Linear scratches on 35mm color negatives

[andrey_paramonov]

<p>Hello,<br>

I few questions on the subject of linear scratches on 35mm color negatives. Usually I process C-41 in commercial labs, primarily Costco but sometimes I use small shops. I noticed that it doesn't matter who does it for what cost ($1.50 - $5.00) I see long linear scratches going thru all the negatives (on the side of film base, other side from the emulsion). First, I wanted to blame the camera (Nikon F75/N75) but then noticed that a few B&W negs (processed manually? dip&dunk? - I have no actual idea - it was K&S @ Palo Alto, CA) are absolutely clean...<br>

In most cases infrared scanning helps to almost completely eliminate them but sometimes scratches are visible even after applying "heavy" ICE settings.<br>

What is that? Destiny of using cheap labs? May be it's a camera problem? Any experience with that situation?<br>

Thanks,<br>

Andrey</p>

[ronald_moravec1]

<p>Scratches come mostly from three places, processing, debris in film can felt lips, something in the camera usually a dirty pressure plate.<br>

If black and white is clean and color neg is kept in the original can until use and scratches are in different places, that leaves processing. I have long since given up sending out film.</p>

<p>Take a cotton ball moistened with some alcohol and clean the pressure plate. Then take a fresh one and drag it over the inside of the camera and see if it catches anything.</p>

<p>The last test is not to finish a roll of color leaving 6 unused frames. If you get scratches, it is not your camera.</p>

<p>Try a different brand color to eliminate a batch of dirty cassettes.</p>

<p>Don`t scan with ICE. Draw a marquee around the scratch in PS. Make a new layer and that selection alone goes to the new layer. Use the arrow key to move the scratch one or two pixels up or down on the new layer. Change the blend mode to lighten or darken and the scratch disappears depending on whether it is a light or dark scratch. You can clean up dirty skies easily the same way. Use the lasoo tool to select the worst area in the sky.</p>

<p>If you have multiple scratches, more than one separate marguee can be used .</p>

[steven_clark]

<p>Try a dip&dunk lab. Most places use a roller transport mechanism and if dirt gets in the machine it scratches everything.</p>

[don_e]

<p>My opinion is based on using lots of 35mm cameras and four different c41 films bought at different times and places, developed at four places this past year, and as someone who keeps the film in the container until loading, and who returns the film to the container after rewinding -- I get those scratches...but sometimes not. Unless every camera's pressure plate is flawed or every film has dirty felt, the scratch is from processing. Haven't seen it on e6, but I don't shoot it much...still, same cameras.</p>

<p> </p>

[andrey_paramonov]

<p>Thanks for the answers. More I look at the issue, more I tend to think that it may be my camera as a source of scratches.</p>

<p>Ronald,<br>

Thanks for the suggestion on masking scratches in PS. I think the best results may be in combination of light ICE and PS masking :o)</p>

<p>-Andrey</p>