saad_m Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 <p>I'm getting into photographing weddings professionally now. I have an sb800 and an sb 600. Im thinking of adding a third flash, to leave on a stand bounced into the ceiling etc as background fill, and as a backup. Im not sure whether i should get the 600, an 800 (i know its doscontinued but lots around), or the new 900? I have a Nikon D90, so i dont really use the sb800 as a commander for CLS.</p> <p>Any thoughts?</p> <p>Saad</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elliot1 Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 <p>I would consider getting a SB-900 to use as your main flash (if you have the budget for it). If you are on a tight budget, the 600 will obviously work fine.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elliot1 Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 <p>Another thing to consider is the limited working range of the built-in flash when used as a commander. You may want to consider a SU-800 to trigger your flashes for extended range. It also eliminates the annoying pre-flash and will not 'add' unwanted light from the on-board flash.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanbreadsell Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 <p>i have a SB-900 on a D90 and it's massive and huge and i don't even nearly use it to the potential that you do....but I love it, well worth the money!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_in_PA Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 <p>Already have a 600 and 800? I would actually consider just a 600. Then you'd have three flashes controlled from the camera at a great price. I doubt you'll see the difference much between a well-shot photo with 2 600s and an 800 and one taken with a 900, a 600, and an 800.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saad_m Posted March 12, 2009 Author Share Posted March 12, 2009 <p>"You may want to consider a SU-800 to trigger your flashes for extended range. It also eliminates the annoying pre-flash and will not 'add' unwanted light from the on-board flash."<br> With the D90, you can turn the onboard flash off, so it doesnt contribute to the exposure.</p> <p>I reckon Ill go the 600 from what you guys have said so far. Thanks!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_skomial Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 "With the D90, you can turn the onboard flash off, so it doesnt contribute to the exposure." - not exactly true, but there are other (filter over flash) or configurable remedies (e.g. FP). It was explained many times why...search the net. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cherubinphotography Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 <p>I'd go with a SB-600.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saad_m Posted March 12, 2009 Author Share Posted March 12, 2009 <p>on the d90, or sb800, you can change the mode of the flash to m, ttl, or to ---. Doesnt the --- mean its not contributing to the exposure?</p> <p>Saad</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_skomial Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 <p>"on the d90, or sb800, you can change the mode of the flash to m, ttl, or to ---. Doesnt the --- mean its not contributing to the exposure?" </p> <p>- it does not produce light to exposure when D90 flash is in FP mode, but does contibute exposure light in iTTL and iTTL/BL modes. However, in FP mode or iTTL it produces pre-flashes that are causing closed eye effect on portraits. The SU800 is completely IR (invisible) light as the best solution. </p> <p>When flash is in iTTL or iTTL/BL mode but not in FP mode, even if set to "--" always produces faint final trigger light when shutter is open. If this light is visible or significant in the picture? - that depends on ISO, F-Stop and the shooting distance.</p> <p>The amount of the CLS or FP amount of faint trigger light is determined by the max range of the CLS system (and ISO, F-stop) - something that users of Radio Poppers, or future users of the new upcoming Pockeet Wizard system may need to be aware of. That is Radio Popper and new PW extends the triggering range but does not extend the CLS through the lens light determination range. This was explained in much lengthy discussions earlier this year.</p> <p>For FP mode the trigger faint flash happens before the shutter opens, and starts the FP stroboscopic sequence and shutter openning. The strobing FP light that covers shutter travel time across the sensor.</p> <p>For SB-800 as the commander in camera hot shoe, the "--" does produce faint trigger light when the shutter is open. When the flash is not in FP mode it does not procude light to exposure, but that would be big loss of resources an not use the SB00 light.</p> <p>The final trigger light is very faint and is usually visible in macro, portraqir, or close focus with high ISO or lens wide open.</p> <p>Take picture of yourself in front of a mirror with D90 flash in iTTL or iTTL/BL mode AND with the flash set to "--" and see for yourself.</p> <p>Take picture of yourself in front of a mirror and flash in FP and see for yourself. </p> <p>For complete and lengthy step-by-step and other discussiosn... search the net.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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