Help a newbeeie to buy a Lubitel and Holga! PLZ

[louis_c]

<p>I'm planning to buy Holga(s) and 2 Lubitels (probabply). One of the Lubitel going to be my best friend's birthday present. It would be my friend and I ever own a TLR/Medium format for 1st time.<br>

Here are my questions. I hope I made it easy for you folk to help.</p>

<ol>

<li>I notice there many models of Lubitel. Which model is the best? I check many site it just said "It is a upgrade from a older model". I probably forget the Lomography's Lubitel 166+, It way too expansive for me. I'm planning to get a Lubitel 166 Universal. It the newest model, so I assume it the best among all of them. Are there any necessary accessories it should come along ...like insert...mask? </li>

<li>I saw many descriptions about Holga on eBay. "6x6 and 4x6 adapter" and " w/ 6x6 Mask" and "take 6x6 and 4x6" . What that suppose to mean? Are they they same thing? Are "able to take 6x6 and 4x6" different from "6x6 mask"? What featured do I need to take classic Holga style such as vignetting ?<br /> </li>

<li>Some e Bayer emphasizing "Built in lens" and "uncoupled advance". Are all Holgas suppose to have this two features? </li>

<li>Is 120N good for me. I have a hot shoe flash at home. Is it going to work for me? I want assume the classic Holga style r from the plastic lens not glass and with BULB would be cool. </li>

</ol>

<p>Thank you for reading this post</p>

[mark_hahn]

<p>I think the older Lubitels are much nicer IMO. I just found a mint Lubitel-2 for $20 at a local camera store. Wonderful camera. My 166 had problems.</p>

<p>I would only get a classic Holga as you say, but I like the look of the glass lens better than the plastic one (the glass one is sharper in the center, but more blurry around the edges, it also has much nicer tonality which I think adds up to a more pleasing look).</p>

<p>I would never buy a Holga with builtin flash, but I did get the little Holga 120 flash for $13... nice for when you one to use on (it's really just a rebadged Starblitz).</p>

<p>Fun cameras!!! Have fun when you get yours!!!!</p>

<p>:)</p>

[jean_moxhet]

<p>Here is a short story of the Lubitel family:<br>

Bakelite body (with door for storage of 2 filters on the left side):<br />Komsomol(ets) from 1946-1950, 25.000 made. Lens T-21 (or22) triplet F4.5 shutter ZT max speed 1/100, pseudo TLR (no focusing in viewfinder).<br />Lubitel TLR:1950 (49 ?)-1956, 1.334.600 made. Lens T-22 triplet F4.5 shutter ZT5 max speed 1/250<br />Lubitel-2 'aka Kalimar 100): 1955-1977, 2.158.500 made. Lens T-22 triplet F4.5 shutter ZT5 (ZT6 after 1959) max speed 1/250 + selftimer<br>

Sputnik (1955-1973), stereo version what is a 3 lenses camera, 1 as viewfinder and 2 for both synchronized camera.<br>

Thermoplastic body (no more filter storage but lens can be fitted with 40.5mm filters):<br />Lubitel-166: 1977 (76 ?)-1980 (81 ?), 69.120 made. Lens T-22 triplet F4.5 max speed 1/250 no selftimer but frames counter.<br />Lubitel-166 B: 1980-1990; 906.248 made. Lens T-22 triplet F4.5 max speed 1/250 + selftimer + frames counter. Special 1980's Olympic version available with a different front name plate.<br />Lubitel-166 Universal: 1983 (84 ?)-1996; 412.187 made. Lens T-22 triplet F4.5 max speed 1/250 + selftimer + no frames counter but red windows (because possibility to shoot 6x4.5 with mask).<br>

Remarks:<br />1) In russian, "Lubitel" means amateur.<br />2) Even within same version (at least for the Lubitel-2), you can find different bodies and spec. It's surely due to use of different molds -> conclusion it's not sure that you can use the door of 1 camera to repair another one. Info coming from personal experience. <br />3) Most of these Lubitel are available with name writed with roman or cyrilic alphabet.<br>

4) actual version of Lubitel sold by lomographic society are fitted with accessory for use of 35mm film. That accessory is (until now) not available without a new camera.</p>

[old school]

<p>I've got several lubitels and sputniks (the stereo version of a lubitel). I always go for the Lubitel 166u as it has a better catch to hold the film door closed (166b might have to be taped as it has a catch that can be accidently caught and opened mid film). The 166u has a little rotating dial that locks the film door. Never had any light leaks or other problems with these cameras providing you are careful when loading/unloading film etc. The shutter release takes a little practice getting used to (as its small and fiddly or use a cable release) and get into a good practice of always winding on the film either always before or always after shooting (but be consistent which you chose) that way you avoid multiple or blank exposures where you wind on because you are not sure. I always wind on straight after a shot, as that is what you do when you finish a film... <br>

This picture <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/5431421">http://www.photo.net/photo/5431421</a> was taken with one of my Lubitel 166us. I think it demonstrates that when the conditions are just right the lens "glows" and is the reason I love these cheap marvels (don't be put off by people calling them "toy" cameras - I think they are good/basic starter/cheap TLRs that can produce great results). Don't bother with 35mm insert for lubitel. Using 120 film and the full negative and cropping later is much easier,</p>

[clive1]

<p>I shoot with two glass-lens Holgas (120GN) almost everyday. Excellent lightweight, tough and cheap MF cameras that produce suprisingly good results, as long as light, film speed, etc is properly taken into account. I've found Fujifilm Acros 100 best for bright daytime sunshine and Kodak Tri-X@400 to 1600 for out-of-sunlight conditions right thru to nightime with lots of ambient light. Develop yourself.</p>

<p>If you keep the back hinges tightly sprung, taping is not necessary to avoid light leaks. The 120GN has a hot shoe, tripod screw and bulb (B) option. Each camera comes with 6x6 and 6x4.5 masks. Use neither for classic Holga vignetting. You can easily mod a shutter release cable onto the front (search Flickr for a simple how-to), which means you can shoot long exposures using a tripod. I will also stick my neck out here and say invest in the Holga filter set, which comprises filter holder, set of colour filters, set of colour soft surround filters and set of spilt filters.</p>

<p>However, if you want that classic unsharp Holga look, then choose the original plastic lens Holga 120N, as the glass lenses can be shockingly sharp for a krap kam.<br>

<br /> <a href="http://fotogrotto.wordpress.com/"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3296/3080343329_54b5e6fc40.jpg?v=0" alt="" /> </a> <br /> Tokyo | Holga 120GN | Acros (100)</p>

[louis_c]

<p>I purchase a 120 N and a Lubitel 166U. They are awesome. But I wish someone had told me Yashica A is a cheap TLR as well. My Lubitel turn out w/some good picture I turn in as a assigment,<br>

Thank you.</p>