Sorry, another 70-200mm 4L query

[chito_baclig]

I feel like returning my first pro Canon 70-200mm 4L for 2.8L but

costly still. I love this lens in brightly lit (sunny, outside). But

when I tried it with a Canon 550ex flash in a dimly lit large

Cathedral church (client was a Priest), the background is

underexposed (alot). At 200mm and the subject is far, the background

is almost correctly exposed (still underexposed) but at 70mm and the

subject is near, the background is almost pitch black. I am almost

embarassed to mentioned this but I used ISO 200 film which was the

only available film my boss brought (He videos, I photo. I told him

to bring ISO 400s but he said it is a bright church. He did not blame

me of the result). Another hard lesson, always bring spare.

 

On the good side, the object was perfectly exposed with a nice skin

tone. And the client was happy of the result (framing specially). It

is so much alive the mother said. But I really felt I could have done

better.

 

Since I do both outside (bright sunny days) and interiors (mostly

churches), the interior in general so far is unacceptable with flash.

I saw a pro with no flash that day taking pictures inside the church

and a zoom lens too and was told that he is a photojournalist. I want

to go back to that large church to test this lens with no flash like

him. I will use an ISO 400 (Fuji bought in Walmart), F4 aperture and

tripod. Now my problem is what shutter speed to use for 70, 85, 100,

135 and 200 mm that will correctly exposed the background on both far

and near focused object. Please advice on how to get the best result

using the right combination.

 

And again, I love this lens in all situations other than this dimly

lit church. If the skin tone was bad, I could have returned it, but I

hope I can still find a way to use in this situation. I also plan to

use this lens in my sister's wedding in March 2003, portrait at 135mm

(?). Hope to be better by then.

Thank you,

 

jude

 

- newbie in photo, hoping to be a pro

- will go to school this fall

[markci]

What you're describing has nothing to do with the lens. When the background is at a much greater distance than the subject, it's not possible to expose them both equally using the flash: the subject, being closer, will receive more exposure and the background will be underexposed. The closer the subject, the greater the difference and the worse the background will be.

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Of course there are some situations where a f/2.8 lens will let you shoot without flash where an f/4 lens wouldn't. That's why people buy f/2.8 lenses. It's impossible to tell if that's the case here, though, and an f/2 prime would be better than the f/2.8 zoom anyway.

<p>

<i>

Now my problem is what shutter speed to use for 70, 85, 100, 135 and 200 mm that will correctly exposed the background on both far and near focused object.

</i>

<p>

Again, the problem you experienced with an underexposed background was due to flash use. Eliminate the flash and you eliminate the problem.

[bill_goldman]

You didn't provide any data as to exposure mode, shutter speed, aperture, etc. used for your church pictures, nor why you couldn't get closer and had to use a telephoto zoom lens but I here are some thoughts I had. Yes, a faster lens such as the 70-200mm f/2.8L would have served your purpose a little better, especially with faster film. If you could have gotten closer you could have used a shorter, fixed focal length lens, such as a 135mm f/2, 100mm f/2, 85mm f/2, 50mm f/1.4 or f/1.8, if you have one; or could borrow or rent one. Also, a wide angle lens up close to your subject could have been used for an environmental portrait effect. All of the above without flash, of course.

 

However, assuming you used program mode for your flash pictures, here's an alternative, right out of the 550EX manual (page 28):

 

"In-low light situations, the exposure level can be balanced between the subject and background by using a slow sync speed. You can obtain balanced flash exposures automatically by setting the camera's picture-taking mode to Av. The camera then sets the sync speed to suit the background. Using a tripod is recommended to prevent camera shake."

 

Be aware that when you use Av or Tv mode, you are setting exposure for the ambient light conditions and the flash is only providing flash fill. However, it can be effective in the above scenario as the flash will freeze the subject and the long exposure will properly expose the background. You can also set your own choice of aperture and shutter speed (manual mode) and the flash will provide the proper exposure (of the subject) in which case you may be able to compromise and get closer to exposing the background somewhat but without using a tripod.

 

These are only some of the options you have to adapt to your situation. For instance, since you have a 550EX, and if your camera supports E-TTL wireless multi-flash, getting another 550EX or a 420EX, you can use one flash unit on-camera and another set up to illuminate the background.

 

Hope this helps.

[NK Guy]

Regarding your flash problem, have a look at the FAQ section of

my EOS flash photography article:

<P>

<A HREF= "http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/#faq9"

>http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/#faq9</A>

[peza]

Keep the lens, buy tripod and/or evetually another 550EX or el-cheapo slave flash if you know how to calculate f-stops according power ambient light ratios etc.<br>

NPZ & f/2.8 lens will make world of difference, for sure. Instead of buying costly big f/2.8 zoom you may consider 85 or 100mm f/1.8 or f/2 primes respectively.

[chito_baclig]

Why telephoto? It was a solemn affair and as much as possible I try to go far and in the sideline, reason I was very disgusted that day for using the flash (I can't stop my pro boss, he uses flash always, most of his digital flash backup shots that day went to garbage). If only I came prepared, I could have very well rented primes (really hope to learn a lot from this).

 

From the facts you all have given which I am very greatfull, I am more towards selling/returning and go back to the drawing board, or maybe buy when I finish the class. What Petr said is what I am still considering though, buy 1 more prime 135mm f/2, I have the Canon 50mm 1.8II. Let me get back to my computer job and hope to see more later for more thoughts and hope I get less confuse (honestly, I believe I am getting bias with my 4L).

Thank you.

jude