a._j._jacobs Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 <p>Hello all!<br> I was just trying to do some still life shots, when I noticed that when I'm shooting in "M" I get a thick black band on the bottom of my photos. First thought was "oh great my camera is broken". However I tested it in all the other modes and I only have this problem in Manual mode. Anyone have any idea what this is or how to fix it? I'm attaching a photo of what I'm talking about.<br> Thanks in advance for your help/advice!</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_himmelright Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 <p>did you use an external flash? is your shutter speed set faster than the camera's synch speed?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bueh Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 <p>EXIF shows 1/400 sec, which is well above flash sync speed (unless you use a high-speed sync external flash unit). Why were you using "M" and not "Av"?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a._j._jacobs Posted January 29, 2009 Author Share Posted January 29, 2009 <p>I'm using a Speedlite 430ex II and an AB800 unit sync'd to my camera with a cord. I was using "M" to be fully manual. So is it a problem of my shutter speed? I'll test that out.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a._j._jacobs Posted January 29, 2009 Author Share Posted January 29, 2009 <p>You are correct, it was the shutter speed, I just tried it lower at 1/80 and no band. I'm still a rookie with the correct camera settings with my external flash unit. Whew, glad I didn't break anything! :) Thanks you guys!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bueh Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 <p>Back to reading the manual, I guess.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a._j._jacobs Posted January 29, 2009 Author Share Posted January 29, 2009 <p>The manual actually doesn't talk about external flash units, except for a small section not involving camera settings. I'll stick to the trial and error method, thanks!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjscharp Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Maximum flash sync on the XSi is 1/200. Don't go faster than that and you'll be fine. No need to experiment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_munzel Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 <p>FWIW, if you stick with just the 430EXII in your camera's hotshoe and don't use the AB strobe and turn on high-speed sync on your flash, you would not be limited to the x-sync of 1/200. For indoors shooting you're better off with the AB hooked up, but if you're shooting outdoors, especially at wider apertures, your 430EXII would make a nice fill flash but you'd need to enable HSS to get a fast enough shutter speed.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a._j._jacobs Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 <p>Thanks guys. I was just messing around in my "studio" with some still-lifes and my lighting. I'd never experienced anything like that, and being new with the studio lighting it got confusing. I'll remember the 1/200 "rule" for future reference. :)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 <p>Once we all had to worry about these things, back before "automatic" flashes, and the like. We had to set our cameras to some pokey speed like 1/50th of a second (often marked with an X on the speed dial), and calculate the aperture from the distance and guide number.<br> What's a <em>guide number</em> , you ask? Just be glad you don't have to worry about it. But just remember, "Manual" means you have to do it <strong><em>all</em> </strong> , so you either need to use automatic or you do need to figure it out.....<br> Whatever Jason says.... Geez, I sure hope the 430 flash I just bought comes with a manual. GNs were maybe no more difficult than keeping track of the functions available. ;)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bueh Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 <p>Don't worry, JDM, I have one and I can explain it all to you!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 <p>Thanks, Bueh. My last flash pictures were with a Nikkormat EL and a Rollei flash about 30 years ago. After that, I just used faster film. So you may need to explain <em>this</em> to me, just as you occasionally have at other times. ;)<br /> Stimulated by my incomprehension of Jason's post, I did go to the big-bookstore-on-the net and bought a Speedlite book, maybe that will help :p<br> The same might be suggested to the OP.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a._j._jacobs Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 <p>I think everyone is confused. I <b>know</b> how to use the flash, just not the AlienBee Unit lol. I've had it less than a month and have never used strobe lighting before, so that's my issue. So if anything I need a book on those :) I don't know though, the trial and error (and asking you guys) method seems to be working...lol!:)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bueh Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 <p>Jason's post was crystal-clear: High-speed sync rules and provides the capability for (fill) flash at all speeds (at vastly reduced power). A lot of my portrait shots use this feature -- aperture wide open, outdoor daylight and just a hint of fill flash despite the fast shutter speeds.</p> <p>You don't really need a book for understanding the EX Speedlites, the bible is <a href="http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/">right here</a> on the net. Be warned: you will notice odd light metering/auto exposure results with dedicated flashes (i.e., sudden changes in shutter speeds when switching on a flash unit). It is a feature and cannot be turned off (and it will lead to underexposed pictures). It's called NEVEC (negative evaluative exposure compensation).</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 <p>Well, a book can't hurt, although I appreciate the link.This is going to be like starting all over again for me.</p> <p>I'm quite sure that Jason's post was clear to those who knew, for example, that <em>HSS</em> was "High-speed Sync". If you didn't know that and I didn't, then not so clear. HSS was not a problem with my Nikkormat and the Rollei flash. ;)<br> I think there's plenty of "confusion" to go around for all participants here.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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