taking a film class- body recommendations.

[dansutton]

<p>i looked at the F100, and it seems too big and bulky and computerish than what i'm looking for<br>

i think that i really like teh idea of an old, hopefully made fun of in the class, 60's or 70's body that has the most satisfying mechanical clunk when the shutter actuates. i would like for it to have no bells and whistles, except perhaps a really nice focusing screen and availability to use my 50/1.8 or even better to find some smooth focusing manual 50 or even 35 that makes me hate all of the plastic that i currently appreciate as acceptable on my d90. <br>

these ideas are pushing me towards the FM which i like as it only needs a battery for the meter, and otherwise is purely mechanical if i'm ont mistaken. i don't want autofocus, matrix meter, or any LCD screen. i want camera, and more importantly, ideas where i have to use my machined little tool to bring out the picture in my head.</p>

[dansutton]

<p>i'm liking the FM2 or the FM but i'm also leaning towwards an offer of an N8008s that may prove to be too generous to pass up. all of the suggestions have been quite nice and informative. </p>

[pasi_h_gg]

<p>My 0.02: FG/FG-20. Small, light (mostly metal anyway), cheap and above all has a needle stick meter display which in my hands provides superior ease in applying over-under-exposure. Have fun !</p>

[danielheller]

<p>Pick up an Asahi Pentax Spotmatic II or Pentax Spotmatic F with a SMC (Super Multi Coated) Takumar 50mm f/1.4 (This is a screw mount superb lens). Everything is manual and no other camera is simpler to operate than this one. To get the camera's internal TTL metering make sure the meter is operational and calibrated to take 1.5V silver oxide batteries. This camera was and to some still remains a beautifull piece of machinery. You might be able to get the camera and lens for $75-100 on the big auction site.<br>

And then of course is the one that started it all, the NIKON FTn....but that is a little more expensive.<br>

To see superb results, shoot Kodachrome 64 before it is gone forever!</p>

[paulie_smith]

<p>My vote goes for the tried and true Nikon F3. Some very nice bodies can be had for $100-200. They are one of the finest bodies Nikon ever produced. Rugged and comfortable to use. If you want you can add a number of options in the future and you will likely have the body for a few decades.<br>

The FM or FM2 is a nice low cost manual alternative. If I were going that route I would go with the older pro model, the F2 or even the original F body. With the low prices on film bodies these days the old pro bodies in good condition are still very cheap.</p>

[BelaMolnar]

<p>One more time Dan. . . . Go for a most simple manual camera available to you, a meter with a needle, and a couple of b/w film in the beginning. Learn the camera inside and outside, buy a scrap, faulty one for a couple of dollar and taking it apart to see and feel, what is inside, then you going to learn to grown to the cameras, function, you going to understand everything how the camera works, and this way, you going to understand later on much, much better, everything and you going to manipulate your more sophisticated cameras later, much better. You not going to regret later all those small steps, most of the beginners skipped, and never learned, and they have problem later on. I had mentioned the Nikon FM, because plenty out there and cheep, but very sturdy cameras. I have one, from time immemorial, and never needed a repair or such, only new battery for the light meter, and still working perfectly after 30+ years. Get the cheapest old 50 or better the 35mm lens, and shoot lots of film, develop and learn, learn a lot. Good luck. I see people, amateur "photographers" never learned the basics, taking some time good images, but they using they 1000 - 5000 dollar cameras as a "point and shoot" cameras, total automatization. And when a complicated situation come up, they are in the dark, or, they shoot only street good exposed images, in good lighting situ only. Some time concentrating on the camera as a fashion item, more then the lenses, ignoring the fact, the lens making you images, not the camera, and most importantly, the photographer making the images not the camera. A cheapest and most simple camera in an expert hand can produce better images, then a 10,000 dollar camera in a hand of poorly trained, learned amateur.</p>

<p>Build a solid foundation, and you house going to stand no mater what. I hope, you know, what I mean. Force yourself to learn the basic, and after that, you just playing, enjoy your work, not straggling as many I see some time.</p>

[gary_watson]

<p>Truisms and holy relics aside, get the newest and cheapest body available, probably the late AF models like the 8008s/N90s. They have spot metering and vastly better flash metering with older Speedlights like the SB24/25/26/28. I recently bought a clean N90s for $60 with truly useful bells and whistles like its electronic rangefinder for focus confirmation with manual lenses. Your call, naturally, but older isn't always better.</p>

[robert_landrigan]

<p>I's say either an N90s, under a 100 bucks and a great, greta camera, or spend a but extra for a F2 or F3. </p>

[tree]

<p>While I think an N90s is a great camera (I used one for years, and still use it as a backup to an F100), and one that can go fully manual, IMHO someone starting out is better off with a F2 or FG: the physicality of turning dials and rings is really important when starting out.</p>

[glockman99]

<p>Unless you are planning on tossing the film camera away after you finish with your photography class, spend the money and invest in an F3 or F3HP. Trust me on this.</p>

[Christopher Sperry Photogr]

<blockquote>

<p>"i don't want autofocus, matrix meter, or any LCD screen"</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Nikon FM. Inexpensive, and ideally suited to the assignment. Rugged construction that keeps working even in the extreme cold. A classic for traveling light, and a perfect back-up body. Accurate metering. Elegant simplicity. Although I shoot with an F4, I get great satisfaction and great results when using my FM.</p>

<p>I also keep my Nikon N8008s as another back-up body. It's a good camera, but I vote against it for your class. The motorized film advance could reduce the thoughtful nature that a class should inspire. The film transport on the FM is so smooth, it's part of the enjoyment of using the camera. The N8008s has an LCD screen that is a totally different interface as compared to the FM's LED's. I have always had to make sure that I carry 4 extra batteries whenever I head out with my N8008s. If you get a real killer deal on an N8008s, go ahead, but pick up an FM also.</p>

<p>The FM is perfect for long time exposures, uses the self-timer for mirror lock-up, and has multiple exposure capabilities.</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

 

</blockquote>

[sven_felsby]

<p>FM2n - still in use along my D200. Best film body ever made (although the F3HP is nice for us wearing glasses!)<br>

Replaced a stolen FM. Only drawback: lens metering prong cannot flip up to accomodate pre-AI lenses.<br>

Advantages: several, first of all auto-shut off meter that doesn´t drain your battery just beacause you didn´t flip the lever back along the bpdy!</p>

[josephbraun]

<p>you can find super cheap nikons on ebay... the n6006 or n90s are great!</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Yeh, the N6006 can be a bargain as long as the silly plastic film door latch isn't broken. I use tape to keep mine shut. Good camera but not cost effective to repair so I use it as-is. A few years ago a local camera shop had a basket full of N6006's they were practically giving away.</p>

<p>A bargain basement version of the N8008. Features full manual override, works with any AI, AI-S or AF Nikkor (not AF-S or "G" types); program, averaging and spot metering; DX ISO code or manual override for pushing film or handloaded cassettes. Still my only autofocus/autoexposure era Nikon film body, very handy for those occasions when I need those features.</p>

[stwrtertbsratbs5]

<p>I've always liked the FE2. It was my very first SLR - purchased new.</p>

[mtk]

<p>True mechanical box? Nikon "F" with a 1.4 or 1.8 or 2.0 50mm. Nothing built/works/sounds like it in the world!</p>

[Dave Luttmann]

<p>Love the F3HP. I couldn't afford one when they came out....but now that they are so cheap, I couldn't resist a while back!</p>

[stephen_asprey2]

<p>FM2n or FE2...I have both. I'll never sell them.</p>