Dismantling a Fidelity Elite

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>Question: How do you take apart a 5x4 Fidelity Elite DDS? Any info welcome.</p>

<p>I have a few of these in various states of wear and disrepair (bent locking pins, worn flaps etc.) and believe I could make one or two of them fully operational by cannibalising the rest. The only trouble is that I can find no easy way to take them apart. Are they glued together or what?</p>

<p>I'm loathe to remove the ivorine strips to look for hidden screws until I know that it's not going to be a waste of time.</p>

<p>Think I'll stick with Toyo holders in future, at least the screws are visible!</p>

[chris_nauta]

<p>I hacked one up a few weeks ago to make a ground glass holder. There were no screws that I found...... I wound up having to rip the end piece with vice grips. I doubt if it would be serviceable. I came to the conclusion that it is glued or molded together.</p>

[frank_menesdorfer]

<p>Good question Rodeo I have the same problems. I think as far as I can see they are molded together. That is the reason I never begin with the job. I got a lots of 8x10 too. If somebody done this and can share it with us it would bring back some of it thats for sure.</p>

[bruce_watson1]

<p>If it's a glue, there should be one or more solvents that you can soak the film holder in to allow you to eventually (it could take days) pull it apart.</p>

<p>My understanding, and it may be completely off the wall, is that Calumet Photographic (Chicago) owned the last "factory" making film holders in the USA. It was in LA somewhere and there was just one guy left making film holders. It was the place where all the Fidelity, Lisco, etc. film holders came from. After years of industry consolidation of course.</p>

<p>So... if anyone knows how to take a film holder apart, it is probably the Technical Service people at Calumet.</p>

<p>If you find out, please post an answer here. I too would like to know.</p>

[doremus_scudder1]

<p>For what it's worth, I've "renovated" a few 4x5 filmholders of various brands. The Fidelety and Lisco models are all similar, and do not easily come apart. No screws or other fasteners. </p>

<p>Flaps are easy to take off and interchange with the same type of holder. I use bookbinding tape, nylon tape or, in a pinch, gaffers' tape to retape the flaps. As long as the flaps are held on securely, they will be light-tight. It is not necessary to have light-tight tape.</p>

<p>Locking pins I simply do not worry about. The plastic ziploc bags I store each filmholder in keeps the darkslide from moving. Most of the pins in my holders, especially the newer ones, turn way too easily anyway. They are simply not reliable.</p>

<p>The film sceptums also are permanently attached, but can be repainted with flat black paint if there is metal showing. Mask the frame of the holder and spray lightly. They come out nicely if you prevent runs and puddles.</p>

<p>The light traps, which are essentially inaccessible, can be cleaned by soaking the holder in water with dish detergent and gently working the darkslide back and forth through the trap. This often restores the trap to total functionality. If, however, the trap still leaks light with the slide out, you may want to simply discard the holder. You can test the light trap with the holder in camera with shutter closed and the darkslide out. Set it up so the sun shines directly in the light trap for a minute or so and then develop the film. Often the trap will leak light like that when it won't with the slide inserted. It is a good idea to shade the trap whenever possible when the darkslide is pulled anyway. I use the darkcloth or hang my hat over the end of the filmholder when it's not to windy or cumbersome. For other situations, I've fashioned a cover that slips over about one inch of the end of the holder from the black cardboard of old sheet-film boxes that fits more tightly and will stay on in the wind.</p>

<p>Finally, I have had trouble with light leaks with the two-piece Lisco and Fidelity holders (the newer ones are one-piece). The seams sometime separate a little leaving a small grove just below the seating ridge where light can leak in. I've had good luck filling and re-attaching these with black PVC pipe cement. Let it dry completely and sand or file down flush.</p>

<p>For getting crud from stickers, tape and markings off used holders, I first try a large white eraser. It removes much more than one would think. If that doesn't do the job, fingernail polish remover, lighter fluid, GOO-GONE and whatever else I can think of or have at hand gets call into service. </p>

<p>Hope this helps some,</p>

<p>Doremus Scudder</p>

[vinny_walsh]

<p>The Fidelity building Bruce mentioned is next door to Calumet here in Hollywood. The door was open now and again up until about 2 years ago. I really wanted to poke my head in there but never did and now that it's closed up I regret it. I bet there's cool stuff to play with in there.</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>Thanks for all the responses, especially yours Doremus - most informative. From the sound of it, I've got nothing to lose by trying to slit the things apart with a craft knife at the seams, but I think they might all be headed for the bin, which is a bit of a shame.</p>