Tips wanted: D300 with 80-200 2.8 AFS

[mahmud_javid]

<p>Hi,<br>

I will be shooting pre- grade school sports (marching, races) with the above equipment. I'm not familiar with the lens, and also got my D300 recently (not a photography newbie though). Any tips would be appreciated, with reference to what focus mode I should use, motor drive or not etc. I will not be able to use a tripod, and it will be in good light (afternoon). I don't want to make a mess of it as its my childs first such occasion!<br>

Best,<br>

M Javid</p>

[michael_huizenga]

<p> This may or may not help, but here goes. I shoot soccer games for 3 of my nephews. One is 27 and plays on a regulation size field. The 80-200 is a little short for that. My 2nd nephew is 11 and plays on a half size field. This is almost the perfect range. My 3rd nephew is 6 and plays on a one-quarter size field. The 80-200 is just too long. If they are on your half of the field, they're too close. I had to switch to my 18-200 DX which worked out fine.<br>

The point is, the younger the kids, the smaller the field could be, so be prepared. I know you said marching and racing, so you probably will be fine with what you have, but just in case....<br>

I also use the d300. The small kids don't seem to move fast enough to use the motordrive, so I shoot single shot. I also set the focus to dynamic mode with 9 points. I shoot aperture priority.<br>

As for a trypod, I can't even spell it.<br>

Have fun shooting.</p>

[tim_knight]

<p>Shoot aperture and make sure you set the aperture so you have the shutter speed at 500 or better. If it is cloudy you also might have to adjust the ISO up. I use AF-Area Mode and AF-C.</p>

[mahmud_javid]

<p>Michael,<br /> Thats a very valid point which did bother me. The kids will be even younger than nephew #3, 4+ years in age. I have no idea what kind of seating I will get. I do have a 18-70 AFS, maybe I should take that instead. Too bad I dont have my trusty D70 any longer or I could have taken two bodies. I would like to shoot at f/4, do you think I will need to stop down any more (f/5.6 or 8?)<br /> I also have some primes (50 1.8, 85 1.4 and 105 f/2 DC) which will be easier to carry...any opinions about just taking the 85 1.4?</p>

<p>Tim,<br>

What aperture? (I can always increase the ISO to 400 or even 800) to get the 1/500 shutter speed?</p>

<p>Thank you for the help!</p>

[tim_knight]

<p>I don't have the 80-200/2.8 but have the Tamron 17-50/2.8 and for outdoors I like to shoot aperture at 5.6 when ever possible with the ISO at 200, seems to be the sweet spot. If you want to blur the background shoot at 2.8. Indoors shoot at 2.8 and whatever ISO gets me close to the shutter speed I need. It always depends on the lighting of the gym I am shooting in. </p>

[mahmud_javid]

<p>Michael,<br>

Thats a very valid point which did bother me. The kids will be even younger than nephew #3, 4+ years in age. I have no idea what kind of seating I will get. I do have a 18-70 AFS, maybe I should take that instead. Too bad I dont have my trusty D70 any longer or I could have taken two bodies. I would like to shoot at f/4, do you think I will need to stop down any more (f/5.6 or 8?)<br>

I also have some primes (50 1.8, 85 1.4 and 105 f/2 DC) which will be easier to carry...any opinions about just taking the 85 1.4?<br>

Thank you for the help!</p>

[eric_arnold]

<p>take the 80-200 and the 18-70 to cover all your bases. primes are not optimal for fast-moving sports, except maybe basketball, where you can predict where the action will occur.</p>

[dan_brown4]

<p>The 80-200 plus a 35/2 would cover you quite well. For action, select AF-C on the side of the lens mount, and the middle switch position on the AF area selector on the back of the camera. Move the selected AF point toward the upper area of the finder (whether in landscape or portrait orientation), and keep it on the kid's face and follow the action. Toggling the AF point around as the action goes from near to far to near is a skill you will develop. Just try not to cut their feet off!</p>

<p>I think you would be well served to get an MB10 vertical grip, because it will make vertical shooting much more productive, and give you and AF point selector in vertical mode. A monopod would also yield more keepers, especially panned shots. Don't be afraid to shoot in shutter priority, and let the aperture follow, and use ISO to bracket the range of apertures.</p>

<p>If the background lighting varies a lot, experiment with center weighted and spot metering.<br>

Good luck...</p>

[hughes]

<p>Mahmud<br>

I hope you get the manual I sent you. Dan had some good advice use AFC and toggle the focus point so it is on the face it takes practice but it will work. The 80-200mm is the perfect lens for your purpose and I think at this level you will be able to move around freely. I would use a shutter speed of at least 1/1000 but don't be afraid of using the lens wide open there is very little point in having a 2.8 lens and shooting it at 5.6. One thing with small kids it is important to get down to their level shoot sitting down if need be. Good luck it should be fun... </p><div></div>

[ilmilco]

<p>I would suggest to use a monopod with the 80-200 ..... for me it is a great help and does not cost so much .....it increases the sharpness in my pictures noticeable (forgive my english, i am not native english speaking)</p>

[richard_lewis3]

<p>M<br />I've used the 80-200 f2.8 AFS from it's introduction for a great variety of sports shooting, from kids soccer to college rugby and most things in-between. It's still used in preference over the 70-200 VR for many situations since it vignettes less, and I think you'll find this a great lens for anything within it's focal length range. With the D300 it responses instantly to AF and, depending on whether your sample varies from mine, will provide excellent images even wide open, with superb subject isolation and bokeh at f2.8 to f4. However if you can keep the shutter speed at least at 1/250 or above, then I'd suggest stopping down to f4-f5.6 if you don't need maximum subject isolation. With the D300, you'll be able to shoot at ISO's from 200-800 with minimal noise, and even 1600 if needed, with only slightly more degradation. So you can bump the ISO to achieve the maximum shutter speed possible and still keep everything else equal. If you can, I'd suggest shooting at 1/1000th or faster for any real action.</p>

<p>As for framing, many beginning sports shooters frame too large, resulting in the subject taking up too little of the frame. It's OK to frame "tight" and to include only part of the subject, if it provides the maximum impact for the moment's action. The above image of the two girls and soccer ball is a good example of excellent framing. It includes both subjects and the ball, which defines the sport and the moment. But it doesn't include any excess around the subjects.</p>

<p>Just remember, many of the best sports images capture not only the action, but the expression of the moment. One of the best ones from the Super Bowl images on The Frame shows Hines Ward smiling as he catches a pass in the first quarter. If it's the one he caught on the very first play, then no wonder he's smiling! Here's a link to it from Rob Galbraith's website:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.sacbee.com/static/weblogs/photos/2009/02/019144.html#more">http://www.sacbee.com/static/weblogs/photos/2009/02/019144.html#more</a></p>

<p>The above image is 4th in the sequence. Notice how so many of these superb images include an expression that defines the moment, and in many cases includes only the upper torso of the athlete(s). Another one is Larry Fitzgerald's expression in the fifth image from the bottom. These are true examples where a picture is worth 1000 words!</p>

<p>Continuing with equipment recommendations, the suggestion to use a monopod is also a good one. It will provide enough additional stability to make a real difference in your results, yet shouldn't be much of an impediment to your movement, whether shooting or moving through the crowd. If I have to move any distance, I just compact it and sling it over my shoulder with the lens hanging down over my back. Easier to keep track of it that way unless I'm in a tight crowd. Then I hold it against my chest with the lens over my shoulder parallel to the ground. Either way works fine and it's easy to get ready to shoot again. Just remember, if it's extended, keep it vertically along your side when you're moving so it doesn't stick out and hit someone! It will also be a real advantage if you decide to use a TC with this lens. But if you do, I'd restrict it to the Nikkor TC14EII, and perhaps the TC17Eii, but not the TC20EII. You'll see too much degradation of the image quality with the TC20, and you may find the TC17 too difficult to handle with fast moving action. But the TC14 should work well for you, but only use it if you need the extended range.</p>

<p>Finally, the suggestion to take along your shorter zoom is very good. You'll most likely want some images that show the entire "sweep" of the event, and for that a wide angle is needed. And depending on how close you're able to approach the action, the shorter range may be good. But I'd guess most of the time you'll be better served with the 80-200 range, since in most outdoor sports shooting (assuming this is outdoor!) longer is better. Contrary to others comments about this lens being too long for their events, if you are shooting tight enough for the best images, you're unlikely to be inside this lenses range for more than random moments with outdoor sports action, unless you're lucky enough to be at a spot like right beside the goal in soccer. But then you'll miss all the other action on the rest of the field and will likely be moving along the sideline much of the time. That's why a shorter zoom is great to have along, to be able to choose whichever suits the moment. And remember, there will be lots of moments ahead as the kids grow up. Just be sure to take advantage of as many of them as possible! Good luck!</p>

[mahmud_javid]

<p>Thank you all for your help. Richard, Dan and Steve for their detailed suggestions. Steve for sending the manual as well!<br>

MJ</p>