</p>

<p>By the way, the <a href="../photo/7805613">50/1.8 is also nice at night</a> and really whips any P&S.</p>

[www.philwinterphotography.]

<p>What kind of night photography? Along the Vegas strip, for example, you can hand hold your camera at ISO 400 to 800 with an f2.8 lens. If you're after skylines, then you will need a tripod or some kind of support. A P&S CAN be used for night photography, but the DSLR is much better. Using a tripod, DO NOT max out the ISO - use ISO 100 and a remote release in the Bulb setting. </p>

<p>However, you can use your max ISO to determine a starting exposure. A 10 second exposure at ISO 1600 is the equivalent of a 160 second exposure at 100 ISO. It saves time until you get the exposure dialed in. </p>

<p>This image was shot at 15 seconds, f9.5 and 100 ISO in Oakland cemetery, Atlanta.</p><div></div>

[lesterphoto]

<p>Here's another low light sample. Nikon D300 @ ISO 1600. 1/4 sec @ f4. sb800 flash with Gary Fong diffuser. A steady is required! Slow shutter speed is required to pick up ambient light in club.</p><div></div>

[kris-bochenek]

<p>Hi,<br>

I will have to agree with majority of people here, you will need a tripod to get best results<br>

the lowest ISO will help with noise and fast lenses will help as well. If you are photographing night scenes not including people you will not have to worry about shutter speed that much with people however since one cannot stand still for 10s or so you will need fast lens like f/1.8 or 2.8 and high ISO.<br>

I do not agree with your statement that PS are better then DSLR just because small compact cameras have much smaller sensors then DSLRs therefore produce more noise.</p>

<p>regards</p>

[BelaMolnar]

<p><br /></p>

<p>A Rodenstock TV-Heligon 50 mm f/0.75 lens will solve your problem. Then, you don't need a tripod. Or! A Canon 50 mm f/0.95</p>

[BelaMolnar]

<p><br /></p>

<p>A Rodenstock TV-Heligon 50 mm f/0.75 lens will solve your problem. Then, you don't need a tripod. Or! A Canon 50 mm f/0.95</p>

[bsd230]

<p>Your best bet would be to find a nice 1.4 or something of that nature, even then you'll probably have to bump up your ISO to shoot without a tripod depending on the light.</p>

[rgerraty]

<p>Point and shoots don't cost too much and you can take a bit of a risk with them. You need to read and re-read the manual to know how to exploit the camera's capabilities. Using a starry sky or night landscape or fireworks setting will do for static scenes. I didn't have with me my tiny P&S tripod that would fit in a jeans pocket so the following was taken with the camera just resting on the dock. Use the 2sec self-timer to reduce vibration of pressing the shutter.</p><div></div>