john tonai

<p>It is called clamshell lighting Google for setups</p>

<p>Watt Seconds is NOT an output measure, it is an energy unit (also known as a joule). The efficiency of the flash tube, the circuitry of the power unit, etc. will affect the output amount so you need to know the guide number of the different flashes to see a true comparison. For example, while not a monolight like the Indra, a Speedotron 2401A pack puts out almost 1 stop more light than a Speedotron 2405CX pack</p>

<p>I think that most of the time photographers don't do a good job of designing their own logos. Logo design is more than just making a cool symbol. If you can't/don't want to hire a designer, see if you can find a designer who is willing to do a work trade. The BoxCam symbol you showed is generic-the exact opposite of what you want a logo to be.</p>

<p>It is also the same size as the Phase One IQ3 50 back and 20mm smaller than the IQ3 100 back. Still, since people are so hung up on the label "medium format" it might have been better to come up with a new name</p>

<p>"...prefer as big as I can afford as long as I don't have to buy a mule to lug the thing around." I think is why Fuji went with this size. I wish they didn't call it medium format because that label is causing the controversy. If they called it something like Double FF (stupid name, I know) then people wouldn't be all upset. It isn't much larger than the GA645, similar weight (although the lens does add more weight to the GFX). For long studio sessions and going on long hikes, this combination is ideal. As a landscape only camera, an alternative is the Alpa/Phase One. But, it does have some advantages over the Alpa/Phase One system in that it is more flexible (the Alpa/P1 isn't a studio camera, much more expensive, not easily hand held). I use the Phase One/Mamiya 645 camera and it is very tiring to hold it for a long studio session and carrying it on hikes truly sucks. The Hasselblad is an option that isn't too much more expensive. While a lot of people are making a big deal over the leaf shutter/focal plane shutter differences, I just use ND filters for key shifting. I like the reduced cost and weight of FP lenses</p>

<p>Maybe, but I'll wait until it comes out, do some test shots before deciding that it isn't for me</p>

<p>A second shooter is part of a professional team. By your description of this person, they aren't ready for this. I would always meet with the person so see if I even like their personality/professionalism and then maybe invite them to observe and carry your camera bag, but NOT shoot, and not be paid. If you do this, you should also give advance warning to the B/G. </p>

<p>http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~westin/misc/mounts-alphabetical.html</p>

<p>I've been using Affinity since it was in beta and I'd like to help him, but he hasn't responded to my questions.</p>

<p>Green bleed through the mask? or green bleeding onto the person? or other?</p>

<p>Couple issues with this request. First, a portrait can be a headshot, 1/2, 3/4 or full length portrait. These generally are done with different focal lengths. Second, you mentioned that "all i see is shots with bokeh". Bokeh is a QUALITY of the out of focus areas, not a noun. I'm assuming that you only are seeing shots with shallow depth of field and that you want greater, or more depth of field. If you want more depth of field, you need to use the smaller apertures of lenses. In addition, a shorter focal length lens also has more depth of field at the same aperture of longer lenses</p>

<p>A. It is good deal. Make sure the shutter is accurate<br> B. Yes<br> C. It takes the standard 4x5 film holders<br> D. Yes. Only the longest focal length lenses and the ones with large diameter shutters may not fit. Lens boards are separate from the lenses unless the one you buy happens to come with one that fits your camera</p>

<p>Your location would help</p>

<p>Santa Monica and Santa Susanna Mountains, the beach, Griffith Park</p>

<p>Mohamed, I have Nikon Coolscan IV for sale. Similar to the 4000, but USB not Firewire. You would need to buy Vuescan or Silverfast since Nikon doesn't support scanners anymore</p>

<p>If the digital shutter causes the sensor to be active more before the shot, it will heat up the sensor. The hotter the sensor, the more noise</p>

<p>My favorite presets are the ones I make for specific looks</p>

<p>That is a problem with lightweight tripods. I carry a bag that I can fill with rocks/sand/dirt that slightly drags on the ground (You don't want weight to swing around).</p>

<p>I had previously worked on a "photographer involvement" series mostly to see how people what viewed the show would react. Element of the show were going to require the viewer to also make contact with the photographs. I killed the series because my model became a teacher and I didn't want to jeopardize her career.</p> <p>Still this is a fascinating study into how passive/active the viewers at an art show behave. (I'm not saying that this is why he did these photos)</p>

<p>The protectant film that he wants to put on his screen?</p>

<p>But they say it is professional image quality, so it must be true. I'm especially impressed on how they managed to make the phone sensor as good as APS-C and Full frame camera to get that professional image quality</p>

<p>You didn't mention the size of the prints. The most practical for this type of work is a dye sublimation printer. They print much faster than inkjet. DNP is a good standard printer<br> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Dye-Sub-Thermal-Printers/ci/1108/N/3752970767</p>

<p>Canon also made a data back for the original F-1s, but I'm not sure when they started making them</p>

<p>Bob, how does one advance the film with one of these adapters?</p>

<p>Check the bottom left corner in the camera. The mark looks like it is caused by something in the camera</p>