College Student: Help with Project

[brian_austin2]

<p>Hi, I am a college student working on a project that is documenting the lives of eight freshmen. I was wondering what you would suggest to use for lighting. Im a little stuck up on it. Ive been shooting everything so far with wide apertures (1.2, 1.4 ect up to 3.5) and no lighting. Im wondering if I even need it honestly. What are the feelings on levels of perfection in this type of photography? Like for example Tulsa by Larry Clark is highly regarded, they are not perfect....so are other series ive seen by other photographers and im doubting any of them used lighting. Im guessing all they had was one of two lenses and a camera that is it. Can I stay on this path and still have respected photos? Thing is im getting really good stuff here and well i want to make sure im doing this all right. I have a few vivitar 285 hvs with wireless triggers, but im not too good with them. I could even carry one with me, but im having trouble figuring it out so it balanced to the constant changing scene. Do you understand what im getting at? Any help would be awesome! thank you!<br>

Brian</p>

[michael s.]

<p>Can't offer you guidance on flash, Brian, as I rarely use it and have no expertise.</p>

<p>But as to your more general question, if you are documenting 'the lives' of these freshmen my sense is that your project's success will depend upon whether your photos are interesting and authentic, not whether you balanced the light or showed mastery of different flash techniques. </p>

<p>(I'm answering not knowing the specifics of your assignment, so I may be missing something.)</p>

[chad_hahn]

<p>I would say that if you definitely feel the need for flash and want spontaneous pictures then you should bounce your flash into a white card strapped to the flash. This will help eliminate that "flash" look and will be a lot more adaptable to changing situations then multiple slaved flashes.</p>

<p>Chad</p>

[john_elder1]

<p>Stick with availble light, high speed film and fast prime lens,</p>

[clive1]

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<p >If you're adamant about using a flash, you may want to shoot with a slow shutter speed. This may prove particularly effective if you're shooting movement shots. I'm guessing you're using a digicam, which makes it all much easier as you can tweak speeds as you go along. Here's a recent Holga example (shot on bulb setting).<br>

<a href="http://fotogrotto.wordpress.com/"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3472/3291637548_3a4054bcbb.jpg?v=0" alt="" /></a></p>

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[philipward]

<p>Stick with available light where possible but when non is available try using bounce flash off low ceilings (8 t0 12 feet) this will give a more natural look .The Vivitars are perfect for this.Set your camera at its flash sync speed or below choose an F stop EG: f5.6 .Check the white dial on the side of the flash for the proper color code for F5.6.Then set the round sensor on the front of the flash unit to to the proper color code(yellow,red whatever)to match f5.6.Raise the flash head to point it at the ceiling with the sensor facing your subject.Take a shot, its that simple.A small white card (about 3x3 inches)attached to the back of the flash head will throw some light forward to lighten the shadows.If you are using a DSLR review the shot and adjust the F stop on the flash only,if the light is not what you want.Start with one flash until you are comfortable with the procedure before you attempt multiples.But for your projest keep it simple.Good luck with your project.Post some on PN.</p>

[sarah_fox]

<p>I love the 285hv, but I don't think it's the way to go for candid photography. Same with any flash. You want to be unobtrusive, so that others will not be excessively distracted by your photography. Use available light wherever possible. Try to avoid shooting full-out wide open on any of your lenses. You're better off stopping down by a couple of stops and using higher ISO, as you'll get better sharpness. If you're not shooting digital, consider making the switch, as you can shoot with some impressively high ISO. Convert to B&W if the color noise gets too great. If you still need flash, and if you're also in a fairly well defined space (e.g. a room), you can set up the flashes for bounce lighting. Determine the manual setting on your camera that works best, and then shoot all your pics at that setting. Having the flashes off shoe somehow makes them less obtrusive. Learn to use and love your Vivitars, as there's so much that you can do with them:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.graphic-fusion.com/vivitar285mods.htm">http://www.graphic-fusion.com/vivitar285mods.htm</a></p>

[manuel barrera houston,]

<p>No flash, is what I would do, but that can be very difficult, prime lens with f/1.4 or better for low light locations and high ISO.</p>