A series body comparsions.

[wayne_crider4]

<p>I'm considering an A series body for color landscape work and am considering the differences between the models. The A1 has it's problems from what I recall, the AE1 and AE1P I know little of performance and handling. The AV and AL seem to be basic bodies. Overall DOF preview is probably at the top of my list. Is the reference to TTL stopped-down metering in the descriptions a reference to the capability for DOF preview like on my FTBn? Do any of the bodies offer mirror pre-release. Thanks</p>

[bsharpe411]

<p>Having used the A-1 and the FTBn for years, I'm pretty familiar with their operation. The only 'problem' I've had with the A-1 is the shutter/mirror squeal, which has been an issue with all the A-series cameras. A good CLA should resolve that problem though. I also have used the AE-1p, which essentially is a scaled-down version of the A-1. In both, the program mode and the shutter-priority mode are the same, however the AE-1p doesn't give a shutter readout in the viewfinder. The A-1 also has an aperture-priority mode. Neither will allow DOF preview with the lens set on 'A'<br>

In the A-series, since DOF is your priority, I feel the A-1 is the way to go. Set the f-stop you want on the lens, engage the stop-down lever, and the camera will select the appropriate shutter speed and display it in the viewfinder. Being old-school myself, when DOF is a major factor for me, I reach for the FTBn (which also shows shutter speed in the viewfinder), set the DOF lever, and meter down to the reference mark. Then I can tweak the f-stop easily without having to play with the A-1 exposure compensation dial.<br>

Like I said...old school</p>

<p> </p>

[HenryUK]

<p>This site gives pretty comprehensive info on the A series:<br>

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/SLRs/index.htm<br>

No A series body has mirror lock-up.<br>

Only the A-1, AT-1, AE-1, and AE-1P have depth of field preview.<br>

Stopped down metering refers to the ability to meter with the lens stopped down with FL lenses, as opposed to full aperture metering with FD lenses.<br>

My favourite is the A-1, if only because it shows speed and aperture in the viewfinder.<br>

Henry</p>

 

[awahlster]

<p>NO A series offers MLU<br>

The A-1 has no issues not shared by the other members of the A series.<br>

The AE-1 AE-1P and A-1 All have the same type of DOF preview it's a lever/push slide on the left side of the lens mount.<br>

All three share major components the shutter the meter and various parts are basically the same.<br>

The AE-1P and A-1 allow the use of the full MA motor drive and the A2 continuos winder The AE-1 will only use the single shot Winder A<br>

The AE-1P does has the single advantage of having much easier to change focusing screens. The A-1 also has the ablity to have the screen changed but it involves removing a tiny screw in the mirror box and isn't really a in the field kind of deal.</p>

<p>All three use the same battery their meters are basically the same<br>

A-1 Metering range at ISO 100 and f/1.4: EV -2 - 18. Film speed range from ISO 6 to 12800 in 1/3 steps Shutter speeds down to 30 sec.</p>

<p>AE-1P Metering range at ISO 100 and f/1.4: EV 1 - 18. Film speed range from ISO 12 to 3200 shutter speeds down to 2sec.</p>

<p>AE-1 Metering range at ISO 100 and f/1.4: EV 1 - 18. Film speed range from ISO 25 to 3200. shutter speeds down to 2sec</p>

<p>So unless the ease of changing screens is a big deal the clear winner is the A-1 followed by the AE-1P</p>

[paul_de_ley]

<p>If DOF and landscapes are your main focus then check out the all-manual AT-1 as well, it has a stop-down lever and a simple matching needle viewfinder. You would leave the lens aperture ring off the "A" setting, pick a shutter speed, meter through the VF while adjusting aperture, and then stop down to check DOF. No mirror lock-up though, just as in the other A bodies. I believe in the T series it was lacking too, although there was a way to modify the T90 for MLU as <a href="http://www.canonfd.com/ketil/index.html">described here</a> . Not sure if the boards in question can still be found for that.</p>

<p> </p>

[JDMvW]

<p>I was still a Nikonian in the days when, but now to atone for my sins, I do have the one Canon FD camera--the Canon AE-1 Program. If I had known how sweet a camera it was, I might have wavered over sooner to the Canon side.<br>

Yes, deteriorating rubber, squeal, and all, it still works beatifully. I know very little about the other A series cameras, but can recommend this one. I got it partly to run some of the loverly Canon FD lenses that are available so inexpensively, partly out of curiosity about what I had been missing.</p>

[joachim]

<p>I just remembered from an old AE-1, for stop down metering I used to adjust for the lens speed. If I had a 1.8 lens fitted, I turned the shutter and aperture with the lens stopped down until the needle showed 1.8. That is to the point that the under exposure warning just stops being active.<br>

Seems to work on the AE-1 P as well. Open aperture metering shows "5.6" in the finder. Using my stop down method, I get aperture 5.6 or 7, which agrees reasonably with the full stop finder read out.<br>

On the discussion of the <strong>squeal</strong> . This is the first time I hear about this. Anyone has sound samples how it is supposed to sound and how a squealing camera sounds? I am wondering whether, what I regard as the "typical Canon A shutter sound" is actually the squeal.</p>

[paul_de_ley]

<p>Hi Joachim, the squeal of an A-series shutter running out of lubrication is distinctive and quite different from the normal crisp shutter click of a well-maintained body. It's not high-pitched but it sounds like a protracted click mixed in with a paper sheet rubbed back and forth over a wooden desk. I'm sure other people here can come up with a better description!</p>

[joachim]

<p>Concerning the difference between A-1 and AE-1 Program, I thought the latter has the newer laser screen while the older A-1 does not. When the AE-1 Program was new, Canon made a lot of fuss about how bright the finder with the new screen was.</p>

[philip_wilson]

<p>Not sure about all models but my A1 and AE1 have no visably different improvement in viewfinder brightness - indeed my F1N's are about the same and the T90 appears slightly (marginally brighter). Canon did make some high brightness screens for the F1N but I have never used one as they are quite rare (AJ and PJ for shorter lenses, AK and PK for long lenses)</p>

[wayne_crider4]

<p>How's the mirror slap on the A bodies? Is it good enough for macro stuff? I wanted to use an A body for color work to shoot macro and fast nature shots, and my FTbn for b&w. I'll use both for landscapes.</p>

[douglas_vitello]

<p>Canon released a replacement series of laser matte focusing screens for the 'old' mechanical F1 in 1980,then they released the AE1p and F1N (electronic) that came factory issue with laser matte screens.All T series have them along with EOS.They made a huge improvement in the ability to focus in low light.If your eyes are getting old they will keep you in the manual focus game for many more good years.The pick of the litter in the A Series would be the AE1p otherwise move on to the T Series.</p>

[paul_de_ley]

<p>It's been quite a while since I used my AT-1 on an FL bellows around the 1:1 magnification range, but I used to go down to shutter speeds of 1/5th to 1/10th sec without noticeable blur in the result. At slower speeds sharpness became more erratic, which might have been partly due to mirror slap. Although at the time I was using a lightweight tripod with a right angle column that wasn't quite sturdy enough for the bellows. So I assumed poor support to be the bigger problem, and remember a lot of waiting in between outdoor shots for the breeze to let up. Those were the days of having no money, no gear and plenty of time... :)</p>

[dave_s]

<p>Wayne, it's not an answer to your question, but consider a Canon EF if you can find a good one.<br>

It has mirror lock, which no A-series Canon has (and nor does the F-1N). It also has a silicon blue photocell, whch is better than the cadmium sulfide photocell in the AT-1 and the mechanical F-1.<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8569005-lg.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<em>Canon EF, 50/1.4 SSC, mirror lock, Ilford XP2, exposure data not recorded.</em></p>

[wayne_crider4]

<p>Hey Dave thanks for that shot; Very nice. I have a 50 1.4 SSC on the way to me now.<br>

So the EF takes FD lenses?</p>

[bsharpe411]

<p>Wayne, don't get confused about the EF camera (vintage mid 70's) using the FD mount and the current EOS line using the EF mount lenses. They are NOT interchangeable. This is the camera Dave is talking about.</p><div></div>

[User_4136860]

<p>Hi Wayne, another vote for the Canon EF. I have most of the Canon FD range and this is the one I would recommend, it has mirror lock, shutter priority AE, full manual, a Silicon blue photocell, a Copal Square metal shutter, and a build quality like the F1, they aren't easy to find in good condition but worth searching for.</p>

[barryreid]

<p>It would be nice to now why you want to have an A-series over another FTb. I owned an EF a few years back but am now looking for another and while it's a very good camera, is large and heavy which may be an issue if you plan to walk with it as part of an extended kit with the FTb.</p>

<p>I currently own a complete set of A series bodies (as well ans a T90 and new F-1). The ones that have seen most use are the AT-1 and AE-1. I find the A1 to be good on paper but fiddly in reality, the AE-1P a bit easier to use but slightly lightweight. The AV-1 is very much a simplified apaerture prority auto only camera and therefore of limited use to the more advanced user. The AL-1 is better as it has a limited range of shutter speeds available and can be used in manual mode, it also has the bonus of using readily available AAA batteries.</p>

<p>Personally, most of the time, I prefer either my T90 (for speed of use and accuracy/flexibility of metering) or my new F-1 (with partial metering screen situations where I want to use a manual mode camera) over the A-series bodies.</p>

[feanolas1]

<p>I concur with Barry: why an A series when the T90 is so much better for everything?<br>

And if you are after an aperture priority body with direct DoF, the NewF1 is the only candidate I know. Add a grid screen, either partial or spot metering, a speedfinder for ease of use on tripod and you are all set!</p>

[pensacolaphoto]

<p>The A1 squeek is quite annoying. I find myself using mostly the T90, with occasional use of the F1N when the T90 is just too big. I have some of the very bright screens for the F1N. I also had Bill Maxwell treat screens for the T90 and the F1N for added brightness. </p>

[philip_wilson]

<p>I agree with the above comments - the New F1 and T90 are both better than the A series bodies. They have faster shutter speeds and are both more flexible. I actually prefer my A1 to my AE1 but this was my first Canon SLR back in 1983 when I was a student. Thus I have no problem with it's complexity. These days I find that I use the T90 the most followed by the New F1. I rarely use my AE1P or A1. The T90 has the best handling of any of the Canon SLRs in my opinion (better than the EOS film or digital bodies). The T90 is also the most versitile with sophisticated metering (e.g. multi spot) a built in winder and multiple exposure modes. The only issues with the T90 are it's not really a manual camera (nor are the A series) and it does not like to sit around unused. The New F1 is a solid and robust camera but you often find yourself carrying a kit of parts (viewfinders, motor / winder and focussing screens). It is versitlile and reliable and is probably my favourite canon SLR for Macro. The F1 is the best macro option as you can use the high magnification waist level finder. the mirror in the F1 and the T90 is noisy but with a solid tripod the lack of lock up is not an issue.</p>

[wayne_crider4]

<p>"It would be nice to now why you want to have an A-series over another FTb."</p>

<p>I actually have an FTB body as well as the FTBn, (although it does need a CLA), but would prefer a faster shooting body when I need one. I'm also not interested in the mercury cell conversion of the FTB or the work arounds. The auto exposure features of the A series plus the fact that they are metal bodies attracts me. I'm not interested in the T series plastic bodies as I could just shoot another brand I own that has the same or better features. The whole point is a reasonably inxpensive metal body with auto exposure and dof. MLU would be a plus. The F1N is too pricey, the EF seems closer to what I want to pay if I could find one, and I'm not particularly interested in getting anything off the auction site.</p>

[wayne_crider4]

<p>"It would be nice to now why you want to have an A-series over another FTb."</p>

<p>I actually have an FTB body as well as the FTBn, (although it does need a CLA), but would prefer a faster shooting body when I need one. I'm also not interested in the mercury cell conversion of the FTB or the work arounds. The auto exposure features of the A series plus the fact that they are metal bodies attracts me. I'm not interested in the T series plastic bodies as I could just shoot another brand I own that has the same or better features. The whole point is a reasonably inxpensive metal body with auto exposure and dof. MLU would be a plus. The F1N is too pricey, the EF seems closer to what I want to pay if I could find one, and I'm not particularly interested in getting anything off the auction site.</p>

[andy_game]

<p>Wayne, sounds like you´re leaning towards the Canon EF which is my favourite and most used FD camera....it has the features I need (MLU, self timer with MLU at start of cycle, 1.5v batteries, DOF preview, slow speeds to 30 secs, EV -2 metering, speed and aperture info in viewfinder, reasonably bright screen) and I just enjoy using it...it´s a real quality camera. And it´s not that expensive on ebay...where I´ve bought virtually all my FD equipment. The FTBn is a solid reliable camera with useful 12° partial metering but needs 1.3v mercuries ; the AT-1 is nice for it´s needle and loop manual metering and has DOF, but only has a CDs meter and no viewfinder info; the AV-1 is the lightest of the A series and I like it´s aperture priority which lets me select in-between shutter speeds, but sadly it has no DOF; the AE-1P is my standard street camera, I like it´s bright interchangeable screen and speed priority..I wish it displayed half stops in the viewfinder though.</p>

[philip_wilson]

<p>Wayne i would stick with KEH as you can always send them back if they are not up to scratch - over the years I have sent back a T90 body and a Contax G2. In general they have more conservative ratings than Adorama or B&H. Ex or above is in great condition.</p>