What is the ideal W/S for a portrait setup

[sun_p]

<p>Hello Gurus,<br>

I am a beginner and am just planning to setup a basic single flashgun, reflector in my home (about 15-20 feet by 8 feet). I plan to start taking portraits of single to max 3 people) and could be either head shots or full body. This is not for professional purpose as such. I use a nikon D40 and am currently have the 18-55 kit lens, but am planning to get a portrait lense soon. I am talking only for indoors and not for outdoor use.</p>

<p> My question to all you gurus is what would the ideal W/S value be for my situation as mentioned above. (Again mostly 1 person, 3 max sometimes, and either face to full body) be. I have a configuration which gives me 250W/s and comes with a 60 * 60 rectangular strobe? The minimum possible in that is 125W/S. Is this power enough to get me nice shots?</p>

<p> By nice shots above I meant, I love those face portraits where the face has very good light. infact it makes the face glow. I somehow dont like the regular ones. Forgive me for saying that.</p>

<p>Also, I dont plan to keep the strobe very far from the person. So is 250w/s enough? The other configuration is 500 W/s but I am on a buget so will take it only if 250W/S is not enough.</p>

<p>I know there is no specific answer to this question as I read on another thread, but I just tried to give you all my current situation and my requirements so that hopefully based on your experience, I could get an answer. For a beginner, all of this is a bit overwhelming!</p>

<p>thank you for your time!<br>

Sunil</p>

[carlos_rodriguez3]

<p>Sunil:<br>

I have used 300 ws at many portraits: from 1 to 5, head, head and shoulder, half body and full body. Apertures will range from 5.8 to 11 depending on distance (to your subjects)and your light may range from 1/8 (head shots) to 1/2 for goups shots. ISO 200 in all of them.<br>

250ws wil be enought for half body shots and head shots, but maybe you will need more power for larger groups. Of course, if you are comfortable rising your ISO to 400 or 800, you can compensate the lack of light. You will get more grain, but it can be done.<br>

I am using umbrellad, and I believe Soft boxes diminishes output power for your subject, so be aware of this. I am not sure how much ligh you lose but it maybe 1 to 2 stops.<br>

Hope this helps</p>

<p> </p>

[kelly_flanigan1]

<p>Its Watt Seconds; ie WS or Ws; not Watts per second ie W/S.<br /> <br /> Watt Seconds in energy; ie Joules.</p>

<p>Watts per second is the rate of change of power; like power spike at a power plant.</p>

<p>If your use W/S talking about strobes;<br /> <br /> it is like saying one is using a 1/4-20 Fstop;<br /> <br /> or a F8 shutter speed;<br /> <br /> or a iso of 35mm film;<br /> gooble gook.</p>

<p>What iso setting are you planning on using with your strobe work?<br>

The energy in the flash unit in watt seconds; ie joules does not directly relate to light output in an exact manner. One has the bulb type; shape; efficieny; an a zillion shapes of reflectors and sizes.</p>

[kelly_flanigan1]

<p>Here I like to use two strobes; the other guy can be smaller too</p>

[andrea_lee3]

<p>One light? If you line them up you'll get shadows with an angled light and different incident readings on each if you have them t wildly differing distances from the strobe. You can try shooting into a reflective umbrella <em>behind</em> you, and you'll get a nice self-portrait in the catchlights to boot.</p>

[sun_p]

<p>Thank you Carlos,Andrea and Kelly <br />I am getting a 60 inch by 60 inch strove along with the light free so, yes it is a strobe. Andrea, Kelly it is Watts per second (joules) and I am just starting so I intend to take single people shots probably two at the most. Try with a reflector on the other side. Just learning and it is a serious "hobby" and not a profession, I am on a budget so don't want to spend too much but start with little and see how that goes, learn the basics and then invest in more. But I dont want to buy something which after a couple of days I realise is not of much use. Thats why I asked this question. My primary reason for the light is for portrait based on the conditions I described in my original post. So I wanted advice from all you experts based on your experience since I have none. Currenly if someone tells me 500W/S I will just go and buy that :) If someone says 250W/S i will go and get that, but thats because I am still to understand the nuances of light and how to capture that. So I was looking at one deal which was 250W/S that I was getting but I dont want to get something which after a few days I realise is too less. So if 500W/s is the min for my conditions I will invest in that, if not, then 250 to begin with and then I can add on later.</p>

<p>Also, Carlos, currently, I have not fixed plans of shooting at 200 only. My camera gives great results in 400, 800 also.</p>

<p>Thank you all!</p>

<p>Cheers,<br />Sunil</p>

[john tonai]

<p>Simply put, no one can answer your question with a simple this is the right answer. Those who do are making assumptions that could mislead. Watt seconds ratings have nothing, REPEAT-NOTHING, to do with the amount of light that strikes the subject. If you have a monolight, they tend to me more efficient with their power and will be brighter for the watt second listing as a powerpack strobe. Even in powerpack strobes, different companies will have different efficiencies, thus different powers. If you shoot without a modifier the light output is more efficient than if you put a silver umbrella, which is more efficient than a white umbrella.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>I love those face portraits where the face has very good light. infact it makes the face glow. I somehow dont like the regular ones.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This makes no sense at all. You want the face to overexpose?</p>

[sun_p]

<p>Hi John,</p>

<p> I understand that there is no specific answer, thats the reason why I tried to post my current requirements, right from size of room, to strobe details, to what I am interested in. As mentioned I am a beginner and have "No" experience and thats why I turned to the gurus here. I am not looking for a exact and accurate answer but just for a generic once if based on my conditions this configuration works or not. For example Alien Bees have 200W/S and many people have used that to product great snaps..so if people have used that and feel that that is okay or if it lacks something. Unfortunately I dont get that here, i am getting one with 250W/s locally made, or I can get Elichrome 200W/S monolights as seen on the site. I just wanted to know if that would be okay for a beginner and later i can expand by buying more elichrome lights. So a anwser like Carlos's does help a lot. I understand what you are saying but as a beginner its difficult to understand how much difference it would make if a diffuser is used or if it is used directly. Thats the reason why i ask..</p>

<p>Well to answer your second question, yes a little over exposure, mostly like what you see in portfolios of actors/acress etc.. I guess, thats about getting the proper exposure, but proper light also gives very good effects.</p>

<p>thanks</p>

[john_bolton2]

<p>Start with a single AlienBees B800 (320 WS) and a heavy duty stand. You won't regret it. Also, go ahead and spend an extra $130 now for AB's CyberSync CSR and CST. The last time I used a sync cord was the first time my leg caught it and brought my $1100 camera and $1700 lens crashing to the floor. Fortunately it was a carpeted floor, so I was only embarassed by the mishap--but never again.</p>